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FIXED GTW680BPL0DG GE top load HE washer - getting error code 23.

StorkO

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2020
Messages
12
Location
Cary
Model Number
GTW680BPL0DG
Brand
GE
Age
1-5 years
My 2.5 yr old washer stopped finishing wash cycle. Would not spin clothes dry and would power off before completing the cycle. I ran the service mode tests and found that all tests pass except the spin test.
During the spin test, I get the error code 23. The test starts with the 2 sprays of water into the tube, then I hear a click from the control panel and then nothing after that. Then when I check the error code agian,
only a 23 appears. If I clear the error code and rerun the spin test, a 23 is detected again. I have replaced the lid lock switch, but this did not address the issue. Read somewhere that you have to reprogram the
control board after replacing the lid lock switch, but can't find anything on this procedure. I suspect there is no programming required when replacing the lid lock switch.
Wondering if the control board is bad, but doubt it since all other tests pass.
The personality ID is wrong, it is a 6, but should be a 2 for my model. I did not change this and when I attempted to change it, the options were only a 6, 7 or 8 ID. So I can't set it to 2 to match my
model number.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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There is a service bulletin on this problem, but we need your serial number.

Jake
 

StorkO

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Mar 22, 2020
Messages
12
Location
Cary
The UI SW version (Critical) is 2.10, the UI SW ver (non-critical) is 5.11 and the XML version (non-critical) is 4.0.
For the service mode tests, there is an option 19, but I don't see a 19 listed in my Technical Service Guide
which is from May 2016 for GE 27" top load washer model GTW680BSJ_WS. When I select test 19, it starts pouring
water into the tub. I didn't let it complete since I don't know what this test does. Is there a more recent Tech Service Guide for
my model/serial number?
 

StorkO

Premium Member
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Mar 22, 2020
Messages
12
Location
Cary
For the personality of my model (GTW680BPL0DG), the personality ID is 6, so that was not a problem with my washer. The technical service Guide has
GTW680**** having a ID of 2. But in mini pub 31-16928-3, it has GTW680***L0 having a ID of 6 which matches my washer. And in Mini pub 31-3000190
which matches my model, test 19 is listed as performing a Bulk Detergent Dispense Valve test.

So now the only issue I have is the lid not locking and getting an error code 23. I tested the ohms out on the old and new lid lock switch. If I am reading
the manual correctly, it should have 70ohms of resistance from pin 2 -3 and pin 1-3 when the lid is closed. I am seeing 76ohms on pins 1 and 3 which is for
detecting if the lid is closed and this is working for me. But I get an open loop when checking the ohms for pins 2 and 3. I get this for both the old switch and
new switch. So I guess the new switch is bad as well. I will get another switch, but test it before leaving the appliance store to make sure it works. I was told that
some of the switches are bad directly coming from GE.
 

Jake

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Thanks!

Your washer was made in December of 2017 per the model and serial number.

Lid Lock Assembly Diagnosis
The Lid Switch requires 120 VAC to activate the locking mechanism. The approximate resistance of the lock coil is 70 ohms from red-violet at the J513 control board connector.
Check the lid switch continuity of the lid switch between Red and Yellow at the same connector.

Make sure you unplug your washer before ohm testing!

Here's the lid switch assembly for your model:
WH01X27954 Lid Lock Quick Release


Jake
 

StorkO

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Messages
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Location
Cary
Jake,

I tested ohms between the yellow and red connectors at the J513 connection. I get about 72 ohms.
I tested ohms between the red and violet connectors at the J513 connection. I get an open loop.
I checked the wiring harness to make sure it was good, testing all 3 wires and all showed continuity.
This was with no power to the washing machine.

I am on my second new lid lock switch assembly, both new ones are of the same model you referenced above.
For the second new lid lock switch assembly, I tried to ohm it out in the appliance parts store and got
72 ohms for red and yellow by push the switch as if the door was closed. I then tested out the red-violet
connectors and got an open loop. Does this imply the switch is bad? The first switch I bought was in a
ziploc type of bag, not sealed, so I thought maybe it was a return that was bad. The second new switch was
in a GE sealed bag. I opened the bag in the store and tested it with my multimeter and the red/violet displayed an
open loop. I got this same result on the one that was in the ziploc bag. Could both be bad? I am measuring the ohms
incorrectly? The red-yellow show 72 ohms on one switch and 76 ohms on the other switch (ziploc bag version)
using the same method I used to test the red-violet. Is the red-violet supposed to be an open loop until it gets
power (120vac)? Still not getting the spin test to work since the door lock is not operating and getting the error code
23.
 

Jake

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I'm attaching the service bulletin below, it shows you the new upgraded lid switch, it must have that white moisture barrier on it, did both of those lid switches have it on?

Jake
 

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StorkO

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Yes, both of the new switches have the white moisture barrier on them.
 

Jake

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Ok, well, I'm going by what the service manual says, and it says this--->Check the lid switch continuity of the lid switch between Red and Yellow at the same connector.

