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FIXED HE3 110.42822201 Clothes extremely wet after spin cycle

Dennis S

Premium Member
Oct 19, 2006
Ray Twp, Michigan
Model Number
Hi, Front load HE3 is leaving clothes extremely wet after the spin cycle. We have to perform a "drain & spin" cycle at least one time, two times with towels, to get the clothes dry enough to put in the dryer. There is no error code. I performed the diagnostic test that runs through all the cycles, and everything seems to work ok, but I don't know how long the spin cycle is supposed to last, and don't know if the drum is spinning at the correct speed.
The discharge line is unrestricted, and the pump filter is clean. I have a lifetime warranty on the pump that I've replaced previously, so I could replace that at no cost, but I don't think that's the problem. When I did the diagnostics test, the drum was completely emptied of water. Any idea what's going on here? I'm suspecting the spin speed and/or duration.
Hi Dennis,

You have the tech sheet correct? It has a cycle timing chart that will tell you how long the final spin will be, normally its 5-10 minutes give or take on most machines.

Is the water draining out of the drain fast when it drains?

In diagnostics the drum spins fast?

Have you stayed at the machine while it does the final drain and spin to see what's going on?

Thanks for the reply Jake.
I have a diagnostics booklet of sorts that came with the machine. It detailed how to put it in the diagnostic phase. I'll have to look closer, I don't recall seeing the timing chart.
Yes, the water drains out fast when it drains.
In diagnostics, it went through each of the stages; C01, C02, etc through completion, and every thing seemed to perform during that phase of the diagnostics, without failure or omission. It did spin fast, but it didn't change spin speeds. I seem to recall that in the past, the machine used to go into an "ultra fast" spin, that it doesn't seem to do anymore.
I have stayed with the machine during the drain and spin cycle. It drains with no water visible in the drum, but clothes are very wet at completion. It just ocurred to me that it never seems to go into the extremely high speed spin. There doesn't appear to be any gaps in cycles, like something is being skipped. One other thing I just remembered that might be related; Some time ago, while the machine was operatiing, the control panel was "chirping" or beeping with all the lights displayed (load selection, spin speed, water temp, etc). I rapped the area adjacent to the control area with my fist, and it resumed normal operation.
Hope this helps
Ok Dennis,

From that information I'd check your MCU and Motor itself. Make sure your washer is unplugged first!

TO CHECK: Visually inspect the MCU for burned spots on it first. The MCU is located on the left side once you have the lower access panel removed.

Now if you find burnt spots on your MCU, then that's the problem, just order a new MCU from the link below.

Now if you DON'T find burnt spots on it, it can still be bad, but we would need to ohm test the motor itself first to see if your motor is good.

You will need a multimeter to ohm the motor pins.

Remove the electrical connector from your motor then on your motor connector pins itself - Test pins 1-2-3. 1-2 then 1-3 then 2-3 should measure 6 omhs. If you get 6 ohms on those pins each, then your motor is fine, so you would just need to just order a new MCU from the link below.

Here's the motor control unit(MCU) for your model:
Motor Control Board W10756692

Here's the motor for your model:
Drive Motor WP8182793

If the MCU and Motor ohm tests good, then its possibly a faulty CCU.

Here's the CCU for your model:
285925 Electronic Control Board

Thank You Jake! Haven't had a chance to check these yet. I'm guessing that the MCU & CCU control the motor for going into the fastest spin speed? If the motor checks fine, is there a way to check the MCU and CCU other than just replacing them?
Thaks for your help!
If the motor checks fine, is there a way to check the MCU and CCU other than just replacing them?
Not that I'm aware of, the tech. data sheet doesn't say how to test them, except for the CCU.

To check the CCU:
Unplug your washer for 5 minutes, then:

Check for voltage going to Central Control Unit (CCU) by listening for a click in the CCU when unit is plugged in. If no click replace CCU.

Do you hear the click when you plug your washer back in?

Is the connector removed from the front or the back? When viewed from the front of the machine, the wires leading to the connector are black. On the back side of the connector, the wires are red, white & blue. The connector seems as though it can be pushed through the body of the motor, but I couldn't figure out how to remove it. Can the back panel of the machine be removed for access to the back side of the connector? The image attached is viewed from the front of the machine.


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Yes Dennis, from the front, cut that plastic zip tie first, then that connector should just unsnap out from the motor.:)

There's 5 terminals on the connector. No continuity between any combination of them. No click from the CCU, and the MCU looks fine. Think it's the motor?
That's odd, I don't think your ohm testing at the right place.

Pretend you just ordered the motor and you have the motor in your hand.

Look below, see the plastic wire connection block on the left side of your motor? Disconnect the wire harness block that snaps into that, then test at the motor connection block you see in the photo below on the left side.

FIXED!! Can't believe how simple this ended up being! While trying to understand why the ohm check wasn't working, I noticed that the switch that mounts to the chassis on the lower rear corner had disengaged from its mounting. There are two wires from the motor that go to that switch. The switch has a toggle that gets engaged when it's mounted. I reinstalled the switch and got the high speed spin back! Thanks for your help Jake!
Excellent, good find Dennis!

Here's that interlock switch for the front panel:
Micro Switch WPW10085220

Thanks for the update!


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