How to bypass Maytag washer MAV7600AWW 4-wire lid switch? Also Not Spinning

[valle]

Model Number

MAV7600AWW

Brand

Maytag

Age

More than 10 years

Hi All! I want to make a jumper to bypass the lid switch on my Maytag washing machine so I can test it and run a test load (NOT lid lock - this model does not have a lid lock). It is 4 wire: red-machine, yellow-motor, black-line, and white-neutral. I have attached the circuit diagram sheet from inside the control panel. It looks like I can jumper together the line, motor and machine terminals, is this correct? I don't really know what the "link" thing does. And should I do anything with the neutral wire? It doesn't look like it needs to go anywhere. Thank you!

 

[Jake]

Another person asked this same question here:

FIXED - MAV6458AWW Maytag Washer Lid Switch...How do I bypass...4 wire harness

I do I bypass lid switch, it has a 4 wire harness.. The washer stopped mid cycle full of water and now won't do anything. Pretty sure it sounds like the lid switch, any thoughts???

www.applianceblog.com

Then I posted the answer in post #2.

Your model uses that exact same lid switch.

 

[valle]

Thank you, I actually had seen that. But had also seen: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/how-do-i-bypass-lid-switch-on-my-washer.1592/ which is my switch also. But Mad Mac said: "Check for continuity between the black (L1) wire and the red (SW) wire, and the white wire and the yellow wire with the lid open. In the closed position, check for continuity between the black wire and the yellow wire." Which doesn't seem correct? This would mean the the yellow wire change polarity to the motor, from neutral to line, when the lid goes from open to closed?

Could you humor me? Based on the wiring diagram why can't I just jump red, black and yellow together? Then according to the chart they would have continuity whether the lid is open or closed.

Thanks!

 

[valle]

Actually now I don't even think the switch is the problem. I took it the switch out, but still electrically connected and depressed the plunger with my finger and still the machine won't do anything! It had filled fine, but then nothing at all, no agitating, no noises, no attempts at anything, nothing, as if it was just off (but it's not, it's plugged in and the dial is pulled out). I tried moving the dial to a new option like drain and spin, but nothing at all. Where should I start? Thanks!

 

[valle]

Another update - now I wonder if I should start a new post because the problem has morphed. Went back to basics and tested the white and black coming into the machine - nothing! Turns out it had tripped the GFIC it was plugged into. Plugged it in elsewhere, depressed the lid switch by hand, humming noise but no action, then noticed smoke and burning smell came out of the cabinet and released switch plunger (( Stopped before tripped a breaker. It's not the control board, timer or anything in the control panel because I was watching those. Definitely coming from the bottom of the cabinet, used a flashlight and saw the smoke in there. Is this a dead motor? Or something less expensive to replace?

 

[valle]

Ok, now I'm down to the real problem after several red herrings, like something jammed under the machine keeping the belt from turning which caused the burning smell..... Now here is the real problem: machine fills fine, moves on to agitate fine, drains completely but then does NOT SPIN. No weird noises during any of the cycle. This would seem to rule out lots of things but what does it indicate is the problem? Thanks!

 

[valle]

Now I'm going to answer my own original question about how to bypass the 4-wire Maytag lid switch in case somebody else finds this because they want to know. I did not attempt an electrical bypass but a mechanical bypass worked perfectly! Simply pop the switch out of the cabinet, still with the electrical connector in place, and still with the gray plunger in place, and put a clamp over the body of the switch, positioned to keep the plunger depressed continuously. Then the machine thinks the lid is constantly closed and will run fine but you can still see inside and underneath to see what's working or not. So this thread is really "fixed", I'll open a new one if needed for my other issue. Thanks!

 

[Jake]

Ok, now I'm down to the real problem after several red herrings, like something jammed under the machine keeping the belt from turning which caused the burning smell..... Now here is the real problem: machine fills fine, moves on to agitate fine, drains completely but then does NOT SPIN. No weird noises during any of the cycle. This would seem to rule out lots of things but what does it indicate is the problem?

So the motor does run in Spin because you mentioned it drained the water, but it does not spin while and after the water has drained out? Does the belt look like it has a burnt spot on it?

Its possibly the trust bearing has gone out, that releases the brake and makes the inner tub spin.

