FIXED GE Profile Oven F7 error messages

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Jake

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Here is a test to find out whether its your control panel or control board:

Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

From what you posted sounds like the Key Panel is bad.

You can order a new Key Panel here: Manufacturer's Number: WB36T10549


Jake
 

austin_n

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I'll try to be more clear. Sorry if It was confusing.

1. Oven powered on and F7 shown. Unresponsive buttons but often could reset the oven with a clear/off button.

2. Oven light would turn on and off automatically without any input

3. Wait long enough the F7 error comes back on (perhaps an hour).

4. Powered unit off - unplugged the ribbon cable then powered back on. The clock started to flash the time. I waited significantly longer than the 32 seconds as indicated. The clock was flashing yet no error code was shown. If I waited about ten minutes I got an F0 error code. Remember the ribbon cable is just floating there and not hooked up the whole time.

5. Powered off and hooked up ribbon cable again. When the cable was hooked up I would get the F7 error and unresponsive front panel. Sometimes I could clear it and it would work just fine. Seemed to be very erratic as I had it on and normal for almost an hour before I got the error code again and the symptoms. The oven light would mysteriously turn on and off once more.

The oven has the paper insulation trick applied so I don't think it's the push button panel. Since it shows a stuck button (F0) yet there is not even a connection to the buttons that says controller. Do you agree?

Best I could find the controller and it changes to number WB27T10800

This look right?
 
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Jake

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austin_n

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Oh noooo.... I ordered a ERC unit this afternoon. Now it sounds like it could still be the keypad. That darn keypad is expensive. I can return the ERC if it's not been installed so I should probably order the keypad and try that one first. If it works I can return the ERC unopened for refund.

What's the chances both will be bad? Not likely. I think your right it's probably an intermittent keypad.
 

Jake

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What's the chances both will be bad? Not likely.
Exactly, not likely.

Yes, just order the Key Panel and install that first, and don't open your ERC and you can return that for a refund back to Sears if the Key Panel fixes it, which I'm almost 100% sure it will.

Jake
 

austin_n

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Finally got the keypad ordered. The timer is stitting here but will not install it until I can try the new keypad with the old timer. If it works then I'll return the still boxed up timer.

Shame the paper insulation trick would not work on my keypad. :(

Worst case If the new keypad still acts the same as the one I have then I already have the timer and can try to return the keypad assembly. Should know in a couple of days.
 

Jake

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Ok, keep us posted.

Jake
 

austin_n

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Got the new front panel installed and fired it up. No more code (about 30 minutes so far!). The old panel would give a code in a couple of minutes. Just glad it wasn't the control timer board. Now I need to return that part (didn't even open the box so should be good to go). You guys saved me several hundred bucks. Too bad the paper trick wouldn't work for my panel as that could have been a real cheap fix! I plan to take the old panel apart and take some photos of it to find the place where it was shorted out internally. I have a feeling it was the key for the light. That is the one button that gets a workout with four kids in the house! Got to see the cookies baking after all!
 

Jake

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Glad the new control panel fixed it.:)

Yes, that paper trick has been working on most all, but some it won't work on, don't know why.

Jake
 

juxcallmebob

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Greetings All,

I am having the F7 error message issue and want to perform Powerman's fix posted here and...sorry for my two left thumbs - but I can't figure out for the life of me how to remove the dang control panel. I unscrewed four screws that at the top right underneath the panel when you open the oven door but I can't seem to budge or pop it out. I really don't see any other screws that I need to take out. I tried pushing the casing around the panel up, down, sideways and pulling it out but it is not budging. Please can anybody help me out. It is driving me nuts and I really want to have a functioning oven again. Any help will be greatly appreciated. The model I have is the GE JKP15 oven.

Thanks,
Bob
 

juxcallmebob

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Hi Jake,

Thanks for responding. The full model number is JKP15WOW1WW.

