GFE29HSDASS fridge not cooling enough, freezer fine after replacing evap fan

[Bustedfridge01]

Model Number

GFE29HSDASS

Brand

GE

Age

6-10 years

Very curious issue going on.

Found my fridge to be 61 degrees after returning from a long weekend away. Diagnosed and replaced the evap fan, and within maybe 8 hours the temperature dropped to 37 degrees and I went to bed thinking the problem was solved.

The next morning the fridge was at 42 degrees, and since then it has been hovering between 39-44 degrees, even though it's set at 35.

The repair tech who came out was very surprised the evap fan didn't solve the problem. He recommended replacing either the thermistors in the fresh food section or the control board. With the cost, I'll probably start with thermistors, unless anyone else has had this exact issue?

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Sounds like you got a defective fresh food evaporator fan motor. I've replaced many of these for this same problem on my service calls, and never get a call back.

Here's the refrigerator evaporator fan motor for your model:
Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor WR60X26866


--->To verify it, you can use a multimeter test to see if its getting proper voltage to it from the motherboard. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall, then you will see a cover over the motherboard, just remove that cover.

--->J6 Pin 2 and Pin 4

--->Pin 2=12 volts DC +
--->Pin 4=12 volts DC -

--->Put your meter on DC volts, then put the RED meter lead on Pin 2, put the BLACK meter lead on Pin 4 and you should get 12 volts DC.

At the electrical connector at the FF(Fresh Food) Fan motor inside the Fresh Food(Refrigerator) section, when the FF Fan is NOT running:
RED to BLACK - 12 VOLTS DC CONSTANTLY

If you get 12 VOLTS DC CONSTANTLY when it should be running and its not running, then that fan motor is bad.

Let us know how it goes.

Jake

 

[Bustedfridge01]

Are you able to verify the conditions under which the evap fan should be operating?

Because sometimes I can open the door and see the fan turning, other times when I open the door it isn't. This is of course with the actual temperature above the set temperature. Should the fan be running at all times when below the set temp?

 

[Jake]

Are you able to verify the conditions under which the evap fan should be operating?

Yes, while the compressor and condenser fan motor in the back of the refrigerator are running, that Fresh Food evaporator fan motor should be running too.

In fact while the Fresh Food temperatures are warmer than normal, that fan should be running at all times.

Like I mentioned, a multimeter is your best friend to VERIFY if the problem is that fan motor the tech. installed, it could be faulty.

Jake

 

[Bustedfridge01]

Okay, have an update for future readers.

I tested the fan, and it read 13.5 volts DC constant when running, and showed no power when not running. Since I was unsure why it was running intermittently, I asked the repair tech if they would give me a new fan, and they did, and I installed the second replacement.

Same issues.

I then did some more digging and doing out about diagnostic mode. (No idea why the tech didn't mention this. I did all repairs and called him only after the problem wasn't resolved.)

I put the fridge into diagnostic mode and checked the temperature on the FF thermistor with code 24. It read 35 degrees, though the actual temp was 40.

I have replaced the FF thermistor at the top of the fridge. Unfortunately my harbor freight multimeter isn't reading the resistance on the old one so I'll have to update with results in a few hours.

 

[Bustedfridge01]

After replacing the FF thermistor at the top of the fridge, the same issue persists. The fridge cools to about 39 degrees, then hovers between 40-45.

The thermistor is now reading the correct temp in diagnostic mode.

I suppose the next step is to test the control board. Is there a way to do that?

 

[Jake]

That's very odd, then it has to be a faulty motherboard, that's the only part left that controls the temperature. There is no way to test it though, just through process of elimination, which you've already done.

Here's the motherboard for your model:

GE WR55X37006 Refrigerator Main Control Board (AP7002960) - AppliancePartsPros.com

This is a refrigerator main control board, which manages various components of the refrigerator, including the compressor and fans. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the correct temperature.If multiple components in the refrigerator do not appear to be working...

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

[Bustedfridge01]

Well, I had to wait awhile for the new control board to arrive.

While waiting, I noticed the fridge would get to temp (34F) and would hold for several hours, but occasionally I'd find the fridge at 40-42 degrees.

So I replaced the control board. The same symptoms persist.

Any other suggestions? Do you have a repair manual that includes fault codes and diagnostic codes for this model?

 

[Jake]

That's very strange, that control board should of fixed it.

I did locate the fault codes sheet(mini-manual), I'm attaching it below.

 

[Steve007]

Did you figure out what the problem was? I am having the same issue. Unplug and it works fine. Then refrigerator starts warming up but the display continues to read 37 which is inaccurate

 

[Jake]

Yes, I'm curious too, what was the final outcome @Bustedfridge01 ?

Jake