GFWN1100L0WW GE Front Loader Not Spinning

[MarleyAnn]

Model Number

GFWN1100L0WW

Brand

GE

Age

1-5 years

We have a front load GE that just stopped going through it's full cycle. I have gone through all of the prescribed steps, but I'm still not sure which part to replace.

1. The resistance at the motor all checks out correctly.

2. I get an error code E54 which the manual describes as a communication error to the motor. The recommended fix seems to be replacing the inverter.

3. I tried the T10/T11 tests and it just beeps twice but does not initiate the test sequence. I do not get any voltage at the blue/red wires because the test sequence does not start.

4. I DO get 120 at the blue/red wires when the machine goes through it's regular startup and anytime the motor should turn in normal mode - which tells me the main controller is sending voltage (but the motor still doesn't turn).



#3 makes it seem like the main control board is bad, but #4 makes it seem like the inverter is bad. I don't know which to replace and both parts are very expensive. Anyone know of a way to narrow down the issue further?

-----------------------

Also, does anyone know which T1 to choose if I want to reset the main board? I don't see my model listed anywhere for this setup. Model# GFWN1100L0WW

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Note: Entering the service mode is a little different on models GFWN1000, GFAN1000,GFWN1100, and GFAN1100. To enter the service mode on these models press signal, extra rinse, signal and extra rinse. Press the same button sequence to exit the service mode.

I'm attaching the tech data sheet for your model below, look on page 7 then you will see Error Code 54 that says: Motor Drive Internal Problems Then do what it says in the next box over.


Here's the motor inverter for your model: GE WH12X10519 Inverter

Here's the control board for your model: GE WH12X10457 Control Board


Shawn has a webpage to help you narrow it down, Follow all the steps outlined in this link: GE Front Loader Washer Motor and Inverter Testing

Shawn says this: To test the motor sensor on a GE front loader washer, disconnect power to the washer then access the control. Follow these instructions to access the main control. 1. Remove the soap dispenser to access the hidden screw and remove the screw. 2. Remove the top of the washer. 3. Remove the two screws that hold the control on under the top. 4. Press in on the clips on the back of the control panel to release it.

Once you have accessed the control, locate the P9 connector and disconnect it. On that connector there will be two yellow wires. These are the two wires that go to the sensor. Test continuity across these two wires and you should get approximately 118 ohms. If not, the sensor is bad. The motor will have to be replaced if the sensor is bad.

Here's the motor for your model you can order if needed:
GE WH20X10028 Motor Asm Kit


Jake

 

[MarleyAnn]

Hi Jake,

Thanks for the response! I don't get any resistance at all when checking the sensor at the main board. Couldn't this reading mean that it's simply not making it through the inverter and to the motor? I checked the wiring and didn't see anything that looked off.

I did see some loose wires at a different location. I'm not sure what they were for or if they are actually needed. I will attach a photo that shows their location.

Thanks!
Nick

 

[MarleyAnn]

Also, I followed the two yellow wires from the P9 connector (the ones used to check the motor sensor). One yellow wire goes to the inverter. The other yellow wire goes to nothing (dead ends at a plug). There is no possible way for there to be a resistance between those two wires.

 

[Jake]

Ok Nick, the photo above you posted with those 2 wires disconnected looks like it goes to that component in the photo there with the plastic connector attached to it, that looks like your thermistor.

Those wires need to be connected to the thermistor, that may be the problem.

Did you buy this washer brand new or used? Has anyone worked on this washer before? because its strange both of those wires are completely cut loose from that plastic connector that connects to the thermistor.

Look at the tech data sheet at the top of Page 2 it shows where the Red and Yellow go to the thermistor.

Here's the thermistor for your model:
Thermistor WH12X10351


Jake

 

[MarleyAnn]

We bought the washer brand new and it's never been opened or worked on. It looks like the wires were cleanly cut down inside the plug, so it must have been from vibrations over time. The thermistor gives off a resistance of about 10k-11k ohms which I think is probably OK. It seems strange that this might cause the problem with the motor, but I will attach the wires to the old thermistor tomorrow to see if it fixes things.

