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FIXED GSH25JSXBSS GE Fridge short cycling

repair_newbie

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
14
Location
NC
Model Number
GSH25JSXBSS
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
I have a GSH25JSXBSS fridge that I've noticed is short-cycling. The freezer is around 10 degrees currently and fridge around 41. I have the temps turned all the way on cold, so it seems it should be a little colder inside, and I'm guessing the short cycling is the cause. I've noticed that the fridge (compressor, and both fans) will run for a couple minutes, and then both fans and the compressor shut down, like it has reached proper temp. But then a couple minutes later, both fans turns back on, but the compressor fails to turn on (with a relay click - probably thermal overload since the compressor was just on). I've felt the compressor, and its a little warm, but no where close to hot. I'll hear the click a couple times, and then by the third time, the compressor will kick on. It will run for several minutes, and then both fans and the compressor turn off again, and the cycle repeats. Would this be a control board issue? Or a temperature sensor issue? I was thinking if a sensor is acting up, the control board could possibly be working correctly but just receiving bad readings, which could cause the short cycling. As a test, i did take the control board out, and put it in an equivalent fridge that i know has a refrigerant leak, and the compressor runs non stop in there, doesnt do the short cycling in that one. So i sorta dont think its the control board, but i have no idea. Any ideas?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
39,590
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I'll hear the click a couple times, ....... Would this be a control board issue? Or a temperature sensor issue?
Might be a compressor issue. When the machine turns off measure the voltage across J8 and J7-9
WR55X10942-1.jpg
 

repair_newbie

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
14
Location
NC
Might be a compressor issue. When the machine turns off measure the voltage across J8 and J7-9
But when the compressor shuts off, so do both fans. So i assume the control board is signaling it all to turn off, like it has reached set temp. I can measure voltage like you mentioned, but would my assumption be correct? After everything being off a couple minutes, then it all cranks back up (fans start up, then i start hearing the clicking relay a couple times). So i would assume i would have voltage at that point, but when it first all initially shuts off, i would assume i wont have voltage to the compressor since the board shut it off.
 

repair_newbie

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
14
Location
NC
I tested voltage across J8 and J7/9 and its 0 volts when everything is off, but when it starts back up (both fans running, but compressor not running yet, due to thermal overload/relay), its 120 volts. Thats exactly what i would expect it to be. The relay is not allowing voltage to the compressor yet, to prevent short cycling the compressor. From what i understand the relay is doing its job. But the control board is just short cycling. Seems to me like either its a bad control board, or bad temp sensor somewhere that is telling the control board its temp. If a bad temp sensor, maybe its just super sensitive. Like once the fridge starts up, the sensor reads a cold temp really quickly, and causes the control board to turn things off. So i did replace the damper right before this. This model fridge came with one of the cheap-o mylar flap dampers (even though it has the wiring hookup for the motorized one) and the fridge side was getting too cold becuase the flap wore out. So i replaced it with the motorized type. The wiring hardness for the new damper has the temp sensor for the fridge side built in. So in turn, i ended up replacing the fridge side temp sensor, since it was all integrated. I got it used off ebay. Maybe the sensor is bad on it? Could that cause this?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
39,590
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States

repair_newbie

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
14
Location
NC
I posted the question with appliance part pros, and they responded with this:

It may be possible that there could be too much of a current draw coming from the compressor that it shuts down the main control or that there may be a short in one of the circuits. The compressor windings can be tested (while the refrigerator is unplugged) for resistance and should measure 3O when tested from the overload pin to the top left pin, then 4O when tested from the overload pin to the top right pin. If the windings test properly, the next step would be to test the compressor wire circuit and fan circuits for any shorted wires.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
39,590
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
It may be possible that there could be too much of a current draw coming from the compressor that it shuts down the main control
OK, here's the deal. If the compressor was pulling too many amps it would trip the overload not the board. The condensor fan motor is inline with the compressor overload. However the, evaporator fan motor is not. That tells me the problem is the board.
Maybe the sensor is bad on it? Could that cause this?
Check the thermistors for the correct resistance.
Did you check the thermistor you just replaced? That might cause your problem. I'll give you the pinouts:
WR55X10942-2.jpg

The wiring hardness for the new damper has the temp sensor for the fridge side built in.
What's the part number?
should measure 3O when tested from the overload pin to the top left pin, then 4O when tested from the overload pin to the top right pin.
R -Compressor Windings.jpg


Here's how to test the start device:
R-start device.jpg
 

repair_newbie

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
14
Location
NC
Rick, Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. The damper part number is WR13X10988. I got it used. Looks like this:

2020-09-09 13_31_40-refrigerator damper motor WR13X10988.png


I have not tested the thermistor on it, but I will. And I will compare it to the spec to see if its off. I'll also test the reading on the compressor windings and test the start relay to see what it reads. When the fridge shuts down, i do hear a relay click, but i assumed it was the relay on the control board, and not the start relay. Both fans and the compressor shut down when i hear the click. But like i said, 2-3 minutes later, it all starts back up and cycle repeats (2x failed compressor start, followed by successful compressor start, followed by a few minutes of running, followed by shutdown). Will probably be this evening before I can get to it, but i'll report back and let you know what i find. Thanks again!


Update, i was able to run out and check the thermistor real quick. Thermometer i had in the fridge said it was 41 in the fridge. I took the housing off, and unplugged the harness, and tried to quickly get a reading before it had a chance to warm up too much. It was about 14k ohs at first, and then started falling as it warmed up. But even at 14k, by the chart, it looks like that would be around 36. But what doesnt make sense is before I replaced the damper, the fridge stayed around 25 (due to defective mylar damper), so it seems that if the fridge thermistor can signal the control board to shut off, then it seems like the fridge would have never gotten to 25, since the control board should have cut off before that could happen.
 
Last edited:

repair_newbie

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
14
Location
NC
I figured it out! And i feel stupid. So first i put both the old thermistor and the new one in a cup of ice water, and they were both reading almost the same exact resistance, and both were spot on to the chart Rick posted above. So i knew it wasnt a bad thermistor. So i reinstalled it, and let it run for a while, and then checked the resistance of the thermistors at the control board, using Rick's diagram. I found that the fridge thermistor was reading 18ohms, which by the chart is between 23 and 32 degrees, yet it was 42 in the fridge. So i started inspecting where the thermistor is mounted/installed. I noticed that the little cavity that the thermistor goes in has holes at the bottom (lightbulb moment....its for airflow), and that i had not been routing the thermistor wire all the way down through the cavity and setting the thermistor where the holes were (a few inches down in the cavity), but rather had the thermistor at the top of the cavity. Appearantly the top of the cavity is a lot colder than down where the holes are, which sorta makes sense. Heres a pic of the cavity, and a pic of the holes at the bottom of it:
cavity.png

cavity_holes.png


So anyways, i installed it so that the thermistor is right behind these square holes, and now everything works perfect. Rookie mistake i'm sure, but good learning experience.
 
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