If your not getting continuity, then its bad. Simple as that.

Is the parts place your getting them from like a national chain or regional chain?

What's the name of the place you are getting these at?

Jake
 

StorkO

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Messages
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Location
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I got the switches from a regional (NC/SC) appliance parts chain store.
The bag the switch came in was a GE Genuine Replacement labeled bag.
I bought another from a East Coast Appliance parts chain store. And same
type of bag this one came in. Testing all 3 of the new switches I have, all three
fail the door closed ohm testing as stated in the GE mini pub 31-3000190.

Resistance Table
Component Resistance (Ohms)* **
Drain pump 13.2
Lid lock*** 70
Mode shifter 5700
Recirculation pump 31.7
Water valves (Cold,Fab_Soft) 1374
Water valves (Hot, Rinse) 1515


* These values are read from the leads while disconnected from the control PCB
**The values are approximate
** Measure lid lock resistance between pins 2 and 3 and pins 1 and 3 while lid is closed

Maybe I am reading this wrong. Hard to image all 3 new switches are bad.
Suspecting it is a problem with the control board.
 

Jake

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---> Measure lid lock resistance between pins 2 and 3 and pins 1 and 3 while lid is closed.

What was the outcome on that test?

Jake
 

StorkO

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I get ~76ohms from pin 1(red) to 3(yellow),
open loop from pin 3(yellow) to 2(violet)
and open loop from pin 1(red) to 2(voilet).

All 3 new switches give same results. Well, one new switch
messured ~72ohms on pin 1 to 3.

Mike.
 

Jake

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Is the switch closed when you ohm test it for continuity? Meaning the switch sees the lid down.

Jake
 

StorkO

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Yes, it does see the lid open and close. The Lid Switch test passes when I run it from the field service mode.
Problem is engaging the lock. When I start the spin test, the lid does not get locked and the test doesn't finish,
generating the error code 23.
I see 120vac on the red lead(pin 1) and with the lid closed, I see 120vac on the yellow lead(pin 3). I see this
even when the washer is not running, just powered up with lid closed.

What I don't know is what causes the lock to engage? IOWs, what is the violet lead (pin 2) for? Does the computer
board output 120vac on that lead or is that just used by the controller board to determine when the lock is engaged?
From the wiring diagram, it looks like you should have resistance on pin 1 and 3 when lid is closed. And then also on 2 and 3 when
the lock is engaged since I it looks like it would close the loop between pins 2 and 3.
If that is the case, what does the control board do to cause the lock to engage? If I knew that, I could
determine if the control board is functioning properly.

Mike
 

rickgburton

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I get ~76ohms from pin 1(red) to 3(yellow),open loop from pin 3(yellow) to 2(violet)and open loop from pin 1(red) to 2(voilet).
...what does the control board do to cause the lock to engage?
OK, the control sends 120 VAC to the lid lock coil. You should have 70Ω across the red wire and the violet wire. If you have 120 VAC going to the coil (red wire and violet wire) then the lid switch, red wire and yellow wire should read closed. You can measure resistance with power applied because you're measuring resistance on the same wire. You can also check it by voltage. If you have 120 VAC going to the coil (Red-Violet) then you should also have 120 VAC between the yellow wire and cabinet ground.

Start with step #4 in this service flash:
 

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Jake

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Thanks Rick!

Ok Mike, do what Rick mentions to do and keep us posted.

I'm also attaching the tech data sheet below for this model.

Here's the main control board for your model, in case you need it:

Jake
 

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StorkO

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Rick,

When using wire colors, it is confusing since there are two wiring diagrams in 32-3000190.
One for belt drive motor and one for direct drive motor and it looks like they switched red and violet.
I wonder if it is just wire color switched or if the function of the pins on the PCB for J513 is differnet
across belt vs direct drive motor models? And you need the correct personality ID programmed
into the control board in order for it to work properly.
I am going with the belt drive motor wiring diagram since that matches the wire colors/pins on
my machine (GTW680BPL0DG).

I measured voltage on the red wire at 120v. With the lid closed, I get 120v on yellow
and no reading on violet. Then start the spin test (14) and measure violet for voltage.
Still no reading. Then check yellow voltage as well and get a 120v during the test with
lid closed.

I think when the lid is closed, there is 120v on yellow which tells the control board that
the lid is closed. When it is ready to lock the lid, it pulls yellow low (probably uses a relay on the
board to connect yellow to ground to pull it low). This will cause current to flow through the
coil in the switch and pulls the lock closed. When the lock is closed all the way, the switch closes
(red-violet is closed) and you would get a 120v reading on violet which tells the controller the
lid is now locked, safe to spin the tub. In my case, I think the relay or soldering connection is bad
and yellow never gets pulled low, no current through the coil so the lock doesn't engage in the switch.

Board has been ordered and will be able to install tomorrow and test it out. Will post my results
once I have them.

Mike
 
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