• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

FIXED GEQ9800LW1 Whirlpool Dryer Belt Slipping/Squealing Noise

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
Model Number
GEQ9800LW1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
Hi folks. I have a Whirlpool dryer (model #: GEQ9800LW1 that is making some horrific squealing noise. Take a listen to the attached. It sounds like the belt is slipping on the drum somehow. This started when I took the dryer apart to replace the thermal fuse and has been gradually getting worse. I replaced the belt, rollers, and most recently the idler pulley spring to no effect. I'm at my wits end but don't want to give up on the dryer. HELP!! Thx.
 

Attachments

  • Whirlpool Dryer Belt Slipping Noise_Excrpt.mp3
    708.6 KB · Views: 0

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,503
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Where did you buy the parts at? The reason I'm asking is another MEMBER bought these same parts on amazon AS aftermarket parts, and that's what was causing this same noise on his after he replaced these same parts.

You MUST USE OEM parts for this model.

Here it is:
4392067 Dryer Repair Kit


Jake
 

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
I think I got the package from RepairClinic.com. I think they’re reputable and realistically I don’t think the parts they replaced were the problem as the rollers and spring seemed fine. I figured maybe the original belt (also a replacement from some years before) had gotten a bit stretched bu I bet it’s fine as well.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,503
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, but you said it wasn't making this noise before you replaced the thermal fuse.

Take the machine apart again and see what's going on.

To me it sounds like possibly the belt is not on the idler pulley properly.

Jake
 

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
Correct. However, I only replaced the thermal fuse at that point. Since then, it’s had the problem and I’ve taken it apart and put it back together at least 3 times (rollers and belt, greasing the roller spindles, idler pulley spring, etc).
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,503
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Take is apart again, and remove the belt from the idler pulley and the motor pulley, then start the dryer and see if it sounds normal with just the motor and blower wheel turning.


Jake
 

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
Trouble is that the auto-shutoff trigger needs to be depressed by the idler arm to allow the motor to run. I had already taken it apart and cleaned up and wd40 a few things and put it back together when I saw your response so it’s tough to get back there with the front piece on. How would you force down that trigger/switch?
 

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
Correction: the shutoff trigger has to be NOT depressed which is allowed by the tension on the arm from the belt around the drum. I successfully propped the idler arm in the up position and ran the motor. To my intense surprise, the slipping squealing sound is coming from the motor, not the belt at all!! Thanks for getting me this far. Can’t imagine where to go next.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,503
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, yes then its either the blower wheel is stripping out or the motor itself is bad.

Here's the motor for your model:
279787 Dryer Drive Motor


Watch this video, its shows you how to get access to the blower wheel:


Jake
 

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
Very frustrating!! I can spin the blower wheel all day...it will not come out of the housing/off its spindle or whatever. It must be stripped in some way. I’ve secured the motor pulley to isolate the blower wheel but it’s not coming detached from the shaft.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,503
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, its likely stripped on the motor shaft, seen that happen many times on my service calls.

The blower has left hand threads so if you have a sharp drill bit drilling in the center might spin it off the motor shaft. Put a pair of vise grips on the motor shaft by the belt pulley to hold it. I've had to break every one that I had with that problem. You only need to break it by that aluminum piece. Once the plastic blower comes off that piece you can probably take it off by hand.

Here's the blower wheel for your model:


Jake
 

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
I’ve tried to pull the wheel toward me while spinning it clockwise...no joy. It just spins and is extremely wobbly. I’m tempted to break, chisel, or saw it off (with hole drilling attachment) but would like to be able to get a new blower wheel on the shaft. Perhaps it’s hopeless at this point given the wear on the motor bearing and motor itself probably.
 

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
Not sure how drilling in the center will spin the wheel off the shaft. Drilling is breaking through that center piece a bit but having no effect on the wheel. Is the aluminum center piece of the wheel what is actually screwed onto the shaft? Would I be able to fit a new blower wheel on it if I work to break the current wheel off?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,503
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
Well, that wasn’t fun, but between drilling it a bit and finishing it off with an angle grinder and chisel (ok, kinda went overboard a bit)...I got the bitch off. Trouble is, the original center aluminum or whatever piece is still threaded on. Got some wd40 in there. Hopefully between that and a vise grip, it’ll come off.
67171160-86E2-4FF0-A7B0-8C7E4F64C02B.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 140DD3D5-E139-41C1-A2E9-88B9121522A9.jpeg
    140DD3D5-E139-41C1-A2E9-88B9121522A9.jpeg
    501.2 KB · Views: 12

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,503
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Well, that wasn’t fun, but between drilling it a bit and finishing it off with an angle grinder and chisel (ok, kinda went overboard a bit)...I got the bitch off.
Excellent, good job.(y) Yes I've had to break many off the same way in the LAST 34 years for my customers.

Trouble is, the original center aluminum or whatever piece is still threaded on. Got some wd40 in there. Hopefully between that and a vise grip, it’ll come off.
Yes, it should now come off.

Jake
 

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
Is the entire piece that’s highly visible in the picture what should come off or only the very end bit (you can see there’s a small gap between a front piece of the “nut” or piece on the shaft and what could be the remainder of the blower wheel “nut” or perhaps is actually part of the shaft itself)? I assume it’s all the centerpiece of the wheel given the appearance is so similar (shiny metal presumably aluminum).
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,503
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
The nut and all should unscrew off the motor shaft.

Jake
 

whirlwind0

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2021
Messages
13
Location
Orlando, FL
Cannot get that damned thing off. Won’t budge. Tried some heat, wd40, impact from hammer via wood block to the nut...perhaps need a better lubricant.
 

Dan O.

Appliance Tech
Staff member
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
4,207
Location
Ontario, Canada
You did see Jakes reply:

The blower has left hand threads

Which means you have to turn it the opposite way you would a jar lid, to remove it.


If it still won't budge, you could try cutting through it partially then chiseling the rest apart. Do try to avoid damaging the threads underneath though.

JMO

Dan O.
 
Top