And I also apologize for the bad grammer in my previous post. Let me restate part of it...I removed the four screws located at the top of the oven that is underneath the panel and is visible when you open the oven door. I can't seem to budge or pop it out. I really don't see any other screws that I need to take out. I tried pushing the casing around the panel - up, down, sideways and pulling it out but it is not moving.

Thanks,
Bob
 

austin_n

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For mine I unscrewed the three screws under the control panel. These screws were only visible with the door open and looking up. The screw driver is vertical when installing and removing. Hopefully yours is similar. They were 1/4" hex head plastic type screws.

Once the screws were removed then I pulled the bottom section forward slightly and then lifted the entire panel upwards. The panel pivots on a lip at the top front. If it's tight a slight tap with the side of your fist may be required but it actually came off easy for me.

Oh just make sure the oven power is removed PRIOR to doing any of this. You will expose all the power wires and it's NOT something I would attempt with power on. :3:
 

juxcallmebob

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Hi Guys,

I removed the four allen type screws and didn't even notice the two hex screws. Thanks for that extra bit of info Austin. Once I removed those vertical hex screws, I was able to open the panel and put in a thick piece of paper between the ribbons. The oven has been on for over an hour now and no beeping noise yet :) Hopefully that did the trick and I can finally start using the oven again without any issues. Thanks for all the help on the forum.

Bob
 

Jake

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Sounds good Bob.:)

Thanks Austin for assisting him.:)

Jake
 

jober

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I have had the problem too. The first time it was the control panel and after replacing it every thing ran fine for a long time. But then it came back. This time it's the key pad. I can see the ribbon cable is degrading inside the plastic so I think it's a new key pad for me. If I could get the key pad apart I could see or test but it seems to be glued together. It would be nice if I could replace the plastic printed cable with something like an EIED or SCSI cable. LOL
 

Jake

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Yes, that would be nice if you could.

Whats the model# of yours?

Jake
 

JOHARE

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Virginia
F7 Error Code

Joel - unfortunately it sounds like the Powerman is maxed out with business. Can you tell me what steps he told you to take? You can be powerman 2! Or if anyone else knows what the steps are, I would greatly appreciate it. I just bought a house and have been inundated with appliance issues $$$$$. Thanks!
 

Fitz46

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Panel fix if Powerman's post-it idea fails 1st

I tried Powerman's fix that worked for so many others (the post-it paper in the slot trick). It worked for a few hours then the beeping started again.

I tried to get a new control panel, BUT for my model GE Profile Oven, there are no replacement panels available in any color. So I figured I was going to have to buy a new oven and, with nothing to lose, decided to try to repair the panel, proceeding as follows:

1) take off the panel from the oven, unplugging the ribbon cable. Then CAREFULLY pry back the front plastic face layer of the panel (it has a sticky backing), using a small flat putty knife to get it started, and starting from the end closest to the ribbon cable. Pry it back far enough to uncover the ribbon cable where it goes through the metal slot, and then go about another inch.

2) Go slowly to avoid badly de-laminating the face. A little de-lamination is OK, because it will stick back together at the end.

3) Then tape paper on the ribbon cable in a small place where all its conductors are not insulated. You'll see what I mean if you get this far - this is the design fault with this cable, the conductors are not fully insulated in small inside section near the slot. If I had been able to push the post-it paper far enough in, then Powerman's fix would have worked, but I couldn't with mine, as the paper would jam inside before it went far enough. I had to get the panel apart to fully uncover the uninsulated section.

4) Tape paper on the opposite side of the ribbon cable, too, just to be safe, although only 1 side has the uninsulated conductors.

5) With that done, press the plastic face back in place. It will stick. Reinstall in oven and test.

It's been over 1 month, all oven functions work 100% with NO beeping!
 

hodee

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Houston,Tx
F7 Code on GE

I have a F7 error code on my GE Profile Oven/stove Model JS905SOK1SS
Any ideas on how to remove the panel to insert the "paper fix?" Thanks.
This one has the glass top cooking surface and plastic end caps. I only see (4) quarter inch screws from the bottom of the panel but the panel never budged. How do I get the panel out?
 
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