GE Wall Oven JRP15WW3WW Not working, oven started throwing multiple error codes after the self-cleaning

[pqcracker]

Model Number

JRP15WW3WW

Brand

GE

Age

More than 10 years

Greetings,

I am helping my neighbor repair her GE JRP15WW3WW wall oven. It was manufactured in 1998, and from what my neighbor tells me, it probably hasn't worked for the past decade, possibly longer. She indicated that the oven started throwing multiple error codes after she used the self-cleaning feature, but she doesn't remember what the codes were.

My initial research on the JRP15 series of ovens made me aware that there are several design issues with this oven that make it prone to malfunction. Before I started doing any troubleshooting, I noticed that the control board had burn marks in a few places, so I assumed that it probably had issues, so I sent it off to a repair shop for testing and refurbishment. The repair shop indicated that there was one stuck relay but replaced all of them to ensure that we wouldn't have any immediate trouble due to one of the older relays on the board failing. They re-flowed solder joints and performed a functional test and returned the control panel back to me.

I reinstalled the control panel and powered the oven back on and everything seemed to be working okay. Both heating elements were working and the locking door latch engaged when I started the self cleaning cycle, but I noticed that the cooing fan located in the back of the control panel compartment never started. I knew that couldn't be normal, so I attempted to do some actual troubleshooting, rather than just throwing new hardware at it.

The first thing I tested was the fan itself. The resistance across the fan terminals when disconnected was 0 ohms, which I knew wasn't right, so I removed the fan and connected 120v AC directly to the fan. No response, so I ordered a new fan. I tested the new fan before installing it and it powered up successfully, so I installed it back into the oven and heated the oven to 350 F. I expected the fan to start but it still didn't, so I tested the two Therm-o-disc bimetal limit switches. When disconnected from the oven, they were showing continuity in reverse of what I was expecting. So I ordered replacements, despite the fact that one of them is no longer available from GE. Upon receiving them, I tested them for continuity and they both tested as expected.

At this point I am ready to reinstall the limit switches, but when I removed them to test, I neglected to note the order of the wires and the position of the limit switches.

I don't know enough about how these limit switches work, but I'm assuming the order of the 2 wires matter. There is a magenta dot on one of the limit switches and a yellow one on the other, but I don't remember whether the dots were facing left or facing right.

Can anyone provide a picture from a similar oven to show the correct placement of the limit switches and the wires that are attached to them? I reviewed the schematic, but I got confused and didn't want to take a chance of hooking things up incorrectly and potentially creating more problems than I fixed.

Any help anyone can offer would be appreciated tremendously. In case anyone is wondering, I have, indeed, learned my lesson about the importance of taking pictures before disassembling anything. My memory is decent, but not good enough. I did snap some photos of the control module wiring before I sent it off for repair, so I'm certain it is wired the same way it was before I sent it off the repair.

Thank you so much!

 

[bigbuck]

This tech sheet should help you out.

 

[pqcracker]

Thank you for providing this. It is definitely helpful, though I couldn't determine from the wiring diagram if the limit switches need to be connected in a specific way. I understand that this is an AC system, so polarity isn't an issue, but is there a specific pin designated as Vin or Vout? I searched for documentation on the Sensience website (redirected from thermodisc.com) but I couldn't find anything that discusses whether each of the connection terminals has a specific function.

Is the positioning of the colored dot painted on the limit switch significant?

My apologies if these questions show my lack of expertise in this area. I have been trying to learn as much as I can on my own, but there are still some things I can't figure out on my own.

I appreciate your reply and I am hopeful you might be able to guide me just a little bit further, or perhaps point me in the direction where I can educate myself.

 

[bigbuck]

It does not matter were the wires go on the thermal fan switch as long as they came from that same switch! Remember the fan thermal switch is normally open when testing with an ohmmeter. Closes at 135 degrees F.

 

[pqcracker]

Thank you very much for your reply. Even though I was careless and didn't properly note the order of the wires, I do remember the color of the dot painted on each of the limit switches. The new limit switches I have obtained are testing as expected, meaning the one for the fan (magenta dot) is normally open and the other one (yellow dot) is normally closed. I was able to verify that the wires going to the fan limit switch are, indeed, the correct ones.

I will hopefully be able to test everything out within the next day or two. I am feeling pretty good about this and I greatly appreciate your help!

I will report back on how things go after I test everything.

Thank you again!