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FIXED GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem

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DavTay

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Oct 15, 2019
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Jacksonville, FL
I have this issue after 2 years of use. Contacted Whirlpool. If they don't get back with some kinda repair options, gonna contact BBB. Would say to anyone else to do the same. No complaints, no problems.
Let us know if you hear back.
I found the exact same problem, thanks to this forum.
Last warranty guy replaced ever part of the ice maker system and didn't fix the problem. DUH.
He didn't even check this issue, nor did he run a diagnostic test thru the control panel.
Now, I did get them to refund the cost of my Fridge, so I win, I'll solder the wires myself.

Honestly seems like a manufacture recall issue.
 

mikeal21

Premium Member
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Sep 26, 2019
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9
Location
WI
Well they did reply to request,,,Sorry Charlie... Did get a new Amana fridge as replacement, less wires in door. Ice maker in freezer not door. Gonna find a plastic wire protector to add to wiring. Wonder why Whirlpool couldn't figure that out???
 

DavTay

Premium Member
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Oct 15, 2019
Messages
2
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Well they did reply to request,,,Sorry Charlie... Did get a new Amana fridge as replacement, less wires in door. Ice maker in freezer not door. Gonna find a plastic wire protector to add to wiring. Wonder why Whirlpool couldn't figure that out???
I can't believe this issue has been ongoing since 2013. I too sent a request to WP, we know what the response will be. I think you made a good choice by getting the Ice Maker in the fridge. I have heard numerous issues with mfg's that put the Ice Makers in the door. The old style seems to be much more reliable and makes more ice.
 

ColoradoBic

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2019
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3
Location
Florida
GSF26C4EXB02 Black Whrilpool Gold. Almost 8 years old. Ice maker died about 4 months ago. I spent a good deal of time researching the internet and troubleshooting the ice maker and ice level optic boards. I almost started down the path of replacing parts one by one, but didn't have the time or $. A few months later and we are about to move and rent the house where the the fridge will stay, so I had to get it fixed. I was feeling a bit overwhelmed and short on time with trying to get the correct replacement parts, so I decided to call a repair service.

The repairman noted no power at the ice maker, He assumed it was the optics receiver board and was going to pick one up from a local FSP distributor. He called back and then offered come back the next day, if I could wait, and to start with only replacing the ice maker with a spare he happened to have at home. $175 for that.

With this delay, I then got online and was looking for ways to diagnose the optics and thankfully came across this blog. and this particular thread of posts. I don't know why I never bothered to check for 120VAC at the connector for the ice maker myself, but thanks to this post, I did that and then checked for continuity of the four wires that go to the ice maker plug and sure enough, the white wire had no continuity. Upon inspecting the wiring harness at the bottom of the door, I found the break in the white wire, exposed copper on the black/wht wire and some brittle and cracking insulation on the grey and blue wires.

1573403085684.png


After some soldering and taping, it's all fixed now and the ice maker is making ice. I am only out the service charge, whatever that will be. (I don't have an invoice yet and was never told what that charge will be.) He does know I fixed it myself, so maybe he is a bit embarrassed about his mis-diagnosis and he will decide to not charge me. I did take up his time, so I do feel I should pay him for that, and he did get me started on the right path by checking for power at the ice maker. I am surprised that he did not also check the plug near bottom of the door and deduce a wire might be broken. I suppose he has not come across this issue before.

BTW... the red LED on the receiver board never did any blinking patterns. I had read in some other posts that it will blink in a certain pattern if there is some sort of error. On mine, the board seemed to be working and the red LED would go out if I blocked the IR beam, but about five minutes after each power cycle. The red LED would go out, even with nothing blocking the path. Even after repairing the wires and restoring power to the ice maker, the red LED still has this behavior. The repairman felt the red LED should always be on, except when the ice bucket gets full and the path is interrupted. Does anyone know what the normal behavior of the red LED on this board should be?

