FIXED GE Profile Oven F7 error messages

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Powerman

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
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9
Location
Missouri
Removing touchpanel

There are basically two versions of touchpanels. After the screws are removed, the panel can be removed by one of the following means:

1. Swing the panel out from the bottom. There are pivots on the top edge. If it resists swinging out, go to option 2.

2. Push up on the bottom of the touchpanel. There are slotted "keyholes" inside the top of the panel.

Hope this helps you get in to try my fix for the F7 problem. Good Luck,
Please let me know how it works at hutchipop@yahoo.com
Regards,
Charlie
 

mcsheffrey

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
2
Location
Ottawa, ON
I have a GE Profile range/oven but the setup on the control panel seems to be a little different from what has been described here. Instead of 3 screws in the front, each end has a screw holding down a plastic endcap. Unscrewing these allows me to pull the endcap back far enough to remove another screw that is under each end. After getting this far though, I can't figure out what is still holding the panel on.

Has anyone seen this variation?

Thanks,

Grant
 

Powerman

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
9
Location
Missouri
Removing your touch panel

Hi Grant,
There are several possible variations with your model number. It represents a family of different units. The easiest way to find out is to go to Appliancepartspros.com. They have a very good system to identify parts and show how they are interconnected. Simply put in your model number, i.e. JKP56 and you will shown a series of parts diagrams. Click on the one that looks like your oven touch panel and it will be enlarged. You will then be able to see how these parts are arranged and connected to each other. If you have a problem, let me know the complete model number for your range. It will usually be on a metal tag on the left inside edge of your oven. You need to open the door to find the tag. You can email me directly at hutchipop@yahoo.com. Good luck.
Powerman
 

mcsheffrey

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
2
Location
Ottawa, ON
Thanks so much for your help, the diagrams on the website were very helpful. The model that I have is JGBP86 (the number is actually found on the frame after opening the bottom storage drawer).

For anyone else with a similar model, this is how I gained access to the panel:

To open the control panel I actually needed to pull out a pair of plastic tabs that were found at the bottom of the plastic endcaps (at the sides of the . Pulling them out isn't easy, but you can pull back the surrounding plastic as much as possible and then insert a flathead screwdriver to pop out the tabs (I accidentally broke one of them, but it's not really visible). Once that's done, the panel still doesn't open easily, but the main impediment is a pair of overlapping metal tabs at the bottom front of the panel. Grabbing the front of the panel at the left and right and pulling down and out should be able to free them. From here just a little jiggling around and a little elbow grease should be enough to flip the panel upwards (but hold on to make sure it doesn't fall off completely).

So far, Charlie's index card trick is doing the job. Again, thanks for all the help.
 

Afitz

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2007
Messages
1
Location
Nevada
Dreaded F7 error code fixed

Last weekend we were confronted with the dreaded F7 error code on our GE Profile JTP56 double oven. :mad: The really annoying beeps finally required us to turn off the breaker for the oven. Because we had recently received the recall notice for the GE Profile dishwasher (to be repaired next week), I decided to check the internet to see if there also was a recall on the oven. Eventually I found my way to this site and I have to give a big THANK YOU to everyone, especially Powerman for his fix and Jake for posting it. :)

Yesterday we took the panel off and inserted the paper as instructed. When we turned the power back on the ovens returned to normal operation. Last night I used one for fixing dinner and then turned on the other one this morning. Both are working normally. Yeaaa!

The only change to Powerman's instruction (thanks for the photos - they helped a lot) was that we removed three white connector plugs that were at the top center area of the panel. It was very obvious which was which but we marked them with a black pen to make sure each got put back in the correct socket. By doing this we were able to tip the panel out a full 90 degrees which made it much easier to work on the fix. For some reason on our oven these wires from these connectors were secured at the back so we could not tip it out far enough.

Anyway, this forum saved us a lot time, money, and hassle. Thanks to all of you for helping!

AFitz
 

elvisandbabs

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2007
Messages
2
Location
California
On my JKP56, the power on the contol panel went out this morning. After turning on and off at the breaker box, the panel lights came back on, but are much dimmer than usual. There appears to be a short or power loss somewhere. I tried the F7 fix, but it doesn't seem to be working. Any other ideas? One blogger suggested it might be a power problem at the breaker instead of at the control panel? If I need to call a service tech, do I call someone for the stove or an electrician for the breaker panel? Thanks for any thoughts...
 

Powerman

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
9
Location
Missouri
elvisandbabs

While it is always difficult to diagnose problems like this at a distance, here are my suggestions.

