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FIXED GE Washer S3700E1WW Occasionally Fails to spin

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Premium Member
Apr 18, 2021
Mississippi, United States
Model Number
More than 10 years
I have a GE S3700 that runs normally except that occasionally it will fail to spin. When it fails to spin there is a clear odor from the motor that seems to indicate that it is hot and has been sitting in a locked rotor condition. Today I was fortunate enough to catch the washer when it was in the non-spinning condition and I opened the lid to the machine to see what it was actually doing. When I did, the tub of the machine rocked back as if the motor had been applying power but something was preventing the tub from spinning. I then reached in and gave the tub a bit of a spin (it did not feel bound up in any way) by hand and closed the lid. After closing the lid, the machine ran through the rest of the spin cycle without any issues. It then ran through another load without incident.

The transmission in the unit was replaced in 2014 and the motor was replaced sometime before that. What should I be looking for as a possible issue with this machine?

Added complete model number
Last edited by a moderator:
Your missing a digit in your model number. Read it from the model number tag under the lid.

Here's the results I get:


Now, check your motor for burnt wiring connectors where the electrical plugs into it.

If that's ok, then: Take the belt off the motor and transmission pulleys then run it in the spin cycle and see if the motor runs just by-itself. If the motor does not run with the belt off, then your motor is bad again.

Here's the motor for your model you can order:
GE WH20X10019 2 Spd Clutchless Motor


No burned connectors. But, some of the windings in the motor look a bit toasty like the enamel coating on the windings has been toasted/blackened. Since we were running a little laundry this morning I just observed what the machine did during a normal wash run and it went through both of the spin cycles like a champ. Though I do have to say the spin seemed to be a touch slower than I recall it being before. Of course, that could be my perception since I have no way to actually verify spin RPM and the clothes did seem to be properly spun dry.

Any further suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated.
Ok, then this problem is intermittent. And intermittent problems are hardest to nail down until fails everytime.:)

So, next time it fails to spin, do what I mentioned above.:)

Yep, very intermittent. Fails maybe one out of a hundred times. I knew it was going to be a pain.

Could this be a situation where the start capacitor is getting dried out or weak? In the area where I usually deal with them; they are either good or bad. But, I don't know if that is accurate when you scale up and you're running/starting appliance motors with them.
Thanks for the info. I actually just went ahead and ordered the cap.

After thinking about it the instance that I observed yesterday seemed to seal the deal as far as the actual failure. The motor ran the spin cycle fine with a light load where it had previously failed with a heavy load. The motor was clearly producing power when it failed to spin as the tub rocked backwards when the lid was opened and the lid switch cut power to the motor. And in other instances when there was a failure the motor smelled hot which means that it was getting power and some if not all of the windings in the motor are intact and conducting power. The hot smell being from the fact that the motor was in a locked rotor condition and pulling tons of extra current and generating a ton of extra heat. I'm actually a bit surprised that the thermal cut out in the motor did not kick in and cut power to the motor.

I'll let you know what happens when I replace the cap. It should be here Saturday as I ordered from Amazon. They had a much better price and the part is identical to the one in the link you posted. Actually appears to be coming straight from GE. Not a 100% guarantee on that - you know Amazon.

Thanks again.
I don't trust amazon when it comes to appliance parts.

amazon does not monitor where parts come from there, like AppliancePartsPros and RepairClinic does.

The reason is China is flooding the market with cheap knock offs. They may or may not say OEM on the parts but it doesn't make it so. China distributors even pay people to give good reviews.

The package can look original from GE but still be from China. Lots of counterfeit parts come from China.

Standard Shipping at RepairClinic usually only take a couple days.

I know about Amazon. Not my favorite company to do business with. But, I buy a lot there because I literally can not go anywhere locally to acquire the same products. As far as the cap - it is sold on the Amazon GE store, described as an OEM part, and at least the photo is of the legit article. If I get something different; Amazon will hear about it.

Got it, thanks!

Keep us posted.

Quick follow up - The part came in as advertised this past Saturday. After a bit of tinkering with the original mounting I got the old one out and the new one in. A quick empty test run confirmed that the machine cranked up and motivated in the spin cycle much quicker than I can recall it doing for many years. Took the old cap and threw my trusty DVOM on it and it is indeed bad. It read in the low 100kohm range in one direction and in the very low Mohm range the other direction.

Thanks for all your help.
Excellent, glad to hear the new capacitor fixed it.(y)

Thanks for the update!

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