• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

FIXED GSS30C6EYY01 Whirlpool Gold Icemaker Dead - need advanced troubleshooting steps

Status
Not open for further replies.

mataa

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
4
Location
Black Mountain NC
Model Number
GSS30C6EYY01
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Following a power failure, my icemaker is dead. This is a side by side model with the icemaker in the door and a laser? / IR? emitter / receiver across the top of the ice bin.

Known Facts:
a) Drinking water dispenser works normally and water filter is reasonably fresh.
b) Refrigerator and freezer work normally and freezer is cold at -1 degree F. Stand alone ice cube trays readily freeze water.
c) No ice is produced by the ice maker and no solenoid noise or other icemaker mechanical noise is heard.
d) The receiver LED is OFF.
e) A cell phone camera placed inside the ice bin, pointed at the emitter and then at the receiver and LED all show dark on recorded video.
f) Ejector plastic fins are in the roughly horizontal position over the top of the freezing mold tray.
g) Water supply tube at top of door is dry - no ice present.

Troubleshooting Done:
a) Icemaker unit was removed and warmed with a hair dryer 3 separate times over a period of several hours to ensure it is completely dry. Then it was reinstalled. No behavior change.
b) Both emitter and receiver circuit boards were removed and observed. No apparent discoloration of circuitry or obvious breaks in electronic component connections.

Can anyone suggest electrical troublehooting steps to diagnose precise problem? I have and know how to use a multimeter and can do just about anything with a little guidance.

Thanks all!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,075
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Lets check for the easiest problem that it can be first, lots of members have found frayed and broken wires causing the ice maker to be dead. Remove the black wire harness loom too, broken wires can be underneath it.

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem

Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door, I'd remove your kickplate and check for that first.

Here's another one with the same thing about the frayed and broken wires: FIXED: 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

Here's another: FIXED: Whirlpool WSF26C2EXF01 Door Icemaker Not Working

Here's the ice maker for your model:
WPW10251076 Icemaker


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

mataa

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
4
Location
Black Mountain NC
Thanks for the quick reply, Jake.

It was not intuitive to me to look for broken wires as the first step, and I preferred to find info on what voltages to check for before that. Fortunately, one of the pages you referred me to had a link to some detailed Whirlpool troubleshooting steps to follow. The models listed did not include mine, even if they were somewhat close, however, the photos there were identical to my components, so, I moved forward with those hoping for the best.

In my particular case, the relevant steps were:
a) Put the User Interface (front touch "STEALTH" panel) into Diagnostics mode, by pressing the left 2 touch switches simultaneously for 3 seconds until a beep is heard.
b) A code of "01" means that the ice bin is full or missing, which really means that the IR sensor is not receiving a signal.
c) Because the ice bin was indeed present and there is no ice or any obstruction to the IR beam, this was an incorrect result. The next test was to resolve if the IR receiver pc board was getting power.
d) Placing a test meter on pins 1 and 3 of the 3 pin plug dropping down toward the receiver board from the top of the door produced 14 VDC, exactly what it should be. (this was with the freezer door open and no switches depressed)
e) According to the document, the next step was to replace both receiver and emitter pc boards. Though I do not know for sure, I suspect that the receiver is at fault because the red LED on it never lit up under any condition. Assuming that the emitter is also at fault is odd to me, but hey, they want to sell parts. There is a reference made to the LED (on the emitter board) only lighting up for 5 minutes after power up, but mine was dead no matter what or when it was observed and that further points the finger at the emitter.

Fortunately, after spending almost 2 hours on the phone with Whirlpool, and getting referred to a Resolution Specialist and after waving off an offer to purchase a brand new ultra-highly discounted (to reward me for my loyalty) entire refrigerator (seriously), they relented and offered to pay for any and all parts I would need if I agreed to call in an authorized service tech. I have agreed to do that because my cost will come out lower using this approach than simply buying the parts alone would have cost. We'll see how it goes.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,075
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

I was going to give you the troubleshooting sheet after you checked the wire harness going into the door.:)

For others following your thread, here it is:
Here's the ice maker troubleshooting tech sheet for your model: Dropbox - W10687894 SXS Refrigerators in Door Ice Maker Troubleshooting Guide - March 2014.pdf

Do all the steps it says to do, and report back what you find.