1573404073050.png


Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences. You saved me hundreds of dollars and countless hours that would have been spent on replacing perfectly good parts and wasted labor charges. At the time of writing this, the ice bucket is almost full.

I came across another post with similar symptoms, but the problem was not a broken wire. The person who posted described doing a bunch of diagnostic tests, but didn't say how those tests were initiated. I'd like to learn about this. How does one do the diagnostics as described in the following post?
 
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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
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Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, good job, yes many others have found the same wires cut on theirs too causing no power to the ice maker.

If you search our site for: Frayed Wires you will see 10 pages of them going back many years.:)

I came across another post with similar symptoms, but the problem was not a broken wire. The person who posted described doing a bunch of diagnostic tests, but didn't say how those tests were initiated. I'd like to learn about this.
Your tech. data sheet is located underneath the top refrigerator door hinge cover, it will tell you how to get into the diagnostics to do tests.

Jake
 

Jake

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My bad, I was thinking French door refrigerator, yours is a side by side. It should be located behind the kickplate grille then.

(click to enlarge)
Tech Sheet Locations.jpg
 

Donn2390

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
21
Location
Apple Valley Calif
I have the same "No ice" problem and now suspect the wires are the issue after trying everything and was finally fortunate enough to happen on to this forum. My problem is made more difficult because the frige I'm working on is my duaghters, so after researching here, I have to go to her house to to the job. Back and forth, making me crazy...and dizzy.!
Since my frige is not handy for me to inspect, my question to those of you that have done this, does the door have to be removed or are the wires easily accessible after removing the lower kick plate?
I assume there is 110v present so the power needs to be off to do the repair?
I will be making the trip later today, hopefully the wires are fairly accessible, if not the inspection/repair may have to wait until she is a work and I can take my time without her hoovering over my shoulder....
Thanks guys, I've been working on this problem for many hours so hope this is the answer.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Yes, you can leave the door in place, yes UNPLUG the refrigerator from the wall outlet first.:)

Add extra wire when you solder the wires back together to make sure you have more slack, so this does NOT happen again.:)

Jake
 

Donn2390

Premium Member
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Jul 19, 2014
Messages
21
Location
Apple Valley Calif
Well, another gold star for the forum members...! I just returned from working on the daughter's fridge, and found two broken wires in the loom. The loom looked good from the outside, but as I felt along the loom, it was noticeable soft in the area where the wires were broken, so I know where to begin my cut. Two of the wires are broken, so I will replace all four. It may take a few days due to the fact the fridge isn't at my home, but I let you know what I find.
It will be a challenge doing the repair as the bad wires are very close to the door.
I would never have discovered the problem without the help of this forum, so thanks again to all who have contributed.
 

Jake

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Excellent Don, glad to hear your back in business. (y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

Donn2390

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Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
21
Location
Apple Valley Calif
After repairing the wires, I now have ice again..! Even though I purchased parts I didn't need, I still save hundreds of dollars. A repair man probably wouldn't have been able to find the trouble anyway..
What a terrible design, it would have been so easy if, instead of the wires coming out of the door at the bottom, the designer would have terminated the wires into a plug at the bottom of the door. Then when the wires broke, you simply unplug the short loom from the door plug and the fridge plug, and replace it with a new loom. It would take perhaps 10 minutes and would last another few years.
Instead they decided to save half a cent on each fridge and mickey mouse it up for profits. Of course had they done it as I suggest, they would have been able to charge a ridiculously exorbitant price for the replacement loom as they do for all of their replacement parts.
Incidentally, I'm not recommending this to anyone, they can do what they feel is safest, but I didn't unplug the fridge. It is installed in such a difficult place to reach, I was just going to trip the breaker for that circuit rather than unplug. Before shutting off the breaker, I checked for power, and with the door open, none of the wires were hot, so I proceeded with the fridge plugged in and it worked out fine.
Thanks again for all that contributed to this article, I would probably never have found the problem without your help.
 
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