• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)
  • Important Announcement

    It's with sad news to announce that our site owner, Jake, has passed away. You can read the details here.

GE Profile PDS22SBSARSS Refrigerator will not cool


Premium Member
Nov 19, 2022
Melfort, Saskatchewan, Canada
Model Number
More than 10 years
Our GE Profile Refrigerator will not cool, both the freezer and fridge compartment. The condenser and the circulating fans both run. The settings read room temperatures, when set for colder the new settings show up, "0" and "34" but the green "Set" LEDs do not remain lit and both return to current temperatures of 69 +. I removed the back panel, the compressor is not running.

Tested the starter relay and appeared to be ok, but had a burnt smell to it, so I replaced it. Also replaced the startup capacitor. But compressor still does not run. When plugged in and unplugged you can hear the motherboard click to turn and off.

No signs of anything burnt on the PCB. Removed the PCB where the controls are and again no sign of burnt markings anywhere. So, at the start of all this I tested the compressor across the pins and got readings of 7.8, 4, 3.8 ohms. Days later, after receiving the new parts and installing them and still getting no operating compressor, I retested the compressor and got 0.01, 0, and 0 ohms for readings. Did I kill the compressor some how? the only other thing I can think of is reversing the wires on the startup rely, but I'm pretty sure I replaced them the way I removed them, but you never know.

Would this hurt anything if I switched the Pink and the blue wires? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Hi, Take a voltage reading where Rick(aka @rickgburton) mentions in this post:

Here's the motherboard for your model you can order, if needed:
WR55X10943 Refrigerator Main Control Board

Would this hurt anything if I switched the Pink and the blue wires? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Looking at the compressor start relay--->Blue goes on the right side of the compressor start relay. Pink goes on the left side.
Hi Jake , Thank you for your assistance. I tested the voltage across Pin 7 neutral and J 8 Compressor and get a reading of 114 volts. Any other thoughts what it could be? Just to clarify the wiring on the start relay I attached a pic. Thanks again for the help.


  • 20221121_073448.jpg
    199.8 KB · Views: 48
The motherboard is sending proper voltage, and you already replace the compressor start relay.

Is the compressor humming or trying to start at all?

Did you ohm test the new compressor start relay first to see if it's bad? Just unplug the refrigerator and remove the compressor start relay then ohm the two parallel holes in it, you should have 0-12 ohms, if you get no reading then its bad.

Here's your compressor start relay below, you can see the two parallel holes in it.

WR07X10086 Ptc Relay

Rick made this diagram that shows how to ohm test both the compressor start relay and overload:
Compressor Test  1 (1).jpg

If both ohm test good--->Your compressor is the problem.
Last edited:
Good morning Jake,
Tested the new start relay and got a reading of 5.6 ohms. The compressor does not hum, vibrate or make any sign of trying to start, totally quiet. Just for kicks and giggles I retested the compressor and now I get readings again, 7.3, 4.0 and 3.7 ohms, weird...What's also bewildering to me is the control panel. Why would the green LED's not stay lit up when it's set to the cold settings?... The current inside temp is only displayed. see pic attached.


  • 20221122_074236.jpg
    159.3 KB · Views: 48
That's a good question, but I don't know, never seen one do that before.

Hopefully another tech or member that has, can shed some light on it for us.
In your pic of the wiring on the relay is that upside down or does it mount on the comp that way as some do?
In your pic of the wiring on the relay is that upside down or does it mount on the comp that way as some do?
This is the way it mounts on the compressor with the protector below. Jake said the blue wire to go on the right side so I made sure this was how I reassembled it. Should I try switching it??
So I reversed the wires as if they were upside down and it has made no difference. Compressor doesn't make any noise, or vibration or clicking and yet the ohm meter says it checks out. Is there anything else that I could check? My wife is getting a little frustrated with me as we have been using totes in our garage as a fridge. I really didn't want to have to replace the whole fridge.
Ok, through process of elimination, if the compressor start device and overload both ohm test good, and your getting 120 volts to the compressor and it won't start, then the compressor is the problem.

It would cost more to replace the compressor than what the refrigerator is worth at the age of your refrigerator.

Normal life of refrigerators is only 8-12 years now, so it would be more wise to go refrigerator shopping. You don't have to buy a expensive refrigerator with all the bells and whistles, just a basic low or medium line refrigerator.
Glad to help!

Users who are viewing this thread

Support Our Site

If you feel that you have benefited from this site, and would like to show your appreciation, please consider making a donation.