Here's the Emitter LED board this your model:
W10870822 Cntrl-Elec


Here's the Receiver board this your model:
W10898445 Cntrl-Elec


The reason the troubleshooting guide says to replace both the emitter and receiver is not to sell you parts, its to fix the ice maker properly.:)

The reason I will never buy a refrigerator with circuit boards in it is for this very reason, circuit boards go haywire too much. I own and have always owned mechanical ice makers that don't use circuit boards to control the ice maker full level. In my Whirlpool refrigerator my ice maker uses the old reliable metal shut-off arm which raises up when the ice bucket gets full.:)

I've have 20 years of reliable service from it and counting.:) Of course the sales person at the appliance store will never tell you this, because they don't work on them.:wall:

Fortunately, after spending almost 2 hours on the phone with Whirlpool, and getting referred to a Resolution Specialist and after waving off an offer to purchase a brand new ultra-highly discounted (to reward me for my loyalty) entire refrigerator (seriously), they relented and offered to pay for any and all parts I would need if I agreed to call in an authorized service tech. I have agreed to do that because my cost will come out lower using this approach than simply buying the parts alone would have cost. We'll see how it goes.
That's wonderful news, glad Whirlpool came through for you.:)

Jake
 

mataa

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
4
Location
Black Mountain NC
Correcting my earlier post in section e)
e) According to the document, the next step was to replace both receiver and emitter pc boards. Though I do not know for sure, I suspect that the receiver is at fault because the red LED on it never lit up under any condition. Assuming that the emitter is also at fault is odd to me, but hey, they want to sell parts. There is a reference made to the LED (on the emitter board) only lighting up for 5 minutes after power up, but mine was dead no matter what or when it was observed and that further points the finger at the RECEIVER.

As for the need to replace both emitter and receiver, I will respectfully agree to disagree with you. It is unlikely that both parts failed simultaneously. OR, if they did, no explanation is given by Whirlpool for why that would be the case. And no troubleshooting is provided by them for checking out the emitter or receiver separately if the optics are found to be bad, as mine are.

My comments about Whirlpool loving to sell parts stems from the fact that once I was smacked in the head with the knowledge of how much Whirlpool wanted to collect for these parts, and how obscenely profitable they must be for them, it caused me to conclude that the incentive is so high to sell parts that this less than honest motivation extended into the troubleshooting guide by recommending the replacement of parts that were not yet proven to be bad. Extending the logic of wanting to produce a good repair out to its logical and ridiculous extreme, it could then be said that to ensure a good repair, why not just replace all parts in the refrigerator?

I too, wish that appliances subjected to extremes of heat, cold or humidity would use simpler and more robust components (e.g. stainless steel arm ice bin versus rinkey dink printed circuits for IR emitter / receiver). But, we are in the modern world now, for better or for worse!
 

mataa

Premium Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
4
Location
Black Mountain NC
I can confirm that the problem was, in fact, the IR Emitter (W10870822) and / or IR Receiver (W10898445) in the freezer door (together, commonly referred to as the "optics") . They were both replaced by a Whirlpool approved servicer as part of my deal with Whirlpool, so it is impossible to know which went bad for certain. Replacing these parts restored the function of the ice maker.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,075
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, on the previous optics version they would only sell the optics kit which comes with both Emitter and Receiver, Its always best to replace both when one fails.

Here's the previous optics kit they used on the early Whirlpool models, in the early 2000's:
W10757851 Cntrl-Elec


Glad to your back in business.:)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

Brad Estrada

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2018
Messages
1
Location
Florida
I am experiencing this same issue right now, I did some troubleshooting on the optics and got the LED to stay on for the 5 seconds indicating that everything is working but I still do not get any ice. Any advice?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
111,075
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Brad, please start a new thread with your model number. Your model number tag should be located inside the refrigerator section on the upper walls or ceiling.

Jake
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top