GSH25SGRBSS GE Side-By-Side Fridge Is Hot

Robb235

Premium Member
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Jun 8, 2019
Messages
15
Location
Tennessee
Model Number
GSH25SGRBSS
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
Model: GSH25SGRBSS

Had an issue with the coils frosting over. Traced it to a bad thermistor in the freezer that had resistance way out of range. While I was in there I just went ahead and replaced both thermistors in the freezer side. I also replaced the bi-metal thermostat. I forget which connectors I jumpered on the control board, but the heater element works and gets hot in a hurry. Also verified that resistance across the heater was within spec. Noted that the fan blowing across the coils in back of the freezer was working. I did NOT replace thermistor in the fridge side, because I don't know how to access it.

A month after I replaced the faulty thermistor (and other parts listed above), I noticed this morning that the fridge was warm, about 60 degrees. Freezer side is cold, around -2 according to my laser thermometer.

I have not checked if the coils are frozen over again, since freezer is currently full of food. Does that need to be the next step? What a pain unloading the freezer...

Can I measure resistance of the fridge thermistor at the control board? If so, how?
 

Robb235

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Messages
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Ok, so after watching some YouTube videos, I figured out how to test thermistors from the control board.

J1-5 to J1-2: 8.2K ohms
J1-5 to J1-3: Open (how?? I just replaced it...)
J1-5 to J1-4: 47k ohms

So when I replaced the freezer side thermistors, I used heat shrink bullet connectors to make the connections. I guess I must've made a bad connection somewhere. That or the thermistor already went bad?
 
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rickgburton

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You can check everything at the motherboard. Check for a broken wire between the connector and the thermistor. Here's the pinouts for the board:
WR55X10942-1.jpgWR55X10942-2.jpgGEMB-03 Defrost Test.jpgGEMB-07 Fan Thermistors.jpg

This is how I measure in the connectors:
safety pin trick.jpg
 

Robb235

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I redid the connections for the freezer thermistor. It read something like 6k or 7k ohms between J1-5 to J1-3, don't remember exactly, with everything at room temperature.

Fridge still seems to run constantly, so I guess we'll see in another month or so if my coils ice up again.
 

Robb235

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Well, it's doing it again. Fridge side was warm 50ºF. Freezer side was around 0ºF. Not sure what else to do with this refrigerator, no idea what else I should replace at this point.
 

rickgburton

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rickgburton

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There's only the three parts that make up the defrost system, the heater, thermostat, and board. That's why I said it's simple. If the heater and thermostat are good the board is the only thing left.
 

Robb235

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Measured the resistance of my three thermistors at the motherboard again.

J1-5 to J1-2: 8.4K ohms (laser thermometer said 55-60ºF in the fridge)

J1-5 to J1-3: 73K ohms (laser thermometer read between -6 and 0ºF in freezer)

J1-5 to J1-4: 84k ohms (again, thermometer read between -6 and 0ºF in freezer)

Why are both my brand new thermistors in the freezer reading so far off the actual temperature?
 

Robb235

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Took measurements again just now.

Now I’m getting :

J1-5 to J1-2: 8.2k ohms

J1-5 to J1-3: 42k ohms

J1-5 to J1-4: 49k ohms

What gives...
 

rickgburton

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That looks about right. 8.2K=56°F 42K=0°F 49K=-5°F It depends on how accurate your infrared temperature gun is and where you're shooting the temperature. Most infrared guns have a ±4°F The only accurate way to measure a GE thermistor is to place it in a small glass of crushed ice and just enough water to cover it. That will get the thermistor to 32°F. At 32°F the thermistor should have 16.3KΩ resistance. Those last measurements are close enough for me to say they're fine.
 

rickgburton

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Maybe it's your connections since it's the two you replaced. They shouldn't keep the control from starting a defrost cycle. J1-4 is used to terminate the defrost cycle and unless it was open or shorted wouldn't stop the control from starting a defrost cycle.
 

Robb235

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I replaced the motherboard, and yesterday noticed my fridge is warm again.

God damn this refrigerator.
 

rickgburton

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OK you better take a picture of the coils and the frost pattern and post them here. When there's a defrost problem the evaporator keeps building frost on it until it blocks the air flow and that takes a week or longer. I now suspect you might have a sealed system issue.
 

Robb235

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I guess I should clarify. Replaced the motherboard about a month ago. Noticed day before yesterday that the fridge was warm, frost on the backside of the freezer. Will tear into it tonight when I get home.
 

Robb235

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I jumpered pin J9 to J11 to check the defrost heater and it’s not coming on. I’ve tried both the old heater (I held onto it in my junk drawer), and also swapped bi-metal thermostats. Still can’t get defrost heater to kick on. Would bad motherboard do this?

C7EFC018-5830-4CF3-B875-568C641FF43F.jpeg

8DCC071A-731F-4ECF-9FD0-73B8491BE4E5.jpeg


A08520CA-D672-4FB4-9F9F-B0E15F0DCB88.jpeg
 
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Robb235

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Bi-metal thermostat checks out good. I place it in a glass of ice water and I get continuity. Both defroster heaters measure 20 ohms across. So if J9 and J11 are jumpered together and defrost heater doesn’t come on, would this be another bad motherboard?
 
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