FIXED GTDP490ED1WS GE Dryer only runs when start button is held in - looking for schematic

[theripster]

Model Number

GTDP490ED1WS

Brand

GE

Age

6-10 years

I am trying to find a schematic for this dryer. I went on the GE website and spent more than an hour on hold listening to some God awful music waiting to talk to someone and when I finally got a live person she said that she could not help me but she would put me back on hold and someone else would be with me shortly. Really? You want to subject me to more of that God awful music? Yeah, I just couldn't do it.

 

[Jake]

What's the problem with it?

Jake

 

[theripster]

I don't know. Awhile back I sold an individual a dryer that I had repaired and had planned on taking his old dryer that was no longer working. When I got there he had taken his old dryer apart. Unfortunately he had started at the back, which as you know is not the right way. So basically I had some body parts and a pile of pieces. It just sat here at the house because I had several other projects I was working on. It has now come to the top of the list and so I am looking at it. Putting an ohm meter on all the parts, they basically all check out. The only thing I can find is one burned wire and a spot on the top of the dryer where the wire must have obviously shorted out. The wire is a thin brown wire attached to something that I do not know what it is. This wire comes from terminal A on the timer. The other wire is a thin pink color and goes to terminal H on the timer.

 

[bigbuck]

Maybe I can help u out.

 

[theripster]

Thanks bigbuck that is exactly what I am looking for.(on the plus side) It also made me open my eyes, because I was thinking of a different dryer at the same time. (on the minus side) Not going to go into details on that statement because I am way to embarrassed. I can however now move on eyes wide open. Thanks again. I'll keep you guys informed of my progress.

 

[theripster]

Well I am back. The nice thing about being an old retired faht(Yankee pronunciation here)is I can do what I want, when I want. That being said, stuff that gets set aside eventually comes up on the radar again. Thus this dryer. I have gotten it all back together, or so I thought. I have tried to test it with less than stellar results. It runs as long as I keep the start button depressed, but the second I release the start button the dryer stops. All the wiring appears to be properly connected. I have a new door switch installed because the original one came apart trying to get the wires off it. Looking at the schematic it shows an overload protector between M4 and the motor run windings. Could that be my problem, and if so where is it located? As always, I appreciate the invaluable info you guys give me.

 

[bigbuck]

If you look at the wiring diagram at the push start switch M5 and M6 will close as the motor picks up speed and the motor will run as you already know. Also what has to happen here is the IDLER SPRING SWITCH has to be closed for the circuit to be complete after you release the Push to Start Switch. Either you have a bad Belt Switch or a bad wire at that switch. The same thing would happen if the belt broke on a lot older GE Dryers. IDLER SPRING SWITCH is the Same as what I call the Belt Switch.

 

[theripster]

I have checked the belt switch and it seems to be operating properly. I will go back over it all again and see if I am missing something. Thanks for the direction

 

[theripster]

Well I have re-checked everything and had a meter on the belt switch when I got the belt back in place and it showed to have continuity. However, it still refuses to run once the start button is released.

 

[bigbuck]

So when you hold the start button and the motor run does it sound normal, any burning smell,what is the amp draw is that normal? What happens if you hold the button down for like 2 minutes is it still running as if it is normal and none of the above symptoms occur?

 

[theripster]

I have it all in pieces again rechecking everything. I have a dental appointment this afternoon but will re-assemble it when I get home and then respond to your questions. I do have one question though (What is the amp draw?) Not exactly sure how to measure this.

 

[bigbuck]

Clamp-style multimeter lets you make instant tests and measurements without disconnecting wires. Use this clamp-on multimeter to test amperage up to 400A And then compare it to the motor stated normal running Amps!

6 Function Mini Clamp Meter

Amazing deals on this 6 Function Mini Digital Multimeter at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I think the main thing here does the motor still run while holding the push button down for a minute or two so we can eliminate the motor as the problem without smoking or shutting down on the overload in the motor.

 

[theripster]

Well I put it back together and gave it a test holding the start button down. It ran fine. I put a thermometer on the exhaust to see what it was doing and it ran up to just a little over 160, then dropped off to about 140 and then back on the heat cycle. I ran it about 5 minutes. Every time I let the start button go it stopped, and when I pushed it again it went back to running just like normal.

 

[Jake]

Yes, I agree with bigbuck. Your problem is either a faulty belt switch or faulty motor switch if you find no wires shorted or broken.

--->After the motor starts and you release the start switch, power is applied via the belt switch to motor M6, then through the motor switch to M5. Check the belt switch or just jump it out. If the motor switch is the problem, the motor must be replaced.

Here's the belt switch for your model you can order:
GE WD21X10261 Interlock Switch


Once you click the part link to the belt switch above, you will see a HOW TO video there to access/replace it. Make sure you unplug the dryer first!

Here's the motor for your model you can order if your belt switch is fine:
WE17X22217 Kit Motor and Pulley


Jake

 

[bigbuck]

Have you look at the push button switch.You should have Two Brown wires on the same terminal one will run down to one side of the belt switch. The other side of that belt switch is a Pink wire. You should have 120 volts to neutral or a good ground at that Pink wire. Here is the simple circuit showing Red is the Hot leg and Blue is Neutral. Good luck.

 

[theripster]

Well I figured it out. Unfortunately my work area is not conducive to running all the possible tests. I have to assemble the dryers and take them out to the side of my house in order to get power to run them. It's a story all by itself, but that's the way it has to work. So I took the belt switch which had tested good, and just taped it in the closed position. Re-assembled the whole damn thing.(GROAN), and took it around the side to test it. Will wonders never cease? It ran just like it is supposed to. I put a thermometer on the exhaust so I could see what it was actually doing. A little over a 20 degree fluctuation and it was constant thru the whole cycle. Went into cool down mode. EOC signal buzzed at the appropriate time and in the end it shut itself off. I thank you bigbuck for keeping me focused. So the next thing now is the washer I left to work on this. Jake probably thinks I forgot him.(would never happen)

 

[bigbuck]

 

[Jake]

Excellent, so that means your belt switch was the culprit.

Thanks for the update!

Thanks BB for helping him too!

Jake

 

[theripster]

Just an FYI. Guess what I got in my email today. A copy of the schematic from GE. Yeah, it only took them 2 weeks to send it to me. Nothing like being on their game.

 

[Jake]

LOL, thats too funny.

Jake