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FIXED How to replace a - Whirlpool/Kenmore Model 106 - Refrigerator Start Relay

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Jake

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Yes, its fine to just leave the cover off.:)

Yes, its good to replace the overload at the same time, but not necessary.

Jake
 

CJ305

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It worked, thanks so much for your help. I am not a do it your self guy, so thanks for walking me through it all!
 

Jake

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Glad to help.:)

Jake
 
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New Relay/Overload for Kenmore 10652224101 Worked Like a Charm

I have a Kenmore ColdSpot 10652224101 model fridge.

Within about 3 days my refrigerator lost it's ability to cool. First, the ice started to melt. It seemed to keep cool somewhat. The compressor would fire up sometimes and it would blow cold air. However, it got worse to the point that no cold air would blow at all. The center strip between the doors also wasn't hot like it often is.

I purchased a fridge brush and carefully cleaned the coils in front of and behind the fridge as best as I could. I wonder if dust on them ultimately contributed to this problem. However, cleaning them provided no help. It wouldn't cool at all.

The family was considering getting a new, cheaper, fridge rather than pay the $250 to renew the Sears Warranty or risk the $60 diagnostic cost plus the cost of repair.

I just couldn't go down that easy. So I kept at it. I noticed that the compressor was hot constantly while it was plugged in. However, it did not make the vibrating noise I am used to hearing from refrigerators. I also don't think the coils were very hot as they can get during normal operation.

I typed something like hot compressor Kenmore refrigerator into Google and found a forum explain a similar situation to mine and saying they replaced their relay/overload attached to the compressor and it worked out fine. Someone else also denoted the same thing.

I also found this thread and looked at the pictures and was glad more people were discussing a similar issue to mine.

I wrote down my fridge model number and also looked up the part I thought I would need the best I could from the sears parts website and wrote down that model number. We couldn't let our food rot while we waited for shipping, so I took this information to a local appliance shop and got the part (for unfortunately about double what it what it would have cost on Sears Parts Direct).

I also read this very interesting article on relays and overlays and also followed it's instructions to test out. The main thing I followed is it says if you shake your relay/overload and it rattles, it's fried. This was certainly the case, and even crumbles of metal fell from it out of the holes. (Strangely, though even on the new white part when you shake it, you can hear something hitting back and fourth in there).

I also followed the instructions to test my compressor using a multimeter. I had a lot more confidence when this test showed a good compressor.

I unplugged the existing one which was attached to the compressor and wrote down where the red, white, and blue cables connect to it for reference. Because I read about some fridges having capacitors that can severely shock, I didn't touch the metal couplings with my hands, but only pliers with rubber grips. The plastic protectors on them just crumbled. I also taped them off to help prevent them from touching anything.

I took the box into the appliance store, Berkley Appliance, and they looked it up from a model number on the device and handed me one that looked pretty much exactly like what I saw on the Sears website. And at least the overload protector looked like it does on this thread.

At first look at it all, I was troubled. The original part was a simple white box that I plugged in like a wall socket to the compressor and had 3 places to plug into. This new one was 2 separate parts. One of them which goes on the bottom of the compressor (Jake described as the overload) and the other one that goes on top has a place for 4 attachments. That's 5 attachment points total, when the original had only 3 and I only have 3 wires!

It came with no instructions. Nothing with the package or on the sears parts website. The guy at the counter asked the guy in the back what I would need the red wire they give you with the kit for since I'm just replacing the box. They had no answers. They just said put it in just like the old one.

At the store, like an idiot, I immediately tore open the package to inspect closer. They had already told me that once I opened the package the part was mine permanently; they wouldn't take it back. They said it's because they can't sell used parts and every other appliance place would have the same policy. Jake later told me that is not the case with Repair Clinic.

When I got home and really looked at it, I was confused to little end. I figured (and later confirmed with Jake) that the red wire that went to the bottom part on the old one would correspond to the bottom part on this new one. As for the other, at least there were little numbers next to the jacks on the new black piece. There was a 1 just like on the white box, no 2, a 3, and a 4 that was nothing but a little metal nub that you couldn't put the wire on without heavy Jerry rigging. The other connector had no number. The original box had you connect to numbers only 1 and 4 on the right and left. The new 1 also had too large a connector on it so I could not fit the wire on there! I was faced with a conundrum with 2 wires!

