• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

Goodman Heat Pump - GSH130301BA - Contactor & Capacitor Replacement Questions


Premium Member
May 31, 2016
Model Number
6-10 years
Hi Jake (or other service techs viewing),

Jburger back again! :3:

You helped me fix the washer and dryer (they’re still going strong!), and this time it’s the heat pump that’s out for two days now. So I thought I would ask a couple of questions to see if I can do this repair DIY and would really appreciate your help and reassurance that I am wiring the new part (a contactor) correctly, as Goodman has updated the “pole” style of the contactor, and I am a bit unsure of how to go about it. This is my first time doing this kind of repair as well. I also wanted to be sure I am ordering the correct capacitor for the unit.

The outdoor unit I have is a Goodman heat pump, model # GSH130301BA. (The air handler inside the house is model # A30-10 if needed.)

The contactor part number is CONT1P025024V. Also listed on the sticker of the contactor are the numbers 45DG10AJA791R and MYO / 0931. Here is further info on the back tag of the outdoor unit if it helps:

Model No: GSH130301BA
A.C. Volts: 208/230
Max Fuse Amps or Max Circuit Breaker: 20
Time Delay Fuse or HACR Circuit Breaker required.
Min Circuit Amps: 14.6
Fan Motor - FLA: 1.10, H.P.: 1/6
Compressor - RLA: 10.8, LRA: 60
Max Working Pressure: (Unspecified/blank)
Factory Charge oz. R22: 130
Factory Pressure Test PSIG - Low: 150, High: 300
ARI Standard 210/240 Unitory Small HP

I did some probing and found the problem is likely with the outdoor unit. The contactor has pitted and the plastic tab holding down the “switch” completely broke off from years of current/arcing/etc. See picture “broken contactor.” The bottom wires going into the contactor also look a bit burnt and I will look to wire strip them.

After doing some research, this looks to be what they call a 1-and-a-half (1.5) "pole" contactor. It has a solid metal bar across one side, and a single contactor switch on the right hand side. Goodman/Repair Clinic suggest using an updated 2 "pole" style contactor, CONT2P025024VS, when I type in the outdoor unit model number. It is this one here:


The 2 pole replaces the 1.5 pole they shipped with the unit.

I am thinking it would probably be easiest for me to replace it with the exact same 1.5 pole one if you have a recommended link to where I can buy one. I am intending to replace one wire at a time, exactly the same as it is currently wired, as that would be easiest for me to do and follow logically.

But if the 2 pole contactor is all that’s available (and from my research, supposedly lasts longer), I want to be sure I am wiring it correctly. So onto my questions:

1. For the two pole contactor, can everything be wired exactly the same as the 1.5 one, taking off and putting on one wire at a time? For reference, the wiring goes as follows (see “contactor wiring diagram” picture):

-a black and white wire going into the bottom screws (120V each);
-a single black wire on the bottom left group of 4 terminals;
-a single black wire on the bottom right group of 4 terminals;
-two yellow wires on the left side (common?);
-a light blue, dark blue, and black wire on the right (common? black is heat pump reversing?);
-two reds coming out of the top right group of 4 terminals; and
-two blacks coming out of the top left group of 4 terminals.

I’ve attached a picture of a wiring diagram that is on the inside air handler. I don’t have the ability to read and interpret it, but thought it might help. I think it is for the inside air handler only, rather than the outdoor unit. If you can locate the service manual and wiring diagram for the outdoor unit, that would be great!!

2. The old contactor has three terminals on the right-hand side (light blue, dark blue, and black wires connect to these), and the new contactor looks to have only two on the right-hand side. How do I go about attaching three wires from the old contactor to what looks to be only two prongs/terminals on the right side of the new contactor?

3. Is it possible to install the contactor “upside-down” by accident (i.e., have I got my diagram upside down)? From my research, I think the terminals are numbered; I would of course take a closer look at it upon inspection, like Y1, Y2, etc. and make sure they are oriented correctly.

4. They say it’s a good idea to also replace the capacitor in the unit at the same time, so for a few dollars more, I might as well replace that while I have things apart. Is this the correct capacitor from Repair Clinic?

Capacitor: Round, Dual, 440 Volts, 40/5 Microfarads (MFD)
Fits Goodman OEM Part #CAP050400440RTP

5. I also have a question on two loose bright yellow wires that I noticed are clipped at the end. Please see pic “2 loose yellow wires.” I am not sure whether they fell off or if they are not needed/if the original technician who installed the unit left them off. They did not have wire caps on them and were off to the side. Any idea where two extra yellow wires might go to on a heat pump from your experience, with or without looking at a wiring diagram? I am planning to cap them individually otherwise with two wire caps.

I've also attached a picture of the control board for reference. Let me know what you think and if you need any clarification! Thank you so very much in advance for your time and help! I’ll be trying to keep cool and sane here! :)


  • control board.jpg
    control board.jpg
    279.9 KB · Views: 856
  • contactor wiring diagram.jpg
    contactor wiring diagram.jpg
    133.4 KB · Views: 1,915
  • capacitor.jpg
    278.8 KB · Views: 995
  • broken contactor.jpg
    broken contactor.jpg
    185.6 KB · Views: 601
  • air handler wiring diagram.jpg
    air handler wiring diagram.jpg
    265.1 KB · Views: 4,784
  • 2 loose yellow wires.jpg
    2 loose yellow wires.jpg
    174.6 KB · Views: 587
Last edited:
Quick follow-up: I believe this is the correct service manual for my Goodman unit. PDF attached. The table of contents is on p. 29, and it looks like the wiring diagrams start on p. 61.

I enclosed two more pictures to get a better view of the contactor and the loose yellow wires. You can disregard the "burnt off" text in the yellow wires picture, as I am thinking more so that the wires were extra/unneeded, or for another application, because I found no broken (female) spade terminal clippings burnt off in the compartment.

Finally, if you have any other recommendations or information on the repair that I missed, please let me know. :)


  • Service Manual.pdf
    1.4 MB · Views: 434
  • yellow wires.jpg
    yellow wires.jpg
    211.2 KB · Views: 1,215
  • contactor fried.jpg
    contactor fried.jpg
    214.4 KB · Views: 2,291
Last edited:
One last update: Here is a clear picture of the capacitor currently in the unit, which has the following writing on it:


I've also attached another picture of the capacitor. It has 2 terminals on the top and right, and 3 terminals on the bottom. Just making sure to get the correct one!


  • capacitor.jpg
    218.4 KB · Views: 678
  • capacitor wires.jpg
    capacitor wires.jpg
    223.4 KB · Views: 7,757
Hi jburger,

Welcome back. I don't work on enough of these HVAC units to be good at them.:) Just home appliances.

I wish I could answer your questions, but I can't.

Hopefully a HVAC tech will see your thread and answer those questions for you.

Hi Jake,

Hope you're doing well. :)

Aw, shucks. OK!

If you have a resident HVAC technician on the site who does this kind of work, it would be awesome if you could forward them to this thread. I am trying to do the work myself because the local companies I called say it can get as high as $475 for the repair, and on top of that, one wants an extra $125 just to come out and diagnose (which I've already done). This is for a 10 minute job and two $20-$30 contactor and capacitor parts.

Thankfully it's raining outside and a little cooler today and for the next couple of days!

Take care,

Hello...Since these capacitors are now very expensive to replace. And the 40uf X 3 @ 450V had 2 sections tied together.
So you have one circuit operating @ 80uf and the other @ 40uf.
Is it ok to use a 2 section 100uf @450v, or does inrush become a issue hurting the transformer.
If you feel that you have benefited from this site, and would like to show your appreciation.