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GERC4110PQ1 Whirlpool convection oven lower heating element

Konaman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Calgary Alberta
Model Number
GERC4110PQ1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
More than 10 years
Whirlpool convection oven model GERC4110PQ1 - is it possible there is no lower heating element, I had the back off and there are no obvious wires routed to a lower element , just to the upper and to the element around the convection fan?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
111,944
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, you have a hidden lower bake element on your model. It's a bit tricky on this model to get to it. Is it not heating in the BAKE cycle?

If that's the case, check the hidden lower bake element just to make sure you don't have a loose connection causing this. UNPLUG YOUR RANGE FIRST before you do this.

Unplug your range first!

Read turbo's post#5 here: FIXED: GR478LXPB1 Whirlpool Oven Hidden Bake Element Replacement?

This heating element is accessed from the left side of the range(When standing behind your range). The parts drawings are misleading, making you think that it can be accessed from below -- not so!

Remove the left side panel from the range by removing screws on back edge, and bottom center on the inside. Slide the panel forward to release from tabs on the front edge, then pull out and off.

Separate the insulation that hides the terminals and access cover for the element., then remove one screw at the rear edge of this panel, and slide it toward the rear, then pull out.

Before disassembling the side, you can check to verify that the element is burned out by removing the rear panel and doing a continuity check on the wires leading to this element from the rear of the range. The wires should be a salmon or pink color with high temperature insulation.

Here's the hidden lower bake element for your model:
Bake Element WP9755770


Here's the video that shows you how to test it:


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Konaman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Calgary Alberta
Thanks I will check, I did look for additional leads to a lower element but did not see any, only the element around the convection fan and the upper broiler element. But I will check again, maybe I will need to remove the side panel to see it, thanks.
 

Konaman

Premium Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Calgary Alberta
Also it is heating but not always getting up to temp or holding temp. I also checked the resistance of the temp sensor which measured 1080 ohms. Hoping it’s not the control circuit as I see that is an expensive part. The oven is 14 years old.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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But I will check again, maybe I will need to remove the side panel to see it
You will.:)

Jake
 

Konaman

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Apr 1, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Calgary Alberta
I accessed the leads checked for continuity and had a reading of 28 ohms which according to the video is ok , not sure what else I can check. Unfortunately just might be the main control assembly. There are no faults indicating when I check the service codes.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Ok, then your lower heating element is good.

Did you ohm test your thermal fuse? if that is blown it will never heat period.:)

You will need a multimeter to ohm test your thermal fuse first for continuity.

Pull your range out from the wall, then unplug it, then take off the back access panel and your thermal fuse will be in view, take both wires off of it before ohm testing it.

Here's the thermal fuse for your model:
Thermal Fuse WP3196548


HOW TO access/ohm test Videos included in part link.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Jake

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Ok, then you'd need to take a voltage reading at the bake element terminals and check for 240 volts when its on BAKE. If your not comfortable doing that you'll need a tech to come out and do it for you.

Jake
 

Konaman

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Apr 1, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Calgary Alberta
Ok not sure about doing that, as long as I am careful touching probe of meter to leads shouldn’t be a problem, right? And assume I should be reading approx. 240 V or is it stepped down? And if it isn’t reading 240 what would that mean , a control problem?
 

Jake

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Yes, touch each meter probe to each bake element terminal at the same time while its on BAKE 350 and you should get 240 volts.

Make sure you touch nothing else and you will be safe, and make sure you disconnect power to the unit when you are done testing.

Yes, the problem would be the appliance manager control board, but its no longer available:

Jake
 

Konaman

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Messages
11
Location
Calgary Alberta
I finally pulled it all apart and metered the connections going to the lower element with Bake on and had a zero reading (should have been 240) , I then tried reading the Failure / Error display codes and read AM71UI44EEWET107 but none of these letters or numbers showed up in the Failure error list (all started with an F0 or F1, etc then an E then a number from 0 to 8), any idea what they might mean?
 

Konaman

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Location
Calgary Alberta
Oh the other item I read in the Tech Sheets was something about a lower oven sensor but I could not find one , only the main oven sensor in the upper corner and it metered fine (1080)
 

Jake

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Ok, then that indicates the problem would be the appliance manager control board.

Jake
 

Konaman

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Apr 1, 2020
Messages
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Location
Calgary Alberta
Thanks for your help Jake, guess we are in the market for a new one. Any suggestions? We plan on moving in a year or two and will probably leave it behind(so don't want to spend a lot), other appliances are white and my wife does a fair amount of cooking and baking.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana.:)

Jake
 

Jake

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Thanks You Too!

Jake
 
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