• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

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GMC305PRB01 Whirlpool Oven Microwave Combo (Microwave Door error code)


Jul 20, 2018
United States
Model Number
6-10 years

My microwave bulb went out. I ordered another one and replaced it. It was working but now it is burned out again. When I closed the door of the microwave and tried to turn it on I got the "door" open display. I can set the clock. I enter a time to cook and the "door" is displayed on the display. The microwave thinks the door is now open. I researched this and the common problem seems to be the door switches may be bad. This particular microwave has 3 switches. Two on the right upper side and one on the left side. There are 2 common wires going to each of the switches on the right and one wire to the open and one to the close terminals. I did a continuity test on both of these switches and they seem to work. When the button is not pressed I get continuity to on terminal and the other terminal goes dead. From my basic understanding this is how the switches are suppose to work.

The left side only has two wires going to the switch. I can't see if this is a 2 or 3 prong switch, but I am able to take a continuity reading and I have continuity depending on whether the button is depressed or not. There are only 2 wires going to this switch

As I was saying the new bulb is burned out already, but I did take a continuity test to the two leads and regardless if the door is open or not there is continuity between the two leads to the socket.

I tested the smaller and larger fuses in the microwave as they said this could be an issue too. I did not take them out of their holders but I did a continuity test and they seem to be fine.

In all of the above descriptions when I refer to a continuity test I am setting my digital mulitmeter to buzz when the two wires touch.

I did not take an ohm reading on any of the switches are fuses.

I'm at a loss so any help is appreciated.

Thank you in advance for any help.
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