• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

GEW9260PW1 Whirlpool Duet Electric Dryer blowing thermal fuses

MarylandGuy

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
4
Location
Maryland
Model Number
GEW9260PW1
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Electric Whirlpool Duet dryer stopped working.

1. Determined the Thermal Fuse was faulty and replaced it. While replacing the fuse, I inspected and cleaned the hot air passages. I started at the intake area around the electric coils and followed it through to the blower wheel and then to the pipe on the underside of the dryer leading to the flexible pipe on the back. Nothing was clogged. The dryer is located next to an external wall, so the flexible pipe is only about three feet long and clear. The plate on the outside wall did have some buildup, but is clear now.

2. After replacing the thermal fuse, the dryer worked again. The first load I attempted to dry was a large load of towels. The dryer stopped shortly afterwards due to the Thermal Fuse blowing again. I also noticed when I opened the door to the dryer, inside the drum was very hot. Much hotter than it normally would be.

3. I replaced the thermal fuse again, but I also replaced the (Thermostat, Internal-Bias) which is located next to the Thermal Fuse. I also checked the electric coils to be sure they were in good shape and not grounded against the cabinet or heat shield. Everything looked fine and there was no grounding.

4. After the repair, I attempted to dry another load of clothes, but the Thermal Fuse went out again. The dryer ran for about ten minutes and then stopped. The clothes were still wet.

5. I have now pulled out the High Limit Thermostat. I tested it cold with my multi-meter and I received a steady tone. I heated it up in a frying pan on the stove and I did hear a click and the tone stopped. I pulled it out of the frying pan and about ten seconds later it clicked again and the tone came back on the multi-meter.

6. I did not have a thermometer to measure the temp in the frying pan. I determined the High Limit Thermostat is functioning, but whether it was cutting off at the right temp is a question mark. I also don't have a thermometer to check the exhaust temperature, but I strongly suspect the dryer is heating the air too high and that is what is causing the Thermal Fuse to go bad.

My gut feeling is the High Limit Thermostat is faulty from what I have read. But I am reluctant to replace it before I know if it's the culprit. The cost is around $50. Is there anything else I may be missing?

In addition, a few months ago, the dryer stopped sensing the moisture level inside the drum. It would stop on a heavy load of wet clothes about 20 minutes in. If I turned the dryer back on, it would go for another 20 minutes and stop again. The clothes would be dryer, but still damp. Can I assume the moisture sensor is bad?

Thank you!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
118,156
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
You are replacing the thermal fuse that's on the blower wheel housing correct?

If so, you have a thermistor right next to it on the blower wheel housing, its not a cycling thermostat, Internal-Bias as you mentioned above.

Unplug the dryer and take the wires off of it and ohm test it, that thermistor should read about 10K ohms (10,000) ohms at room temperature.

Here's the thermistor for your model you can order if needed:
Thermistor WP8577274


If the thermistor is good, The heater relay being stuck closed can make the heater stay on all the time, and cause this overheating problem too.

Unplug your dryer then look on the control board and you will see a black relay marked HEATER, Ohm the 2 terminals on that and see if you get continuity.

Here's the control board for your model you can order:
Whirlpool WP8546219 Control Board


Jake
 

MarylandGuy

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
4
Location
Maryland
Thanks Jake,

Let me start by saying I have very little understanding of a multimeter. I have a Sperry DM-5300.

Yes, I am replacing the thermal fuse on the blower wheel housing.

Yes, the thermistor is next to the thermal fuse and I did replace that. I wasn't sure if the old one was bad, but replaced it anyway.
Original thermistor: 12.73 (multimeter set at 20K in the ohms section)
Replacement thermistor currently installed: 14.36 (multimeter set at 20K in the ohms section)

I went to the control board and found a small black box labeled Heater. I disconnected the red and black wire and checked for continuity which I assume means setting the multimeter to the tone feature. I did get
 

MarylandGuy

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
4
Location
Maryland
I went to the control board and found a small black box labeled Heater. I disconnected the red and black wire and checked for continuity which I assume means setting the multimeter to the tone feature. I did get a tone showing continuity.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
118,156
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, then that's the problem, the heater relay on the control board is stuck closed, meaning the heater is always ON.:)

Order and replace the control board and you'll be back in business.:)

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
118,156
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Sounds good, keep us posted.:)

Jake
 
Top