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FIXED GTWN4250D1WS Fill Light Flashing & Two Beeps....Not filling

pwillia

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Georgia
Model Number
GTWN4250D1WS
Brand
GE
Age
1-5 years
This is a GE Hydrowave. With it in Auto Load Sensing mode, when I press start, the fill LED light flashes and get two beeps every 20 secs. Nothing else. I have checked the lid switch and appears to work fine. Motor red LED flashes one second on, then one second off... so think it is OK. I suspect the pressure switch, but not sure. The pressure switch has three wires, orange, brown and pink. When I disconnect the hose and blow on it, I here the switch click twice. With no pressure, there is continuity between the orange and brown wire and then when I blow on the hose continuity remains with first click and then is reduced (~30k ohms) with second click.

Any ideas? I suppose it could be the controller board too.

Thanks
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
107,961
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Did you test the lid switch per ohm testing it with a multimeter?

Shawn has a good webpage on testing the lid switch here: HydroWave GE Washer Repair Guide Then look towards the bottom of that page where it says: Lid Switch

The lid switch will also cause this washer not to run and is an easy do-it-yourself GE washer repair. If the blinking light on the motor inverter board is flashing normal, the lid switch could be bad.

Then below that it says: Method For The Lid Switch.

You can check the lid switch by cutting the wire and testing it with an ohmmeter. But if the lid switch doesn't turn out to be the problem you have to splice the wires back. Here is a method for testing the lid switch that doesn't require cutting the wires.

Here's the lid switch for your model you can order here if needed:
GE WH12X10334 Lid Switch Asm


If your lid switch ohm tests fine, then you can actually test your control board.

Communication voltages are sent from the Control Board to the Motor. Test for these steady and pulsing serial voltages at the Control Board J7 Connecter.
Check for approximately 12.8 VDC steady from RED to BLUE. The BLUE wire is DC ground.
Check for the pulsing DC communication voltage from the RED and YELLOW. This is a pulsing, not a steady, voltage. If either voltage is absent at the Control Board J7 Connecter, replace the Control Board.

Here's the control board for your model you can order if needed:
WH12X10614 Control Asm


If the steady and pulsing voltages are OK at the Control Board J7 Connecter, disconnect the communication harness at the Motor and check the Motor harness connecter for the same voltages found at the Control Board.
If voltages are OK at the Motor harness connecter, replace the Motor.

Here's the motor for your model you can order if voltages are OK at the Motor harness connector:
WH20X10094 Motor and Inverter Asm


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
107,961
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I also found this in your service manual:

If communication is lost during First Fill, the Wash Basket will remain motionless. Approximately every 20 seconds the Control Board will flash the Fill Light and Beep twice. However, an OPEN Lid Switch can cause these same symptoms. LID flashing in the display is also an indication of communication lose. Determine which has occurred, either lost serial communication or a Lid Switch OPEN, by checking the Motor light. A 10-Flash error on the Motor indicates lost communication. If you see a steady ½ second-ON ½ second-OFF Motor light flash, this indicates a Lid Switch OPEN.

So its likely the lid switch that's bad, that's why its important to test it with a multimeter.:)

Jake
 

pwillia

Premium Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Georgia
Wow... this was driving me crazy.... Thanks for all of the tips and things to check. I had checked the lid switch several times with the ohmeter and it seemed to work fine, but the two beeps persisted. I even went so far as to remove the lid switch and twisted the wires together... Still same problem. Checked the voltages on the J7 connector at the board as recommended by Jake.... all seemed good.

Finally, with the unit plugged in to power, I happened to wiggle the left most connector down at the motor and saw a small spark....hmmm.... Unplugged the power and removed the connector. I have concluded that it was making a poor connection to the pins on the motor board. This plug has four wires going to it, orange, red/black, white/red and green/yellow. I removed the plug and noticed that it really is not that tight against the pins. Decided to gently bend all of the pins back just slightly and then reconnected the plug. All now seems to be working well.

I would not be surprised if others have this same problem! This connector is not very robust and over the course of time I suspect with the tub motion the connections become weak. I will keep an eye on it and may need to do a better job of fixing, but for now seems to be working.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
107,961
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent, good find on the motor connection!

Thanks for posting all that, it will definitely help others that may run into this same problem.:)

Jake
 
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