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GE Refrigerator GYE22HMKBES dispenser control stopped working. no lights inside

spikey

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
deerfield beach
Model Number
GYE22HMKBES
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
the ice/water/temp control on the dispenser board stopped working. i was told by your team the board was bad so i ordered a new board but did not fix the problem. your team then had me check for voltage and there is not voltage on the blk/pink wire coming into the board. now i have a new board but still does not work. schematic was sent to me. there are no lights inside refrigerator. i may have shorted.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
134,257
Location
Redmond, Oregon
LOL, I don't know what you mean by TEAM.

Your last thread we helped you fix a cooling problem not a dispenser problem:

Its Rick, Jeff, Dan, and Myself here at our site. You must have been at another site for the dispenser problem, but it was not here my friend.:)

So, we don't have a clue of which control board you replaced, what is the part number of the control board you replaced?

Jake
 

spikey

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
deerfield beach
oh thought it was applianceproparts. anyway emailed with amy, about dispenser issue. see attached. dispenser controls stopped working. no lights and no functions. now the fridge does not cool or even turn on.
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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We don't work for AppliancePartsPros, we just refer people to them to order parts.:)

You possibly shorted out the main control board in the back of the machine since its not cooling now either. Did you circuit breaker in your home breaker box first to see if it might have tripped your breaker to your wall outlet the refrigerator is on?

On the main control board in the back of your refrigerator you can check for 120 volts across J1-3 to J1-6 that's the main power coming into the machine.

Here's the main control board for your model:

And for the no power to the dispenser board, the door board controls that.

Here's the door board for your model:

Jake
 

spikey

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
deerfield beach
no tripped breaker i think your correct about shorting the main board. no lights inside fridge either. sorry for the mistaken identity......appliancepartspros told me to buy the wrong board. so the door board is on the top left adjacent to the hinge? i'll check the voltage as you pointed out tomorrow and let you know
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
134,257
Location
Redmond, Oregon

spikey

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
deerfield beach
jake, i checked j1-3 to j1-6 and do have 119.25 volts. so do i need the main board? do i also need the door board? do i also need the board i already have? see attached photo of invoice.
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
134,257
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Redmond, Oregon
Yes, you will need the main control board and the door board.

do i also need the board i already have
That I don't know, just hold on to it. You can put the original board back in and see if you need it.

Remember ALWAYS unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet before replacing any and all boards.:)

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
134,257
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Redmond, Oregon
Your welcome, keep us posted.

Jake
 

spikey

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
deerfield beach
installed the the main board and fridge is running. i like that. installed the door board and the board behind the dispenser and still do not have functions or lights on the display. no ice, water, temperature controls ect. hopefully the fridge cools overnight. i now have 3 brand new boards but still no dispenser functions or lights.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Redmond, Oregon
Check these voltages with your meter set on DC Volts.

On the door board:
J3-17(red wire) +12 Volts DC
J3-18(blue green wire) COMM

At the dispenser board:
J2-6(black pink wire) +12 Volts DC
J2-2(blue wire) COMM

2021-06-14.png
 

spikey

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
deerfield beach
do you have a schematic showing the door board,
On the door board:
J3-17(red wire) +12 Volts DC
J3-18(blue green wire) COMM

there is no wire slack that allows me to get to the connectors without removing the board then check the wiring coming in.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Redmond, Oregon
I posted the schematic above, that's the same one AppliancePartsPros sent you too.

there is no wire slack that allows me to get to the connectors without removing the board then check the wiring coming in.
Just put the RED meter lead into J3-17 and put BLACK meter lead in J3-18 and see if you get 12 volts DC.

If you meter leads are too thick, use the Safety Pin trick Rick posted.
safety pin 500x250.jpg
 

spikey

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
deerfield beach
good tip. if i only had a safety pin. also the schematic i mentioned (on the right) shows the connections to the main board not the door board
 

spikey

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
deerfield beach
i noticed this broken plastic hinge cover awhile back but never thought much about it until i removed and saw the cover moving when i open the left door. could it be this damaged the wire going to the dispenser board?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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I saw the video--->Oh my goodness yes, there is probably broken wires inside the wire harness loom.

You will need to cut that wire harness loom off the wire harness and look for broken wires.

Jake
 

spikey

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Messages
28
Location
deerfield beach
i apologize for bugging you again but i want make sure before cutting anything. the picture shows the black/pink going into a heat shrink and as you see the tip of the heat shrink is torn a little. it looks like it goes to this connection then to the hinge screw and then to the dispenser board. what type of connection is that, a butt splice? when i unplug the connector shown and plug it back in i hear the flapper, i think, close.
 

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