I didn't want to put it in wrong and risk further damage, so I called Berkley Appliance where I bought the part and asked what I should connect to. He suggested I don't use the nub where the 4 is, and I could try the 3 position for that (the blue) wire.

He wound up being right, but wasn't very reassuring.

I also called Sears and chose their parts option. The person who answered clearly didn't know anything about appliances and just wanted to know what time I wanted to have a man come out to fix it.

So I decided to talk with Jake. He was very polite and kind. He let me explain the situation. He said Repair Clinic has a return policy and a better kit than Sears and Berkley Appliance gives you that comes with 2 boxes and an instruction manual to put it in (imagine that!)

... and let me know the important issue is that one goes on the right and one goes on the left. (I wound up placing the blue wire on the 3 position which was on the right when installed). He also said that when used that kit, he uses the seemingly useless red cable they give you to connect to the 1 position (on the left) (which works) and then connects the other end of the red wire to the old white wire.

This made me feel a lot better and more confident to put it on and let the device run and see how it does.

All in all, it wound up working like a charm. The compressor immediately started making it's normal noise as soon as I plugged it in. I got cool air after a few minutes and by the end of the day, the fridge was pretty cold inside and was already making ice. It was fun hearing the family cheer for it every time we heard it make a cube. The next day it was pretty much to normal operating efficiency.

I also didn't notice any excess part hangover, so I didn't find a need to file anything down as some posters have talked about.

The fridge that the family wanted to replace and had no cool air was saved for only a $65.00 part!

And without forums and people like Jake's encouragement, I probably would have been too intimidated try it.

Thank you!
 

Hager084

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Ok, I've read this entire thread from page 1. My Kenmore started smoking on Sunday and I have been searching for a fix trying to avoid repair costs, which eventually led me here.

I purchased the Compressor Start Device Kit for the Kenmore model number 10652582200 and have one problem installing it that was brought up once on page 12 of this thread but never addressed fully. There are two white wires that lead to a female end of an adapter that then go into the male end of the start device. With the new kit, these now are supposed to lead to the white adapter that leads to the PTC. But the male and female ends fused together while overheating, and now cannot be inserted into the adapter. Even a dremel will not fix this.

Since this is the case, can I cut the two white wires, splice them, cut the new adapter that came with the kit, splice it, and attach it all together, basically bypassing the destroyed adapter?

From the pictures, I would be cutting the two wires from picture 1, then cutting the wire from picture and attaching them all together. Sorry for the blurry picture 1, but I think you can see the amount of metal that has been fused so the adapter is virtually destroyed.
 
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Jake

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Yes, thats what you'd have to do, cut those 2 white wires just below that destroyed adapter and splice them with that new white wire from the kit and you should be good to go.:)

Jake
 

Jake

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Thanks TigerCatBrandon for the detailed post, it was good talking to you.:)

Jake
 

Hager084

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It worked like a charm. I was mainly worried about the possibility of braided/insulated wires, but they stripped as easy as speaker wire and were just as easy to join with a wire nut.

I recently moved into a house and this refrigerator came with it, so I have had many other things to worry about than cleaning the fridge, but if I wasn't home this could have turned into a disaster.

After I installed the relay, prior to plugging the refrigerator in, I took my Dyson and cleaned the coils and everything else, and after it was all done, the vacuum was about halfway full, that was how dirty the unit was.

I threw a thermometer in the refrigerator after finally plugging it in and it has dropped from 66 degrees to 37 degrees in a matter of hours.

Jake, I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say I can't thank you enough. I can't believe this thread has been running for over five years and you still manage to respond to people's posts within a matter of a day. I called numerous appliance repair stores in my area and I never got a clear answer on how exactly to solve my issue, including calling Sears, where I bought the part from because I couldn't wait for shipping since my food was going to spoil soon, who said they couldn't answer questions about self-installation.

I will now clean the unit at least once a year since I now know the consequences that can arise from a dirty fridge. Again, thanks so much, Jake.
 

Jake

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Good job Hager084, glad its back to normal again.:)

Yes, I usually reply within 24 hours, unless I'm out of town or on vacation.

Jake
 

penguinknot

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Indiana
Same issue with Kenmore 106.51562104 but which part?