1. There is a problem with the power source. The heating elements in an oven are energized at 240 volts. The control is energized at 120 volts.
The typical method of getting the 120 volt supply is from one leg of the 240 volt source and neutral or ground. If the ground at the power source develops a problem, you will get voltage fluctuations in the 120 volt source. Typically you will notice this in other lights in the house. If you notice changes in the lighting in one room while switching the lights in another room, there is a problem with the system ground. In this case, call an electrician.
2. If you do not see this kind of variation, the problem is in the power supply of the electronic control. In this case, call an appliance technician.
 

elvisandbabs

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2007
Messages
2
Location
California
Power

Thanks for the quick response. We do notice fluctuations when the heat or air conditioning kick in, but not when we turn lights on in one place or another. It sounds like I should start with an electrician. Does it help to know that this oven is 10 yrs old?
 

Powerman

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
9
Location
Missouri
elvisandbabs

Hi,
Lights dimming with the furnace or air conditioner is normal. So, I would start with the appliance technician rather than an electrician.
Good Luck
 

G.B.

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Messages
6
Location
MA
JTP56CODICC - GE Porfile Double Wall Oven - Error(F7)

I too have been shot in the foot once again by the shotty designs of the appliance
companies. I have already had issues with my Sharp microwave display and my Kitchenaid
dishwasher control module. This oven issue has been an issue for me for better than a
year now. I have been removing the ribbon cable to clean and re-set it then cycle the
power. This usually fixes the problem for a few weeks or a even few months. I too am a EE
but have had limited time to spend on it and did not purchase the control board or the
module since I am not convinced it is a permanent fix. I also wounder if the panel
sitting above the door has something to do with the failures. I have been asking my wife
use the lower oven to reduce the heating effects on the panel and module. I'd like to
know your fix if you could be kind enough to share it.
 

Powerman

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
9
Location
Missouri
Dreaded F7 Problem Solution

Hi Everyone,
I have had folks say they could not open the link to my solution. Well, is my face red because I made a mistake in listing the link. Here is the correct link:
http://www.applianceblog.com/manuals/Dreaded_F7_Problem.pdf

Alternatively you can go to either of the following links:
http://www.fixya.com/howto/h155060-dreaded_f7_error
http://fp1.centurytel.net/Powerman/Dreaded F7 Problem.pdf

I am happy to report that as of October 6, 2008 I have helped over 2000 unhappy GE customers who have experienced the F7 problem.
Please let me know if my fix works for you too. You can email me at:
hutchipop@yahoo.com
Regards,
Charlie Popeck, P.E.
Consulting Engineer
 

baz00ka

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
1
Location
Southern California
Powerman: Well I was a skeptic but followed your directions. I wasn't able to insert the paper as far into "box" as I would have liked. Nonetheless, it's been working perfectly for three weeks now. My hat is off to you! Many Thanks
 

donrb

Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
1
Location
Atlanta, GA
Another satisfied fixer

Powerman gets my "Wins The Internets" vote for the day.

Fix worked like a charm.

Not completely out of the woods yet, but I'm going to put the oven through a clean cycle to see what comes out on the other end. Haven't used the oven for around two months. Put off the fix even though I've known about it for six weeks. Should have done it the day I found the link. So simple!

Seriously, took less than 10 min to complete and most of that time was spent finding and cutting down the right piece of paper.

Thanks again. Much appreciated for sharing your knowledge.
 

reelstuff

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2010
Messages
1
Location
USA
Thank you so much Powerman, the fix is in, folks, Man that just saved me over 500 bucks, the estimate from the parts replacer, to fix the problem, the Fix, worked instantly, after years, of trouble, and hundreds of dollars in repairs, from repair companies, the fix that worked, may have cost, about 20 cents, in supplies.

We were thinking about just replacing both units, upper and lower, at a cost of over 4 thousand bucks, wow, is all I can say, God bless you Powerman, may you live long and prosper...
 

kaoweb

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
1
Location
Henderson, Nevada
Thank you, Powerman!!!

I also want to extend my thanks to Powerman. The solution works beautifully for my oven too! Before the fix, the problem is so consistent that F7 will appear persistently after I plug in the power to my oven. Now it is gone. Material cost: a slice of paper, 0 cents.

Thank you, Powerman, again.
 

austin_n

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Austin
I tried the paper trick and still got the error code. I'll unplug the cable and see if the error comes back. If it does then a new ERC may be in the works (ouch :() .
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
102,195
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, keep us posted, and post your model# of your range/oven for the ERC that goes on your model.

Jake
 

austin_n

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
7
Location
Austin
My model number is the JT912B0F1BB single wall oven. It’s about 8 years old.

This morning I awoke to the F7 error again. I pulled the cable out of the controller and re-powered the unit. The clock is flashing but so far no F7 code. Is the flashing clock an indicator the cable is unplugged?


Ahh an update! After I hit submit the thing started to beep! Let me go read the code.... F0 now. I believe that is also a button stuck error. Looks like a controller is in my future. Anyone sell these cheap?
 
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