FIXED GSC25C6EYY02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Icemaker no power

[dredgoff]

Model Number

GSC25C6EYY02

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

1-5 years

Icemaker stopped working. Everything else is fine - water dispenser, cooling, lights, everything. Replaced icemaker assembly with no luck. Traced it to power to the icemaker at the bottom of the door - there isn't 120V. Replaced the main power card - no change. Ohmed out the blk/wht line from the power card (P3-3) to the connector - fine. Plug power back in - no power. Something is electrically wrong but I'm out of ideas. GSC25C6EYY02

 

[Jake]

Hi,

Broken/frayed wires comes to mind on this model, where the wire harness goes into the freezer door. This has become very common as of late.

(click to enlarge)


Lots of members have found frayed and broken wires causing the auger motor or ice maker to be dead. Remove your bottom kickplate grille, Remove the black wire harness loom too, broken wires can be underneath it.

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door.

Here's another one with the same thing about the frayed and broken wires: FIXED: 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

Here's another: FIXED: Whirlpool WSF26C2EXF01 Door Icemaker Not Working

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[dredgoff]

Hi Jake,

I tested the power in front of these bundles - at the junction below the fridge. There isn't 120V at that point. There's power coming out of the main power card and I ohmed the line. I'm thinking it's the neutral side so I checked the switch at the top of the fridge - that's fine. I ohmed the wires from the bottom to the top and everything's good there...

Very confusing...

 

[Jake]

Under the freezer door, with the wire harness loom removed, you didn't see any broken wires?

If the wires are good, Look at the front of the ice maker module and locate holes "L" and "N". With your DMM check for 120 Volts AC. You'll probably need to hold the door switch in and the ice maker housing flapper in. 0V = On the main board check for 120 Volts AC across P3-3 and P1-1.

If 120 Volts AC is present, try to force cycle the ice maker by shorting Holes "T" and "H" together with piece of wire. As soon as the ice maker starts a harvest cycle remove the wire.

If the ice maker doesn't start a harvest replace it:
WPW10251076 Icemaker

Jake

 

[dredgoff]

Hi Jake - 0V across L-N. 2VAC across black and white wires coming into the icemaker with switch closed in freezer. 2 VAC across the connector at the bottom of the freezer (should be 120VAC). Power is good coming off the board and (I believe) power is good to the connector. I think the neutral line is bad somewhere. Have you ever heard of this - where could it be? I thought of running a line to the bottom of the freezer door and bypassing the switch at the top to get power to the unit. Other ideas? Thank you for your time and help!

 

[Jake]

Sorry, I forgot to mention you have to unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet first for 5 minutes, then plug it back in, then remove the ice bucket and you will see a little flapper on the right side, tape the little door closed. Then recheck the voltage with holding the door switches in.

Jake

 

[Donn2390]

I hope tagging on to this thread is OK but here goes. I had ice maker problems at the end of last year, and thanks to this forum I discovered the broken wires at the bottom of the door. I repaired/replaced all of the wires and the problem was solved.
Now, six months later, the NO ICE problem popped up again. The first thing I looked for was to see if the wires had again broken. They were fine, no problem with the wires, so next I removed the ice bucket and the cover to gain access to the ice maker.
Upon inspection I noticed that on the left side top of the ice maker, several cubes were somehow pushed up and fused together and blocking the mechanism from rotating. Good news..! I just removed the out of place cubes and I'm back in business making ice.
A few days later it stopped again, so I inspected the ice maker and discovered the same thing, a few cubes frozen together above the ice maker and stopping the rotation, this time on the far right side of the ice maker.
I'm wondering if the paddles that turn to push the ice into the bucket are not rotating, so the ice stays on top rather than continuing on and dropping into the bucket? It hasn't happened all the way across... yet, so not sure if it could be the paddles?? If it does turn out to be the paddles, I assume that means a new ice maker is in my future?
I fixed it again this morning and I'm now waiting to see what happens, but I suspect it will continue to do the same thing since it has done it twice. Any thoughts on this particular problem?
Thank you again for the help, you're saving us all lots of $$$$$$$$$$

 

[Jake]

Can you take a photo or two with your iphone or android of what your seeing and upload the photo/photos here?

Do you have the same exact model number GSC25C6EYY02?

Jake

 

[Donn2390]

Hi, so far it continues to make ice, hopefully it will continue. Having experienced the problem two time within a weeks time, it makes me wonder. I'll keep an eye on it and if it happens again I'll be back.

I don't have the luxury of walking to the kitchen to check it, it's my daughters so I have to travel to see it. I told her to watch and if the reservoir level starts dropping to let me know.

My model is a GSC25C4EYY03 so two digits different from the one listed.

I appreciate your help, hopefully my strange problem won't reoccur.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good, glad to help!

Jake

 

[dredgoff]

Some more data for the quizzical problem! I unplugged the fridge and ohmed out the two lines from the main circuit card and they were both good. Likewise ohmed out to the icemaker at the top and those lines are good. The main circuit board isn't putting out 120V. Switched the board - still not putting out 120V (flapper works fine, optics are fine, closed the switch at the top of the freezer). Is there another sensor or line that activates the 120V to the icemaker? It seems like it's some logic inside the main card not feeding 120V.

I'm considering pulling the wire to the icemaker from the main card and feeding power directly with a jumper to either solve the problem or at least start making ice. Thoughts on the solution?

Thank you for all the help!

 

[Jake]

Unplug the refrigerator for 5 minutes, then plug it back in, then tape the flapper door closed, then hold the door switch in, then take the voltage reading at the ice maker, if you still don't get 120 volts, then you most likely have a break in your wiring, read post #2 again, and remove the wire harness black loom shealth and chances are you will see the broken wire.

Jake

 

[dredgoff]

Unplug the refrigerator for 5 minutes,...

Hi Jake,

Well the problem is solved. See Photo. My guess is that things were shorting out causing the main card to go down. I reset the fridge for 5 minutes with the connector unplugged under the fridge and there was 120V. Had to be the wiring. Pulled back the harness and you were absolutely right. Ice is making normally now after a few splices.

Two attachments - one is the photo of the sheared wires, other is the tech bulletin for how to troubleshoot this brand of refrigerator icemaker I found somewhere in my journeys.

Be safe everyone. Thanks again Jake.

 

[Jake]

Excellent @dredgoff, glad to hear you fixed your broken wires and your back in business.

Thanks for the update and the ice maker tech. sheet you uploaded!

Jake