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FIXED GE Refrigerator PFSS2MJYCSS - Refrigerator not cooling enough

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Miami

Premium Member
Joined
May 1, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Miami Florida
Model Number
PFSS2MJYCSS
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
I’ve searched and can’t figure this out. Frig runs continuously since it can’t get to set temp on fresh food. The compressor / and fan run and clean. Evap fan in freezer runs And is not frozen up. There is a little frost on it, but nothing crazy. The control door that lets cold air into fresh food section is open, I took it off in the picture. The airflow seems low coming out the bottom, but I have no reference. Resistors for fan, a little discolored, see picture. I only see one one Evap fan on the schematics and that one is running. Is there another fan back there ? Can someone point me in the right direction. There’s a parts place close by that’s actually open on the weekend, so I’d like to try and save my food today.
 

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Update if anyone cares. I think I’ve tracked it down to the damper assembly or a temp sensor. All of the voltages on the motors checked good. Could still be the board. It’s cooling for now, and not running continuously. Anyone know how to run the diagnostics on the temp controller. I pushed all four cool/warmer and get 0/0 1/0 0/1 1/1 choices.
thus is some sort of test mode but no sure what.
 

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This is a very odd problem, another member was having this same issue here:

Do what Rick mentions to do.

Jake
 
I replaced the board and everything seems normal for now. I’m a little concerned that whatever damaged the board might do it again. I think that resistor that was near the discolored area is the evap fan. I’ll keep throwing parts at it until I can give up and call a tech. ;)
No more zeros, don’t know if it was the board or it fixed itself when the power was off for several hours.
 
Yes, those resistors are for the evaporator fan motor, so Its best to replace the evaporator fan motor too before those resistors burn out on the new motherboard.

Here's the evaporator fan motor for your model you can order:
ge-motor-dc-evap-wr60x10277-ap4367334_01_m.jpg


Look here:

Jake
 
Ok, sounds good.:)

Jake
 
I swapped it out. But now my display says 36 degrees in fresh food 11 freezer. The freezer is really zero and the fresh food 43 measured. I checked the thermistors again get 16.5 omh and 32 -35 ohm on the freezer and evap. So they look good. The display doesn’t seem to change so I might have a bad display board. Never ends.
 
You will need a Priest and Holy Water for this one my friend.:)

Just kidding!

Give it 24 hours to it to stabilize.:)

Jake
 
I’ll leave it alone and see what happens.
Ok, replacing the board was the solution. Keeps temp in refrigerator now. I’ll recap in case someone needs this later.
This is 2008 GE profile French Door refrig. Issue was refrigerator 10-20 degrees from set temp.
There’s only one evap and evap fan in the freezer, a door opens to allow cold air into fresh food section. Not complicated. Evap fan worked evap was not frozen up. The board was discolored at the evap motor resister (see pic from first post). The evap fan worked and I’m not sure if this had anything to do with it. I did replace the evap fan but that wasn’t causing the problem. Gotta be careful not to go down a rabbit hole with these things. ;)
The tech manual has a set of codes to test a few things. First I tested the thermistors , science term for temperature sensor. The test is done by holding down various buttons and getting codes back. They all came back P - past test. That really only test if the circuit is complete. I ran an ohm meter test on the board. Details are in this forum. They all read correct. The electro-mechanical door aka plenum could have caused this but it was operating when commanded by temp. Last possible thing was the board. Replaced, fixed. It did take several hours for the temp to stabilize, and not reinstalling the back cover for the evap fan access delayed the refrig from cooling since it needs to sorta be sealed to push air up into the frig.
Hope this helps someone.
 
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