My freezer was too warrm so I cleaned the coils. Freezer got super cold for about 48 hours then thawed again. I hear the periodic clicking sound and did the Start Relay rattle test and definitely have a broken-inside sound. I believe I need to replace it.
I have a Kenmore Coldspot model #106.53634300. Is the part number listed at the beginning of the thread the correct one for my model. Looking at the original part, I do not see corresponding numbering so need tto be sure before I purchase a replacement.
Thanks Jake, I think got it fixed. Sadly, I was unable to use the linked source for the part as, because of the coming weekend, it would have taken 4 days to arrive by 2nd day air. I found a universal replacement at a local appliance store that is compatible with my model. I replaced the part and the refer/freezer seems to be getting cooler after just a few minutes.
Thank you very much for the service you provide. Your troubleshooting steps were spot on target. Thankfully, you made it easy enough for an average guy to figure out what was wrong and to fix it.
I just replaced the relay and the capacitor, similar to the ones here, but now, with clean coils and all hooked back up, the compressor doesn't seem to be running, just my fan is running. How do you know if the compressor is running or not?
UPDATE: the compressor is getting hotter and hotter, the coils in front are not even warm. The freezer fan is blowing and temp is at 0 F, temp in fridge is 40 F. Compressor just doesnt seem to be running but if so, how is everything still cold? The relay fried last night about 3am, its now near 3pm and fridge has been opened several times.
Can't keep my hand on the top of the compressor its so hot, I guess I am unplugging this thing, I cant figure it out.
Ok, the condenser coils underneath from the front are clean?.
The compressor will be very hot till the temperature stabilizes, usually takes 24 hours, and you have to replace that back access panel, so the fan can draw the hot/warm air through the condenser and compressor out properly.
Your freezer temp should 0-10 degrees, your refrigerator temp. should be 36-40 degrees, so it sounds like its almost there.
All coils are clean, lower outside fan is working well, I replaced the back panel, left it plugged in, it seems to be working, the freezer is at 5 F, although this morning there are still items that are normally frozen solid that are still mushy,
I assume the compressor is running, it is still very warm this morning,
When closing the door, the refrig used to make a funny sucking, wheezing, cycling kind of noise when the door was shut, my wife had explained to me a few years ago that it was a suction device or something weird that was grabbing the moisture from the air that had just entered (makes no sense I know). The refrig does not make that funny cycling noise when the doors are shut and there seems to be more condensation in the freezer when I open it to check the temp.
I have a Whirlpool Side by Side Model# ED25PQXFW01. I have taken the start relay out and it rattles, so I plan on replacing that item. My question is if there isn't a kit available for my model should I also replace the overload at the same time or just use the existing one? Is there a way to test the overload to see if it's still good?
I looked at post #43 and they had pretty much the same thing as their model # was 106.54502300. Mine is 106.53502300. Is there a big difference in models as my cold stopped working, so I am attempting to fix the start relay (there is def the loose part on it). Also, I can't get it off the red and white wire and feel like I might break something, but I will figure that out. My main question is the replacement kit. Is it the same for both models? Thanks!
Same-day emergency install worked like a charm BUT still have problem with putting cover back on
I just wanted you to know that you saved my day and several hundred dollars of food! Yesterday my 25 cu. ft. Kenmore side-by-side started the symptoms you so greatly described... started after the freezer door was accidentally left cracked open on Sat. night and the compressor ran all night until we found the door open yesterday morning. We let it continue to run to try to cool down most of yesterday (big no-no, I know), until I realized it was blowing luke cool, not cold, air. I'm guessing the compressor overheated, blow the start relay. Hopefully no permanent damage. It also didn't help that there was an inch of pet hair on the coils either (will follow your separate recommendation to clean them at least every 6 months). That's all cleaned up, replaced the start relay today, and I'm back up and running.
I have one last follow-up question. I replaced only the start relay, 2262185, as you and searsparts told me to based on my model... luckily my local appliance supply had it in stock to do a same-day install. The fridge is running great now. I have one problem though. When I try to put the black plastic cover back around the relay and overload assembly, I get arcing from the relay and the clicks you describe as symptoms. I'm putting the wires back into the cover as tidy as I can, and don't see how there could be anyway they are crossing or touching. The only way to get the compressor back up is to unplug it, take the cover off and plug back in-- no arc and no clicks. Have you ever heard of this happening, and is it safe to simply leave the cover off? Or is this an indicator of another problem? As I said, I only replaced the relay, so hope the overload does not have a problem as well. Unfortunately I didn't read until now when I saw another cross-listed post of yours that when replacing the relay, it is also good to replace the overload too.
Thanks again for all of the information already! I am impressed with the depth of detail and knowledge on here. I'll be back again, for sure!