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How can i test the damper motor

Jeanne A

Premium Member
Jun 30, 2015
Shreveport, LA
Model Number
How do I test the damper motor? The fridge side gets hot and cold as the freezer freezes and defrosts because the damper door is stuck open (better than closed). I am right now using a piece of duck tape to regulate it somewhat, but it still sucks - just less. After $280 and him diagnosing the problem as and replacing the fridge thermostat, there was no change and the repairman did not call for a month despite my calling and advising him of the problem. He surely will want more money. During this time, I ordered a damper online and replaced it, but this did not fix the problem. I even put the old damper motor in the new damper with no results. I needed a new damper anyway though, because it is a used refrigerator and the other one did not seal correctly. While working on the damper, I noticed that the repairman had not connected the ground on the fridge thermostat and was excited that this would be the problem, but it was not. I'm guessing that I need to test the damper motor or make sure all the wiring is connected correctly (maybe the repairman got crossed) or try to figure out if maybe the board is bad (I have two of those - spare parts, used - you know, tried both no luck). What should I do next? Thanks!!!
This is the part you need. It's an update kit with wire harness. Be sure to use the new wire harness or the damper won't work. The wire harness will eliminate one of the damper microswitches and the contacts in the thermostat if it exists.

Turn the refrigerator control to the off position and leave the freezer control where it it set. Some refrigerator cold controls won't have the word off anywhere but you can feel it in the knob. The damper should close. If you have replaced the damper and refrigerator cold control then the problem is the adaptive defrost board (update kit).
5303918476 Adaptive Defrost Control Board
OK, sounds good. Follow the instructions that come with the part. Keep us posted
Rick, I installed the board and harness and have given it some time, but the fridge part is still freezing. I did go back and look at the repair video, which shows a fridge temp control with only two connections. The new one that the repairman put in mine has three and the old wiring harness had three. I am thinking that maybe I do not have them in the right spot. Do you know which two connections should go where when there are three options? Thanks, Jeanne
Rick got very busy running service calls.

Read the instructions carefully:

When replacing ADC I and ADC II with an ADC IV you will only use one of the two switches on the damper.

The switch next to the EPS foam block will be connected to the new control box wiring harness. The switch next to the motor is not used with an ADC IV. NOTE 3: The damper used with ADC I and ADC II had two switches connected to the ADC.

The ADC III and ADC IV only has one switch on the damper NOTE 4: The Wiring harness in the kit has a connector for the fast ice/fast freeze heater installed on the freezer control bulb. If the product you are servicing does not have a heater on the control bulb place the unused connector under the damper motor to keep it out of the way when you reinstall the control box.

7. Reinstall control box by first inserting the freezer control cap tube back in the pilot hole under the air outlet. Plug the control box back into the connector in the top of the food compartment liner. Reinstall the long screw behind the damper, push up on the control box and install the center screw in the front section of the control box. Now install the remaining screws in the control box including the screw between the water lines if the product has a front water filter. 8. Reconnect the product to electrical supply. Turn the food compartment control on make sure the damper will open all the way and the evaporator fan motor will run, turn the control back to Off and make sure the damper is closing all the way and the fan will shut off. Now turn the freezer control on and make sure the compressor, condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan motor are running. Place your hand in front of the damper and make sure no air is leaking around or through the damper. Now turn the food compartment control back on.

Jake, thanks, but the damper is not the issue. That was clear on the install video, I remember it as the connection closest to the main parts of the damper and it is connected correctly. The question is at the other end of the wiring harness, which is the refrigerator cold control or temperature control. It has three connection points and the old wiring harness has three connection wires. The new harness only has two connection wires, but there are still three possibilities. I connected them back by color, but I'm thinking that I will try to connect them like the install video which did not have the middle connection but had them on opposing sides. Will that hurt anything to try? I won't short out or mess anything else up will I? Thanks, Jeanne

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