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GSHS6HGDBCSS GE Refrigerator - Defrost issues

Jarcurr

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Ma
Model Number
GSHS6HGDBCSS
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
Noticed the fridge was warm the other day. Defrosted manually Due to ice build up and things got closer to normal but still not working right, fridge keep rising and freezer is at 30-32.

I’ve tested continuity on the defrost heater and thermostat and thermistor on the mother board and on the components and they all check out. Im
at a Loss. Any tips would be great!
 

Jarcurr

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Ma
Completely frosted over. I’ve defrosted and installed again and left off. Frosts over again after 12 hours or so.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
39,769
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Here's the part you need: (FYI- This part was $189 six months ago!)
 

Jarcurr

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Ma
Think so? I couldn’t find a defrost timer on this model, does the mother board control it?
 

Jarcurr

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Ma
So if I’m not getting 3-6 amps and 18-20 ohms the mother is dead?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
39,769
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
No, no, no, If you don't get 3-6 amps, the heater is not on. Check the heater and thermostat for continuity or 18-20 ohms. If you get 3-6 amps, the defrost heater is working and the thermostat is good. That means the board is not starting a defrost cycle. Replace the board. If you're going to start a defrost cycle with your meter, make sure you meter is set to the correct settings or bye bye meter.
 

Jarcurr

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Ma
Gotcha. Thanks. I’m an appliance novice just trying to save a service call or wasting money on an appliance that may not be worth a repair.
 

Jarcurr

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Ma
I got 0 amps when testing the heater. Looks like I need to source a cheaper motherboard.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
39,769
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
OK my friend, you're still not following me.
I got 0 amps when testing the heater.
If you don't get 3-6 amps, the heater is not on.
By starting the defrost cycle with your meter, you're bypassing the motherboard and sending 120 VAC directly to the defrost heater. Soooo.....

Check the heater and thermostat for continuity or 18-20 ohms.
Also OL when testing j9 and j79
ooo... either the heater or thermostat is open. Access the heater and thermostat again and check which one is open.

I’ve tested continuity on the defrost heater and thermostat
Make sure your meter is on the correct setting and recheck both the heater and thermostat again. If both check good you have a broken wire between the heater and the board.


 

Jarcurr

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Ma
I just noticed that the terminal and blue wire for the defrost heater are nice and toasty.
 

Jarcurr

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Ma
Any chance you have a part number for the harness? I’m coming up empty.
 

Jarcurr

Premium Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Ma
Last night the fridge decided to defrost then immediately freeze up again. I’m at a loss hahah
 
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