FIXED GTW460ASJ0WW Lid Lock Switch Not Working After Replacement

[zfbusoff]

Model Number

GTW460ASJ0WW

Brand

GE

Age

1-5 years

Our washer lid lock switch burned out. I replaced the burned out lid lock switch (WH01X27954) with a newer version that is supposed to be compatible (WH08X31577). Now the lid lock light on the washer control display comes on when I manually push the lid lock switch in. But the washer will not lock or unlock the lid itself while it is running through cycles. I can manually run a speed cycle by locking the lid lock switch when the washer starts the wash cycle. So we can still get laundry done, but we would really like this fixed.

Did I get the wrong switch? Or is something else wrong? I know that there are some error codes but I'm not at home right now. I can post those later if that is helpful.

It also seems that the water level isn't filling up as high as normal the last few days. And the washer has randomly turned itself on a couple of times over the last few weeks.

I had an appliance repair person tell me that the coupler is faulty and causing the control board not to lock the lid lock switch. That didn't seem like a logical explanation to me. The washer spins and agitates just fine.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Jake]

The manufacturer has replaced part number WH01X27954 with part number WH08X31577.

You will need the OEM lid switch to fix it:

GE WH08X31577 Lid Lock Service Kit - AppliancePartsPros.com

Lid lock service kit WH08X31577 / AP6995570 made by GE

click.linksynergy.com

Did you buy it at AppliancePartsPros or RepairClinic?

Jake

 

[zfbusoff]

Thanks Jake. Part WH08X31577 is the exact switch that installed a few weeks back and it didn't work right out of the box so I assumed something else was wrong with the washer. Just so I'm clear, are you saying that the new switch is likely faulty? It is an OEM switch although I did not buy it from the two sites you mentioned.

Thanks,
Stephen

 

[Jake]

Yes, a burned out lid switch is just that, burned out, another part didn't make it burn out, unless you tried to jump it(bypass it), then that can ruin the control board too.

Rick explains how to test it here to verify if that one you got is bad or not:

FIXED - GTW680BPL0DG GE top load HE washer - getting error code 23.

My 2.5 yr old washer stopped finishing wash cycle. Would not spin clothes dry and would power off before completing the cycle. I ran the service mode tests and found that all tests pass except the spin test. During the spin test, I get the error code 23. The test starts with the 2 sprays of...

www.applianceblog.com

Read post #17 and post #21 of Ricks posts there.

Jake

 

[zfbusoff]

Okay, thanks Jake. I'll check it out and test the new switch when I'm back home later.

I didn't think something else had made the old switch burn out, but was more wondering if the burned out switch could have shorted out something on the control board which would make the new switch not work. Or maybe it was the control board from the start and the contacts on the old switch were also shot? It's been a few weeks since I took it apart so I don't remember everything.

I did remember just now that when the problem first happened, the washer lid would not open. The lid lock was partially locked and I had to pry it open. I tried running a cycle again and the same thing happened again. It locked but only partially unlocked and I had to pry it open again.

The new lid lock not working along with the water level issue and the random starting issue is what made me wonder if perhaps the control board is faulty.

Stephen

 

[zfbusoff]

My memory sometimes...

It just came back to me that I did jump the lid switch connector a few weeks back when the old switch went bad. I was trying to get some laundry done and saw on a YouTube video that I could just jump it to bypass it. I found this thread where someone did the same thing and fried their control board: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/ge-washer-gtw680bsj5ws-lid-switch.79718/

I will test the new lid switch out as suggested above, but it's brand new OEM part, so I'm thinking the likely culprit is a fried control board.

Stephen

 

[Jake]

Ok Stephen,

Then yes, you'd need to order and replace the control board as well if the lid switch is good.

Here's the control board for your model you can order:

GE WH22X32357 Ui & Control Board TL27 Le (AP7012223) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Ui & control board tl27 le WH22X32357 / AP7012223 made by GE

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

[zfbusoff]

Perfect, thanks for the help Jake. I'll post again once I've made more progress on it.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good Stephen.

Jake

 

[zfbusoff]

The lid switch tests out just fine according to the testing procedures you linked to above. I'm going to go ahead and order the control board from the link you provided and will post again once I have it installed and programmed.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good. The new control board should fix it then.

Yes, keep us posted.

Jake

 

[zfbusoff]

I got and installed the new control board and ran a spin test #14. The lid now locks and unlocks just fine. Thanks again for all the help Jake!

Just a couple of notes for anyone reading this post in the future.

1. Don't try to bypass your lid lock by jumping the harness! You will find YouTube videos that instruct you how to do it. Don't do it. As I understand it, this used to work, but with the newer washers, it is likely to destroy your control board. This is how I fried mine and had to replace both the board and lid lock switch instead of just the lid lock switch.
2. The personality ID of the new control board may be different than your old one, so make sure to follow the instructions given with the new board. My old personality ID was #6. The new board I got (the part Jake listed above) listed the personality ID for my model as #14.

Stephen

 

[Jake]

Excellent Stephen, glad to hear the new control board fixed it.

Thanks for the update and the added information!

Jake