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GFSF6KKXABB GE French Door Refrigerator - Temps in freezer will not keep things frozen

JLH

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
Model Number
GFSF6KKXABB
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
First it started off that the fridge had water underneath the pull out drawers. Did a google search and found out the drain in the fridge section was stopped up. I took cover off the in the back (inside fridge) and it was frozen up, got it all thawed out and made sure drain was open. Everything rocked along fine, for a couple months, then it happened again. Same problem, then temps in freezer would not keep things frozen. I have done the same repair several times over this last yr and the fridge always starts cooling again but the freezer still does not work. The last time I did this, the ice maker quit working (located in fridge, top left). I'm guessing there is also a fan and condenser coil for the freezer, but I have no where it is located. Also, now not sure if fan motor in the fridge is running. I don't have one of those meters to test things and if I did, not sure how to use one. I don't mind tinkering with things, just not very knowledgeable about stuff like this ( I spent to many years in a firehall ) instead of hanging out with repair guys :( Any help would sure be appreciated .

Jim
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
JLH said:
I don't have one of those meters to test things and if I did, not sure how to use one.
Hi Jim, It boils down to this; Without a DMM the best you can do is start replacing parts in hopes one will fix it. That will get very expensive, very fast. The DMM's are not expensive and are fairly easy to use. They also come in handy for a lot more than just appliance repair. Look on the back wall of the freezer section for any frost build up. You may need to use your hand to feel for any frost. That's where the evaporator and evaporator fan motor is located. Make sure the fan is working. Also make sure the condensor fan motor by the compressor is working. If the compressor is running so should the condensor fan motor.
This DMM has everything you need and more. It's a good deal for under $25. Read post #50 here: FIXED Frigidaire Mini Refrigerator Defrost Timer Replacement Help 483212 UET120 DBYC903BL - Page 5 You will also find a handy manual I attached to that post
Digital Multimeter DM10T
Digital-Multimeter-DM10T-01816679.jpg
 

JLH

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
Thank you for your quick reply Rick, I sure didn't expect it to quickly. I am inserting a picture of a meter I think might work for the job, but I know nothing about it's use. If this will work, I will google to see how to use it, then we can proceed to check things out in what ever order you suggest. Once again, thank you.

jimvoltmeter.jpg
 

rickgburton

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Yes, that will work. The manual in the other post will show you haw to use it. For now just check the other things from my last post to see if they are working.
 

JLH

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
Thanks Rick for trying to help me out. It froze up again, defrosted it. I think I found the defrost thermostat, (black round on the left side of the coil but it does not clip on the coil as all the video's I have watched suggested):When testing the thermostat, I used water and I have no working freezer. It merely had two little pop in things that held it to the coil. I tested for continuity and it went up pretty high on the meter (working in Oms). I then checked continuity on the heater thing and it too had continuity. Fridge was not plugged in while testing heater since I was only checking continuity, is that correct.
I have a shoulder problem (frozen shoulder or messed up rotator cuff), not sure which yet. Just got a doc appt. Anyway, it is impossible to raise my arm into certain positions so doing things as I can. Any other suggestions ?
 

JLH

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Joined
Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
I also took the Asm Temp Sensor out and placed in ice water for 5 minutes. Tried continuity test on it and meter stayed on 1, there was no change. I have no idea if that means anything or not. ?
 

JLH

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Joined
Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
Thank you sir, I reckon since it doesn't have continuity that is the problem, or have I missed some other reason?
 

JLH

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Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
Part has been ordered, should be here on the 15th. I will follow up to let you know if it worked or not, thank you again for your help :)
 

rickgburton

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Take the thermistor out and place it in a small glass of crushed ice and just enough water to cover it for 5 minutes. It should measure 13.2K ohms at 32*F.
 

JLH

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Joined
Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
I did that and it stay at 1, the other parts I tested changed significantly higher. I was using the setting of 200 ohms. Wondering if that would have anything to do with the freezer portion not working and the ice maker also. It will be awhile before I can lay on the ground and tear into the freezer looking for a problem there.
 

rickgburton

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I was using the setting of 200 ohms.
Troubleshooting this model GE refrigerator which was manufactured by Samsung is very difficult at best for someone that knows how to use test equipment. Take some time and learn how the DMM works. K=1,000 13.2K ohms = 13,200 ohms at 32*F.
 

JLH

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Jun 19, 2015
Messages
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Location
TN
Ut oh, guess I screwed up then :( Done ordered the part, so guess I will replace it.
 

rickgburton

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If you ordered it from a link on this site you can return it for a full refund less shipping. This model refrigerator is a royal pain to diagnose. It's poorly designed (Samsung). If it was any other machine besides this one I could probably walk you through the testing. But because it is the Samsung model I don't think I can. If you're unable to read the meter correctly or measure resistance we could end up replacing a lot of parts unnecessarily and it could take a long time. It might be to your advantage to have a tech come and diagnose the problem for you.
 

JLH

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Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
I so wish I could afford to have that done, unfortunately, that is not in the cards at this time. Retirement is nice but the pay could be better, but hey, the roof don't leak and my belly stays full, so I am not complaining :). Part should come today (yes I ordered from the link). I will change it out to see if it makes a difference. :) I will report back in about 3 weeks as it takes about that long for it to freeze back up.
 

rickgburton

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Your machine has two evaporators, one in the freezer and one in the fresh food section. Each evaporator has a defrost heater and an over temperature thermostat and a thermistor. If the evaporator (either section) is frosting up, the defrost system is not working. Since the freezer is not cold enough the problem is most likely with the freezer defrost system. When the evaporator builds up with frost the evaporator fan can't circulate the air across the coils and back into the freezer. The result is poor cooling in that section. The defrost system consists of a defrost heater, a thermistor and the main control board. The over temperature thermostat is more of a safety device that will open at 140*F should the heater stick on. If the heater shows continuity and the thermistor resistance checks good the problem is in the main control board. The freezer evaporator is located in the freezer behind the freezer section back wall.
GFSF6.jpg


Snapshot_8.jpg
If the control panel for your machine looks like this, it may be possible to check the defrost system using the diagnostic test mode. First try this: Unplug the machine for one minute. Upon initial power up, if certain failed components have been detected, individual segments of a particular
figure “8” will flash to indicate the failed components.
PFSF6N 002.jpegPFSF6N 003.jpeg

You may also be able to manually activate the defrost for each section. Unplug the machine for one minute then restore power and wait for 5 minutes. Follow the steps in the diagram I posted below.
GE-Samsung Test Mode Manual Operation - Manual Defrost.jpg
 

JLH

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Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
Thank you sir, I will try this today, While I had the inside FF section apart, I retested everything with a 20k Ohms setting and everything tested fine. Also tested to the new thermister and got the same reading, so pretty sure it was not the problem. I will check and see if it's possible to send that piece back, hope so. I will for sure follow up and let you know. Am I correct in guessing to get to the lower evaporator I pull the freezer open, remove door/tray and somehow take the back wall out ?
 

JLH

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Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
When trying by unplugging the fridge and plugging it back up, it gives no error code at at all. Seems like the code it was giving in the past, the far left 8, was messed up and as best I remember it looked like a 6. I been pretty wrapped up in local news today, so have not checked email at all. We had a couple swat calls and my son is on swat here in Chattanooga, was pretty concerned for a spell.
 

JLH

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Jun 19, 2015
Messages
16
Location
TN
I have the freezer torn apart at this time, for sure frozen up behind that panel, have a hair dryer on it now, trying to loosen it up so I can pull it off and deice every thing to get a better look. Well I am instructing wife on how to do it :)
 
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