FIXED GE Washer GTW680BSJ5WS Lid Switch

[Wheelman]

Model Number

GTW680BSJ5WS

Brand

GE

Age

1-5 years

My GE top load washer currently will not complete a cycle, and it's throwing an error code 23 (Critical Lid Lock) after attempting a cycle.

Some backstory: The washer previously developed an issue with the lid switch, but I figured out that a screwdriver inserted just right into the lid switch assembly would get it to sense that the lid was closed and it would run. I tolerated using the screwdriver trick for a while, but I wanted a permanent fix without replacing any parts. Before reading the wisdom in the following post, https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/gtw680bsj5ws-washer-does-not-start.68955/, I followed guidance from other sources to attempt to jump the lid switch and bypass the silly lid lock mechanism. I jumped terminals 2 and 3, as shown in the wiring schematic, and now it won't run a cycle. I fear that I've damaged something more significant due to my ignorance.

The machine turns on and appears to operate normally until a cycle is started. In Field Service Mode, running test 13 to test the lid switch shows that the switch still functions as the machine toggles between open and closed (spin & rinse LEDs). Continuity of the wiring assembly also appears to be OK when tested with a multimeter. When a cycle is started, it sprays water into the basin as normal, attempts to lock the lid (which appears to be normal), then approximately 52 seconds pass by and "End" scrolls across the screen. I'm not sure how to proceed troubleshooting from here.

Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide.

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Just replace the lid switch assembly and that should fix it, even if you shorted out your control board when you jumped it, you'd still need to replace the lid switch at any rate. So start with the less expensive part first.

Here's the lid switch assembly for your model:
WH01X27954 Lid Lock Quick Release


Jake

 

[Wheelman]

I will likely end up replacing the lid switch, but it appears that the machine still detects that the lid is either open or closed with the existing lid switch assembly. Would it be possible to describe how to check if I shorted out the control board?

Edit: Rather, is it possible to check the board without a new lid switch?

 

[Jake]

Here's the control board for your model:

GE WH22X29345 Ui & Control Board RX231 (AP6978443) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Ui & control board rx231 WH22X29345 / AP6978443 made by GE

click.linksynergy.com

Rick explains it here in this thread:

FIXED - GTW680BPL0DG GE top load HE washer - getting error code 23.

My 2.5 yr old washer stopped finishing wash cycle. Would not spin clothes dry and would power off before completing the cycle. I ran the service mode tests and found that all tests pass except the spin test. During the spin test, I get the error code 23. The test starts with the 2 sprays of...

www.applianceblog.com

Read post #17 and post #21 of Ricks posts there.

Jake

 

[Wheelman]

Between red and violet, it reads approximately 102 VAC regardless of lid position. Same between red and yellow when the lid is open (reads zero when lid is closed). Machine unplugged, I am not given a resistance reading between red & violet when the lid is closed or open. When the lid is closed, between red & yellow reads 76 ohms.

 

[Jake]

The approximate resistance of the lock coil is 70 ohms from red-violet at the J513 control board connector.

So if your getting nothing on your meter from red-violet that means your lid switch assembly is the bad part.

Jake

 

[Wheelman]

Alright! That's great news if that's all that's wrong. Do you see any indication that the board might also be fried?

 

[Jake]

Nope!

Let us know how it goes after you replace the lid switch assembly.

Jake

 

[Wheelman]

The new switch arrived and I installed it. The machine does nothing different - same symptoms as my original post.

 

[Wheelman]

Following replacement of the switch, between yellow and violet now reads approximately 100 VAC only when the lid is closed. Between red and violet now reads approximately 100 VAC when the lid is closed and open. Between red and yellow reads 100 VAC when the lid is open.

Machine unplugged, I am still not given a resistance reading between red & violet when the lid is closed or open. When the lid is closed, between red & yellow now reads 72 ohms.

 

[Wheelman]

Same error code 23 as well

 

[Jake]

Then it has to be the control board, that's the only part left, so you must of shorted it out too. That's why I always tell folks do NOT try to bypass these newer style lid switches.

Jake

 

[Wheelman]

Is Training Bulletin TB10-17 (dated July 2017) applicable here? It's referenced in post #17 in the thread you sent. TB10-17 calls for a different personality number than the Technical Service Guide from May 2016 (6 vs 2, respectively).

Edit: My machine currently reads a personality number of 6.

Edit 2: It will not allow a modification to personality number 2. Once the new control board arrives, will a personality number need to be programmed?

 

[Jake]

Your model number says its suppose to be in personality 6.

This is your model number GTW680**J5 and higher.

The new control board will come with instructions to program it.

Jake

 

[Wheelman]

The machine runs now following replacement of the control board. Thanks for your help. I hope others find this thread and understand that attempting to jump the lid lock mechanism is not advisable.

 

[Jake]

Excellent Wheelman, glad to hear the new control board fixed it.

Thanks for the update!

Yes, you are absolutely right, on these new electronic washers jumping the lid switch is not something that can be done anymore, on the old non-electronic washers it was very easy.

Jake