FIXED Help with 1930's Magic Chef oven valve

[betic72]

Model Number

1930s Magic Chef

I've got a couple of questions about an old stove. I've got a 1930's Magic Chef stove that I've now cleaned and adjusted the range valves on. Those are working great. The oven, however, is getting no gas at all. I assumed the 2 female nuts on the backside were a coupling and would turn independently so I could loosen one off the valve while the other remains tight to the pipe it's connected to. Unfortunately, both nuts turn when turning one and before working it anymore, I wanted to ask here to see what the best way to take this off is before applying too much pressure and breaking it. I've included some pics to you can see what I'm talking about. It's the first 3 pictures.

Also, there appears to be a small tap off the main line feeding the stove that comes out where the burner is and I'm wondering if it was added later because the burner itself is connected to the oven regulator/dial on the right side. I can't find any information on what this smaller gas line is for. This is on the last 2 pictures.

Thanks for any advice you can give.

 

[Dan O.]

I can't help with any of your other questions but the small gas line is likely for a pilot.


Dan O.

 

[betic72]

Thanks Dan. You may be right. There is a pilot for the stove burners, but the oven was originally lit with a match/lighter. This was definitely a later edition if that's what it is. It has the same pilot adjustment mechanism that the main pilot has so maybe Magic Chef came out with a pilot kit later on to add on.

 

[Dan O.]

Even a 'match light' oven ignition system has a pilot. It just needs to be manually lit each time the oven is turned on.

BTW. NO pilot would mean every time the burner cycled off to maintain temperature the burner would need to be relit manually. Not very convenient.

Maybe your range operates differently?


Dan O.

 

[betic72]

Update:

Well, it was definitely a pilot. I managed to get the oven valve apart. The connection wasn't a coupling at all, but a compression fitting at the end of the pipe. The nut on the valve is stationary to help hold against the force of turning the compression nut. The gas wasn't on to the stove because at some time before my obtaining it, the previous owner must have taken the handle off, turned the knob a bit and put it back on. The orifice was just always off when turning it off and on. I got it turned around and cleaned up and the oven is remarkably still keeping the temperature regulated. Thanks for the help. This one is solved.

 

[Dan O.]

Thanks for the followup.