I am having the same issue as many people have described in this forum for my Kenmore 106.51562104. My freezer is not cold enough to keep anything frozen but the fridge (at least at this point) is still cool enough for milk, etc. I also have a clicking noise (every 2 minutes or so I get a click and then a 2nd click 10 seconds later - it sounds like the first click is drawing current while the 2nd is turning it back off) but my compressor is warm to the touch.

My question is which part I actually need to get?

Do I need the start-dev or overload relay?

Thanks!!
 

Jake

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Here's the one for your model your can order here:
Manufacturer's Number: 8201786
show

show
8201786

Jake
 

voorheisb

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Mass
Whirlpool Gold not cooling.

Good Morning Jake,

I came home yesterday to a warm fridge and freezer along with all of my food ruined. I googled and came across this thread. It seems that I am having the same symptoms (fridge has power, the fan is blowing but not cold on either side). I unplugged and removed my starter relay and shook it. It sounded like a box of marbles. I took it apart and it looks like something that used to resemble a metal disc was broken into about 20 pieces. Also, there were burn marks on the plastic like it had overheated.

I contacted the Repair Clinic and plan to order this part:

Start Device (part #1177466) from RepairClinic.com



However, before I do:
  1. I want to make sure it is the right part. My model is: GD5PHAXLQ01
  2. I want to make sure I'm getting everything I need. Is there anything else I should check that may have also gone bad?
  3. That I'm not wasting my money if whatever caused this to happen will also break the new one. What would cause this to break in this fashion?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian
 

Jake

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Hi Brian,

1. Yes, thats the correct part you will need.
2. Nope, thats the only part you will need.
3. The cause of that breaking is heat, you need to clean your condenser coil underneath your refrigerator every 6-12 months.:)

The main reason this part fails is a clogged condenser thats clogged with lint/pet hair full in the condenser which is located on the bottom of your refrigerator behind the front bottom kickplate grill. Just open both refrigerator and freezer doors, then pull that kickplate grill off, PULL HARD it just unsnaps.

Then get a vacuum cleaner to clean your condenser. Even better would be if you have an air compressor or shop vac to blow the condenser coils out, yes its a bit more messy on your kitchen floor, but it cleans it throughly.:)

Jake
 

sniper-ST10

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So I might have the same issue....I have a 2 year old whirlpool and it stop getting cold. It is not dusty or dirty the compresser coils are on the back. The evaporater systems is in the freezer and they are not getting cold. I cant tell if the compressor is working however it is getting hot. I took off the starter/relay and it is not making noises. Seems like there is no breakage as I use an ohm meeter and read across the leads on both sides.

Took it apart and the disc inside looks good......anythoughts...?
 
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Jake

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Then you have a bad compressor, you'll need Whirlpool to come out and change it for you under warranty.

Jake
 

voorheisb

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I'm sure Jake will respond and give you the answers you need. However, if the compressor is getting hot and your relay was intact then I'm sure you don't have the same issue I was having.

Did you check to see if any of your vents were blocked?
 

sniper-ST10

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swamps
So here is another million dollar question...I replaced a bad frig in my rv with this one. I live in Alaska so it gets a bit cold. I do use it some in the winter. I have a 1000 watt inverter for when I am on the road. Do you think this killed it? It worked fine for 1.5 years.

Will I get charged for anything on this and do I need my reciept? Also I plan on taking it out of the rv before before a tech comes in case that voids the warranty.
 

Jake

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Yes, that might have killed it.

Do you have your owners manual for it? It explains the warranty for the sealed system/compressor.

Some Whirlpool models don't even have a 5 yr. warranty anymore like they all used too.

Yes, it helps to have the receipt, but usually they get the warranty info from the serial# of your refrigerator.

Jake
 

sniper-ST10

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Yeah I called and they said it only had a year warranty and it was out...odd..since it is so new and I never registered it, how do they know when I bought it....?

Anything I can do in the future to make sure a new one lasts longer....?
 

Jake

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Well, I'm not saying that the inverter definitely killed it, but chances are good it did.

These home refrigerators shouldn't be in RV's as they are only designed to work in homes only with it plugged into a standard home outlet.

Can't you purchase a refrigerator just made to be put in RVs?

Jake
 
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