You can see what @ChevyGuy mentioned in very good detail about that thrust bearing kit here:

MAV6200AWW Maytag Atlantis Washer not spinning

Maytag Atlantis washer. Agitator works: washes okay, but after rinse does not spin out excess water. Pump is functioning as water is removed from basket. When in Spin mode, I try to turn the drum/basket, but it is locked and frozen. In the past, I was able to rotate the drum endlesslessly...

www.applianceblog.com

Tilt the washer back and prop it safely, remove the belt, pop off the plastic dust cover from the transmission (center) pulley, and rotate the transmission pulley to test. Clockwise rotation is agitation, counterclockwise is spin after the brake is released...report your findings.

See the video listed in the Thrust Bearing Kit on appliancepartspros.com linked here:
12002213 Thrust Bearing Kit


At 03:10 in the repair video you'll see how the pulley and cam operate when things are working properly. Compare to yours.

Just for clarity, the outer drum is the solid-surface outer cylinder and it does not rotate. The inner tub is the perforated-surface inner cylinder that the clothes go in. It only rotates during spin, when the motor is actively driving the transmission pulley counterclockwise. At all other times...powered off, or in agitation (clockwise rotation) the brake is set and the tub can not rotate.

The washer only has three operating modes:

• fill: water valve(s) open releasing water into the tub & drum.
• agitate: agitator oscillating, brake locked and tub stationary.
• drain&spin: water pumped out discharge hose, brake released, agitator and tub rotating.

At any time when it's running, it's doing one of those three things. When you state that the rinse cycle worked, do you mean that it agitated and then drained & spun the stuff out correctly?

When you do the check (*unplug electrical cord*, tilt washer back, remove plastic dust cap, rotate pulley clockwise and verify smooth rotation of the agitator with no grinding, rotate pulley counterclockwise and verify brake release per the video followed by smooth rotation of the transmission housing and tub) you'll have a better idea of the problem.

Skip to 3:10 in this video to see what I'm describing for brake release:

Now I'm going to answer my own original question about how to bypass the 4-wire Maytag lid switch in case somebody else finds this because they want to know. I did not attempt an electrical bypass but a mechanical bypass worked perfectly! Simply pop the switch out of the cabinet, still with the electrical connector in place, and still with the gray plunger in place, and put a clamp over the body of the switch, positioned to keep the plunger depressed continuously. Then the machine thinks the lid is constantly closed and will run fine but you can still see inside and underneath to see what's working or not. So this thread is really "fixed", I'll open a new one if needed for my other issue. Thanks!

Thanks, that's good to know.

No, you don't need to open a new thread.

 

[valle]

Update: First let me explain that I have no prior experience with this Maytag washing machine, so I don't know what was wrong with it, or what is "normal". My neighbor was giving it away and it looked like a quality machine worth saving. It looked newer than my Whirlpool but they are both 2002 models. Okay, so I got underneath and moved the belt both directions, all 3 pulleys move very freely clockwise and moves, but with resistance, counter-clockwise. For about 2 seconds I could spin the tub by hand, but when I tried to spin the other direction it locked up. Then I tried the machine spin cycle again and lo and behold it SPUN! started/stopped several times and it spun every time. So I tried a full cycle. Everything worked, it made it through the full cycle EXCEPT I noticed these 4 things: 1- extremely loud, not in a grinding or abnormal way, just very very loud motor humming, 2- I can smell the motor, the front panel is off and definitely the motor smells like electrical - maybe normal I don't know, 3- agitation seems weak, super gentle back and forth, but I could be normal, 4- does NOT neutral drain, started to spin with a full tub of water. Hard to believe but point (4) is exactly the current problem with my Whirlpool machine in a different thread - which I hope to fix Monday with the neutral drain kit. But what to do for this one? Thanks!

 

[Jake]

1- extremely loud, not in a grinding or abnormal way, just very very loud motor humming,

Like in the video in this thread:

MAV6451AWW Maytag Atlantis Washer Won't Drain, Motor Smokes (Video Inside)

So, I'm stumped, which isn't difficult given my lack of mechanical know how. We've had this washer for a couple years and it's worked fine for what it is. About three days ago, it started a normal cycle and got to the spin/drain portion and started a loud hum and then we smelled smoke. It was a...

www.applianceblog.com

Your model uses the exact same motor:
WP21001950 Motor Assembly

 

[valle]

Thank you for all the help. I don't really think that's the problem here though. There was only smoke when a piece of wood was underneath obstructing the belt, now that's gone. I took a video with sound of the machine running on spin and its quite loud but consistent, second video. Then I tipped it and took off the belt and ran it again on spin. Now only the motor is running and it is quiet, first video. I don't think it's the motor (fortunately.) The two small pulleys turn freely and the drain pump is operating perfectly. The center pulley though turns freely clockwise and difficultly counter-clockwise. Does that reveal anything?

