GU2400XTPS3 Whirlpool Dishwasher 7 blinks with a twist


Aug 19, 2019
Model Number
6-10 years
So, I've had the 7 blinks thing for awhile now. It runs for about 15 minutes and that's it.

Have not repaired it yet but need to get on this. It will not run a complete cycle unless I jump through some hoops and I am getting tired of it.

In order to get it to run I need to pour in a pot of hot hot water after the detergent dispenser pops open. I believe this is after water drains out from the initial rinse/soak phase. The water needs to be piping hot or it won't work (we have super hot tap water). Cool water won't cut it.

The washer does appear to be filling adequately without the extra water as it is just touching the heating element which I believe is normal fill amount. So I don't think it's a filling issue which I understand can prevent the element from turning on by design if there is not enough water (to protect the element).

As near as I can tell the heating element never comes on. But it appears smooth and clean, no pits or burn marks or anything on it when I feel all around it.

I surmise that the hot water I add is what is making the washer think everything is normal since the thermostat is reading a high enough water temperature to keep going.

I guess my ultimate question is, does it seem like I can skip to the chase and just buy a control board? Is it possible to have a bad element if it looks ok to visual and physical inspection?

Also, most information on the net is how to kick off the diagnostic mode for reset purposes. I know how to do that. But is there any information about how to interpret what diagnostic mode is telling us (if anything)?


Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Jul 11, 2006
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The control is designed to stop the cycle and not allow any further cycles if it suspects a faulty heater. Clean LED blinks 7 times and repeats and disables the start resume key until cleared. Running the Service Diagnostics clears the control and allows normal operation. If not corrected the control will stop again on the next cycle. Use a DMM to measure the resistance between P9 and P3 on the control board. Remove at least one of the wires from the control board. If you measure 10-30Ω replace the control board.


Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Aug 24, 2004
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes Rick is correct, Check the high limit thermostat and wires to the element by measuring the resistance from P9 and P3 on the control board. Your meter should show the element resistance (10-30Ω).

When you click the link to the control board below, there is a how to video to access it to do the resistance test.

Here's the control board for your model:
WP8564547 Control Board