FIXED GLET1031FS1 Dryer will not start, lots of testing done prior, please help!

Charlie1234

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
5
Location
New Mexico
Model Number
GLET1031FS1
Brand
Frigidaire
Age
More than 10 years
Dryer: Frigidaire stackable washer/dryer combo
Model: GLET1031FS1
Problem: Dryer will not start

Events: Dryer was making a horrible squeaking noise and not heating. I found the problem was the hub bearing and the heating element. The element coil was broken into 2 pieces.

I ordered the parts 5303281153 Rear Drum Bearing Kit 131475320 Dryer Heater Assembly and replace both easily. Put back together and dryer ran for about 1 minute until I started switching the fabric settings to test that everything was working properly.

After switching the setting from (white HIGH heat) to (air dry, color etc) the dryer stopped and never turned on again. I notice a burning smell (light), which is suspected was just the new element heating up for the first time (maybe I'm wrong). Motor is not humming, zero noise. This is a stackable unit, the wash is working fine.

Testing:
1: Thermal Fuse. Tested continuity, and it worked.

2: Door Switch. Tested continuity while closed, and it worked.

3: Start Switch. Tested continuity while holding start, and it worked.

4: Power. The outlet reads 240v, both legs properly read 120v. I then checked on the back of the dryer and I get the same reading showing it's getting proper power.

At the moment, I removed the dryer drum and door cover. I then disconnected the door switch from the door to set up with the cover off. This way I could test the unit without having to take the drum in and out each time. There is also no belt switch, so it shouldn't be an issue being off...

I'm not sure how to test the motor, I'm think this could be the next possible culprit. Any thoughts? This project has been driving me crazy for the past week.
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Hi Charlie,

Is this the thermal fuse that you ohm tested for continuity? Its located on the upper left side inner back wall of your cabinet.

Thermal Fuse 134120900


If so and its good, then its possibly your timer that went out.

131719100 Dryer Timer


Rick helped another member a few years back with a similar problem that uses the exact same dryer timer your model uses:

Follow the procedure steps he mentions to do in post#18 of that thread:
Disregard my last post and follow these instructions; If I only would have said check the voltage instead of continuity this thing would have been fixed two days ago (If I only had a brain..dada...da dada). It only took me a few hours to figure out this test because my brain kept going on vacation...lol.

OK my friend, Dryer empty, all wires connected, timer in off position. Set your meter to read Volts AC and connect one meter probe to the Neutral terminal and leave it there. Touch the other meter probe to B on the timer. You should read 120 VAC. Turn the timer to 40 minutes of timed dry. Touch C on the timer. You should read 120 Volts AC or the timer is bad. Touch X on the timer. If you read 0 VAC then touch M4 of the motor. If you read 0 Volts AC on the motor replace the thermal limiter.

If you read 120 Volts AC, replace the motor. If you read 120 Volts AC when you touch X on the timer, touch the start switch terminal that has the two wires on it, not the tan wire. If you read 0 Volts AC replace the start switch. If you read 120 Volts AC replace the door switch. If things check out, there's a break in the wire between the start switch and M6 motor switch.
Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Charlie1234

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
5
Location
New Mexico
Thank you Jake for the above!

Here's what I found:
1: Terminal B, 120v
2: Terminal C (set timer at 40 mins), 120v
3: Terminal X, 120v
4: It said if I get 120v at terminal X to then check the start switch, which I get 120v but on the TAN wire. The post from Rick says "NOT the tan wire". See photo attached. I get 120v when touching the tan wire and neutral (which was said not to check). I get 0v when I touch the grey wire. The switch passes the continuity test as well.

I'm stumped :wall:
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Ok, let me ask Rick.

Jake
 

AllFixed

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Jul 4, 2018
Messages
8
Location
Virginia
In order for the the motor to turn on you need:

Voltage. You said you got that.

Next common culprit would be the thermal fuse (the one that had two brown wires to it). You should have continuity on that if working properly.

Next, I'd check the timer. When set to heat, you should get continuity between terminals B and C. If not, you have a bad timer. You can take extra step and bypass it with a wire to ensure motor is operational for a temporary test.

If timer is good, test door switch. Which you said you already did.

Then the start switch, Again, you already did.

To check the motor, you should get a low ohm reading, not a short, between M4 and M5 on the motor. Should be less than 100 ohms. If you don't get that, you have a bad motor.

If all those check good, then it's time to check the wiring and connections.
 

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rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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I think something is miswired. You can't have 120 VAC between the white Neutral wire and terminal X on the timer because they are both neutral wires. Here's how it works; When the dryer is in the off position L2 is supplied to the timer "B" terminal and one side of the drum light.

The neutral wire connects to the COM terminal of the door switch. If the door is opened the neutral path is complete to the drum light through the door switch NC (Normally Closed) terminal and the light turns on. When the door is closed the neutral path to the light is broken. The neutral path is now directed out of the NO (Normally Open) terminal on the door switch to the M6 terminal on the motor switch and one side of the PTS switch. At this point the neutral path ends at M6 and at the PTS switch.

When you turn the timer to timed dry the timer contacts close between B and C and L2 now has a complete path to the thermal fuse and if the thermal fuse is good, to M4 on the motor switch. M4 is the common "hot"connection for the start windings and run windings. The motor won't run until it gets the neutral side of power. While the motor is off the M6 neutral connection is open to the motor windings. Now press the PTS switch and the neutral side of the power goes through the momentary switch to The "X" terminal on the timer.

Another wire on the "X" terminal goes to M5 on the motor switch. M5 is closed to both the start windings and run windings. Both the start windings and run windings are energized to start the motor. Once the motor reaches 70 % of its operating speed the motor centrifugal switch opens the connection between M5 and the start windings and closes to M6. When you release the PTS switch the neutral path to the "X" terminal and the M5 terminal is broken. The motor continues to run on just the run windings the M4 and M6 terminals
 

Charlie1234

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
5
Location
New Mexico
SOLVED!!!

I was searching forum after forum, video after video, and came across the following:

The video isn't my unit, but it had me wondering on the motor switch. I checked mine, moved the motor arm in/out a few times and whala, it works! The motor switch that has a little metal arm that controls the motor shaft seems to have been jammed. I'm thinking when I started the dryer after replacing the bearing/heating element, some hard piece of dust/debris fell onto the motor which caused the motor not to engage.

Very strange, would have probably ended up replacing the motor as it had power, just wouldn't engage due to something falling into it.

Happy to have this week long headache gone. Thanks all for your help! :encouragement:
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Excellent Charlie, thanks Rick for helping him.:)

Jake
 
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