 

[Jake]

I took a video with sound of the machine running on spin and its quite loud but consistent, second video.

Your 2nd video isn't playing, can you reupload it again please?

The 1st video of the motor sounds fine.

The center pulley though turns freely clockwise and difficultly counter-clockwise. Does that reveal anything?

Ok, when you turn the transmission pulley counter-clockwise and it should be turning the tub to spin, that's the spin direction. So that sounds like possibly a transmission problem.

Clockwise is the agitation direction.

Here's the transmission for your model: Transmission 35-6615

 

[valle]

Shortened the video clip to meet the size limit. It's much much louder with the belt on turning the tub. Could it be a bad tub bearing? When I search for "washing machine sound like a small jet engine" that's what they say. Should the noise sound different if its in agitate vs spin for either of the two potential problems to help differentiate between them.

The tub DOES turn when I turn the pully counter-clockwise, it's just takes more effort, but maybe that makes sense, as it's alot more weight then just the agitator?
Thanks.

 

[Jake]

Yes, I heard it now in that video.

You have 2 spin bearings, upper and lower, I'd check the lower bearing first to see if it turns rough or smooth. Unfortunately, both the spin bearings are no longer available new from the factory anymore.

Here's the lower spin bearing:
12001562 Bearing Assembly (lower)


In order to access the lower bearing you would need to remove the thrust bearing and the brake assembly from the unit. The brake tool to release the brake spring is No Longer Available. A member back in Dec. 2008 was able to use longer screws in place of the shorter screws to release the brake spring pressure, thus avoiding the need to purchase the brake tool: FIXED Admiral washer LNC6760B71 snubber

Here's the thrust bearing kit and video that shows the way to remove and replace it first to get to the lower spin bearing.

12002213 Thrust Bearing Kit




Then once you have removed the thrust bearing kit and brake spring, then there will be 3 bolts you have to remove to get access to the lower spin bearing. Once the bearing is removed turn it both ways to see if it turns rough or smooth, normal would be smooth.

 

[valle]

Thank you. While I'm waiting for parts to arrive can I re-ask my earlier question about whether it should start to spin with a full tub of water? On my Whirlpool washer this was a problem, is this somehow ok for a Maytag? Still seems awful heavy and quite a load on the motor. I just want to know if there is something else to fix while I'm in there disassembling.

 

[Jake]

While I'm waiting for parts to arrive can I re-ask my earlier question about whether it should start to spin with a full tub of water?

Yes, on this Maytag model it will drain while its spinning, that's normal.

 

[valle]

Another question. Ran another test load today to make sure so I can get everything all at one go if possible. Did NOT start spinning by itself, but did start and continue just fine for the rest of the cycle when I gave it just a small push in the first spin. First I turned off power and moved the belt by hand both directions, but that didn't help, only started spinning when I actually gave the basket some rotation by hand. Does this sound like belt or clutch? I've already ordered a belt. Thanks

 

[Jake]

Check the pivot spring and motor pivot plate.

The pivot spring puts tension on the motor mount clutch, so when the motor reverses for the drain/spin cycle, it turns the transmission pulley fast enough for proper draining/spinning.

I have seen that motor pivot spring plate get dirty and dry and cause that pivot plate not to make a smooth pivot transaction when the motor reverses, when it goes into the drain/spin cycle.

Lubricate that motor pivot plate when a compound like Sil-glyde lubricant, you can order or get at any appliance parts store in your area.

The motor itself moves back and forth on that pivot plate.

The lubrication goes on the pivot plate where the motor slide foot moves.

There is a white plastic slide foot mounted on the motor, that pivots with the direction the motor turns, if that slide foot pad is dry or dirty, it won't pivot correctly with a load in it, causing a slow/no drain/spin issue.

Here's the parts diagram for your model: Parts for Maytag MAV7600AWW: Base Parts #1 is the pivot spring, #10 and #14 are the slide feet.