I have attached some photos that show how only one of the P9 yellow motor sensor wires actually makes it to the inverter. The other one just dead ends at the plug.

 

[Jake]

Ok,

Look at the tech data sheet at the top of Page 2 where the wiring diagram is, then you see P9 on the left side of the Main Control Board? From the top of the P9 connector starts with 1 which is the Yellow wire(P9-1) that goes to P2-5 on the inverter, then the other Yellow wire is at P9-2 that goes to the P2-1 on the inverter.

Are you following along and seeing that on yours? Which Yellow wire is dead ending? Trace the P2-5 wire and P2-1 wire from the inverter and they should both be Yellow going to the P9-1 wire and P9-2 wire both Yellow.

Jake

 

[MarleyAnn]

I'm not sure why it's different, but that data sheet definitely does not match what's in our washer.

There are 6 wires coming off of the P9 plug - not the 5 shown on the sheet. P9-1,4,5,6,7 all run to the inverter. P9-2 dead ends at the inverter's harness.

 

[Jake]

Ok, something isn't right, I'd need to come out to your house to figure this out. Sometimes its impossible to fix appliances only on the forum here when things don't jive.

So, its best to get GE to come out and see what's going on.

Jake

 

[MarleyAnn]

Hi Jake,

This machine has definitely put me off of GE. The tech data sheet that was packaged inside of the machine doesn't even match things correctly. I doubt it's worth calling out a tech because new machines are ~$500. I think I might just replace it and be done with it.

I definitely really appreciate all of your help in the matter - Best wishes!

 

[Jake]

Ok, I would agree that's the best route to take.

The washers with the least amount of electronics in them seem to be the most reliable. Just food for thought on your next washer.

Jake

 

[Terence Hood]

I am going through the exact same thing with this model. The Thermistor was also severed from the plug on mine, I was able to get the connector to come undone and removed the bits of wire and reattached the bare ends. This didn't fix anything though.

MarleyAnn is not wrong, the wiring diagram for this washer is not correct to how it was actually wired.

P9 Pin 1 - Goes down to the connection box and is the left most pin (yellow), this pin when connected continues on into the inverter board.
P9 Pin 2 - Goes down to the connection box and is the center pin (yellow), the other half of the connector on this center pin has no metal connector in it nor a wire leaving. It is an open line.

So with this said it will never get continuity from the main board P9 Connector. Since P9-2 is an open line at the connection box at the base of the machine.

The wiring diagram does not show either of these wires going into the inverter but P9-1 does. Then the inverter has two yellow wires leaving it that connect to the motor sensor Tach1 & Tach2

Now I have tested the two pins on the drive motor for the tachometer sensor and I do get the 118 ohms and 6 ohms when testing the coils, and have checked to make sure I don't have continuity from each pin to the motor housing. I feel like this is a much more accurate place to check the sensor. Checking from the top at the main board P9 connector leaves a lot variables open. In this case it wasn't wired in the factory to design specs. I don't know if they went with a different inverter board mid production or what but it isn't the same. It is also worth noting the other wiring pin out going into the inverter also does not match the diagram colors nor amount of wires.

I don't know what kind of magic they are doing on this inverter board but obviously it worked for a number of years just fine with just the one yellow wire fed into it from P9-1.

At this point, I contemplated just wiring the two tach sensor wires directly to the P9-1 and P9-2 like the wiring diagram shows, but with the other wires fed into the inverter also not matching the diagram I question if that might damage something.

I'm really just thinking some IC or other component went bad on the inverter board. I already replaced the two 200v 1000uf caps on the board as one was slightly bulging and that did not fix it. I'm not going to test everything on the board as it is coated in a heavy layer of clear coat and very difficult to probe.

I just think this guide needs updated to reflect how these were actually put together and update where people should be testing the motor sensor directly at the motor. I bet a lot of people have bought motors that didn't actually fix the problem.