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GSH25KGREBB GE side by side coil heater stays on too long

calis9000

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Model Number
GSH25KGREBB
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
Ok, so I've been dealing with this problem all year at this point. I have a standard GE side by side fridge, and at the beginning of the year, it stopped getting cold. Checked the coils, they were frozen solid, I checked the heating coil, it was burnt and charred, so I bought a new heater and replaced it. Well after that, the heater was getting so hot that it was melting Ziploc bags in the freezer and melting all the ice/frozen food. I went ahead and changed the control board in the back of the fridge, then eventually I changed the thermostat ( the circular sensor the size of maybe a nickel), and then I changed the other sensor (smaller in diameter, more like a pencil and white). After that, nothing changed, in fact, it stayed so hot for so long that it caught on fire and charred the wire along with the heater. So I went and bought another new heater, another thermostat (the nickel-sized thing again), another white sensor, and new wire. I soldered the wire and the connections and made sure I bought wire that could handle up to 125 C as was the original wire. A guy at the store mentioned that there should be 3 sensors in the freezer, so when I put the heater back in I looked around and sure enough, there is a second white sensor extremely well hidden at the bottom of the freezer, so I cut this out and replaced it with a new one.

So now it's been a week or so and everything seems to be working fairly normal, but once again it's either getting too hot or staying on for too long. It's melting all the ice in the ice maker, and I don't dare put food back into it until I'm sure it's working right. I'm running out of things to replace at this point, so I'm hoping someone has some suggestions.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
This is nothing I have seen happen before, and believe me I replaced hundreds of these same auto defrost parts in my 33 years as a career appliance tech.

First off where are you getting these auto defrost parts from?

The evaporator thermistor controls how long the defrost heater stays on.

Do you have a multimeter? Have you tested the ohms of the evaporator thermistor when its covered in frost, or in a glass of ice water?

Here's the evaporator thermistor for your model:
WR55X10025 Temperature Sensor


Watch this video, Shawn explains how to test the evaporator thermistor:


Jake
 

calis9000

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Well always good to hear I can bring new and exciting problems to the appliance world. Yes, that is one of the two types of sensors I replaced. This is also actually the same model as the second sensor I found at the bottom of the freezer. I purchased the sensors from my local appliance parts store here, they are extremely knowledgeable and helpful, which is how I was able to replace the parts in the first place. It seems like they must be working to some degree since it is telling the heater to come on. I do own a multimeter and I can try to take the readings that the guy in the video showed. It's good to know I can test it from the control board, I was afraid I would have to pull out the thermistors in order to test them.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, ohm test the evaporator thermistor from the motherboard per Shawn's video, and let us know your results.:)

Jake
 

calis9000

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Ok, so believe it or not, I just got around to checking the board for this. I noticed that my J1 cable doesn't actually look like the one in the video. Can anyone look at this picture and tell me how the pins compare to the one the guy in the video is using?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Its identical to yours.

Look at the video again at the 4:10 mark, and see him count the pins? The J1 connector is the right top one in your photo. The wire colors maybe different, but don't go by the wire colors.:)

Jake
 

calis9000

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Yea, if you notice in the picture, I pulled the J1 out, but in the first pin, I don't have a wire? So do I go to the 5th pin? Or the 5th wire?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Some models may not have a wire in the first pin, don't worry about that.

Black lead on the 5th wire
Red lead on the 4th wire.

Jake
 

calis9000

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Ah yes, after watching the video again that makes sense, I guess my model doesn't have two thermistors in the fridge section.

So I measured the three I do have, the one that's off is the evaporator thermistor, it's reading about 32k ohms, roughly double what it should be... I'm not sure why it's off however since I just replaced that one a few months ago when I replaced everything else...
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Was the evaporator thermistor covered in frost OR in a cup of ice water, waiting at least 5 minutes before ohm testing it?

Jake
 

calis9000

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
6
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Yes, I put it in ice water. When I switched the ice water to the other thermistors I checked the evaporator again, it was slowly going down, it read 27k
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
113,138
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, then its bad, it should be 16.3K ohms covered in frost or in ice water.

You can order the new thermistor from my link to it in post #2 above.

Jake
 
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