• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

GFE28HMHFES GE fridge cooling issue

Tedclarknomad@g

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2022
Messages
2
Location
Arlington
Model Number
GFE28HMHFES
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
GFE28HMHFES

Compressor question.

Refrigerator was purchased in 2016.

About 2 weeks ago we noticed the fresh food compartment was getting warm and the freezer compartment was getting warm. We removed all the food and took all the plastic partitions out to get to the fresh fruit evaporator and the freezer evaporator. We noticed the fresh food evaporator had no frost on it. The freezer evaporator had just a little bit of frost on it. Only frost at the very top like on the 1st winding of tubing. All fans are working fine. The only thing that is suspicious is the compressor. When I 1st pulled out the refrigerator to work on the compressor was extremely hot. You could not touch it or you burn your finger.

I perform the ohm's check on the compressor all that worked out OK. I replaced starter relay cap all works fine. When the compressor is running it's completely cold on the high pressure side and it's completely cold on the low pressure side. I even evacuated the system and put in a service port on the high and low side of the compressor. Just pumping air it can pump up to 50PSI and then you can let the air out and it will pump it backup to 50 psi.

When fully charged with R134A the low side reads 0PSI and the high side reads a 100 PSI. If I turn the condenser fan off while the compressor's running the high side will start to get hot. But yet absolutely no r134a whatsoever is reaching either evaporator. I replace the filter dryer and remove the 3 wave valve.

While I had the system open I ran air through the high side up into the evaporators and back through the liquid capillary line. I verified there was no sealed system restriction to the evaporators because air was pouring out both capillary tubes.

My question is is there any reliable way to test a compressor short of just replacing it. Is it possible to have a compressor that the windings check out resistance vals OK, and the compressor starts and runs but basically there's some kind of internal mechanical fault with the compressor and it's not generating enough pressure to drive the R134A through the capillary lines to the evaporator.

Any thoughts on this matter greatly appreciated.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Here's the compressor for your model:

Is it possible to have a compressor that the windings check out resistance vals OK, and the compressor starts and runs but basically there's some kind of internal mechanical fault with the compressor and it's not generating enough pressure to drive the R134A through the capillary lines to the evaporator.
You are absolutely correct.

You can also do an amp meter test, sounds like the compressor is trying to pull too many amps, thus its getting the compressor super hot.

You will want to take an amp reading on the wires to the compressor , if the compressor is running above 3 amps all the time, then your compressor is on its last legs.

I use a clamp style amp meter.

You'd need an clamp style amp meter. Like this one here: Craftsman Digital Clamp-On Ammeter

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
132,461
Location
Redmond, Oregon
Anytime!

Jake
 
If you feel that you have benefited from this site, and would like to show your appreciation.
Top