FIXED Ice Maker Help with KitchenAid KSRB25FKSS04 Side by Side

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speedemon

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Stockton, CA
Model Number
KSRB25FKSS04
Brand
KitchenAid
Age
1-5 years
Hi All

I have a KitchenAid refrigerator that’s only 2 years old and I’m having trouble with it not producing any ice. The model number is (KSRB25FKSS04). It’s the side by side model with the ice bucket on the door.

I’m not getting any water from the inlet tube into the ice tray to make ice. Someone mentioned I might have a bad water valve that’s not shutting off the water which may be freezing the inlet tube with ice due to dribbling water, but that’s not the case. The inlet tube is soft and is not iced up hard as mentioned.

Also mentioned were the infrared sensor assemblies from side to side that may be bad. I checked the red LED light on side, when the door is opened there’s two blinks follow a delay and two blinks and again followed a delay every two blinks. When the flapper is in the closed position I get a solid red LED light. The plastic ejector blades are pointed towards you or the front about the 7:00 position.

I was wondering if there’s something I can fix on my own before I call in a repair service. If someone may have a copy of the repair manual on this issue that can help me or if anyone can advise me with some help me I would appreciated it very much.

Thanks
 
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Jake

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Hi,


The plastic ejector blades are pointed towards you or the front about the 7:00 position.

You mean the 2:00 position?

The 7:00 position to me would mean that the blades are inside the ice maker molding cube slots, at the bottom around the 6:00 position.

Hmm, well it seems like everything you mentioned is as it should be.

Jake
 

speedemon

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Hi

Thanks for responding, no it is towards the bottom of the tray at the 7:00 position with the angle towards the front bottom of the tray.
 

Jake

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speedemon

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Hi There

I guess I need to clarified there is NO water going into the tray. The tray is dried and no ice at all. The ejector blades are pointed towards the bottom of the tray. I noticed it wasn’t making a few days ago. I lifted the icemaker access door and noticed there was an ice cube binding between the ejector blades and the icemaker unit. I removed the ice cube and the ejector blades continued on its cycle down. I checked towards the end of the day and noticed it wasn’t making new ice.
 
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speedemon

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Well today I went to Lowes and looked at some KitchenAid & Whirpool frig with icemakers like mines. All the ones I looked at had the ejector blades pointing towards the front about the 10:00 position. I'm wondering if the unit was damaged by an ice cube being caught between the ejector blade and the unit by not breaking free earlier? If so how would I really know if it's bad? I hate to go out and buy a unit not knowing this is really the fix. Also where is the best price on one of these units? I'm assuming this narrows it down to between the unit or the valve am I correct? And for the unit are the parts available or do you purchase a complete assembly? How easy is it to remove this unit out and to replace? If possible if someone the might know how to go about let me know.

Thanks in advanced!
 

Jake

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Yes, it still sounds like your module is broken, low pressure will make those ice cubes jam in there and break that module, Its very important to check your water pressure to your refrigerator before installing the new module.

Jake
 

speedemon

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Jake

I guess I don't understand the low presure. Is this the inlet presure coming from the valve out of the wall? It seems that there's plenty of presure from there and plenty of presure also coming out of the chilled water from the dispenser on the door. How would the presure effect an ice cube getting caught between the ejector blades and the unit? As the ejector blades cycle around it should push the cubes out of the tray and then drop them into the bucket correct? Some how one of the cubes didn't get into the bucket and as the blades came around that's when it got caught. When I noticed it wasn't making any ice that's when I lifted the access door to take a look and noticed the cube, so I pull the cube out and the blade proceeded to rotate around on it's cycle. What's the process of removing this unit? Is it a major job for a tech or is it something I can do on my own?

Thanks
 

Jake

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Low water pressure to the ice maker will only let the ice maker fill up maybe halfway, causing a premature harvest cycle, due to no water getting to the front part of the ice maker where the thermostat is located. This in turn may cause blades to get jammed or stuck in the cubes not being fully frozen and it to fill up again halfway to just make more of a mess from the first batch not coming out cleaning.

I would advise you to buy the repair manual from the link above or call a appliance company to do it.:)

Jake
 

speedemon

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Hey Guys


Here's the instructions on how to remove the ice maker:


1. Remove the bucket from the door to get some room.

2. Put a piece of tape on the sensor flapper to hold it down so you won't damage it while removing the ice maker.

3. Remove the ice maker service cover door by spreading the two hinge fingers apart away from the center and the door should lift out of the slot.

4. Remove the screw in the right rear bottom side of the ice maker.

5. After removing the screw that cover should lift up from the rear and just work it out from the rear and you see the electrical harness.

6. On the left track the should be a tab toward the bottom which you need to push up.

7. Push up tab and start working the ice maker towards you pulling it out of the track.

8. Careful with the electrical harness in the back as you're pulling out.

9. Disconnect the electrical plug by lifting the clip on the plug.

10. Remove the side cover on the side module by pulling off.

11. Remove the bottom shield by removing the 3 screws on the bottom.

12. To install reverse the order as it came out.

The part number is 2198597 which is a Factory Whirlpool part number.

I hope this will help anyone needing to replace a side by side Whirlpool or KitchenAid ice maker with a door bucket style ice maker.
 

Gurnee Bruce

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Feb 25, 2006
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Gurnee, IL
Mine too

I've just had the same problem pop up on my Kenmore. For the last year it's put out more ice than I can handle, big cubes. Now it's a dry hole.

The water input is a soft rubber, but I'm not convinced that something above the inlet isn't frozen. Also, we've seen white, powdery (like scale) deposits in the freezer section - slightly salty - as if sprinkled from the area of the icemaker. Weird.

Will try removing the icemaker to thaw it out and clean out what little remnants of ice cubes remain in the tray - maybe this and resetting it will help.
 

Jake

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Yes, you need to change them every 6-12 months depending on the hardness of your water.

Jake
 

sharky60

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Apr 22, 2006
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Location
Grand Prairie, TX
same problem...

kitchen aid 25 s-by-s...

i've already replaced the ice maker...nothing. no cycling, nothing.

I am not getting any water fed into the maker, i don't hear the water being pumped at all.

is there a seperate pump from the pump that puts the water out the door?

Where do I look for the sensor lights? red flashing and red continuous? is that on the little box mounted to the right side bulkhead just below the ice maker? I don't think I'm getting anything there, but need to double check,

anybody got an idea what a new sensor costs?

thankx!!
 
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speedemon

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The inlet valve is split, one side goes to the chilled water and the other goes to the icemaker. In the valve are two solenoids. These solenoids do go bad at times. To change the valve is an easy job. It would take roughly about 30 minutes or so. So don't qoute me on this problem, but this is where I would start since you have already installed a new icemaker and assuming your inlet tube tip at the icemaker isn't frozen.
 

sharky60

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Location
Grand Prairie, TX
The inlet valve is split, one side goes to the chilled water and the other goes to the icemaker. In the valve are two solenoids. These solenoids do go bad at times. To change the valve is an easy job. It would take roughly about 30 minutes or so. So don't qoute me on this problem, but this is where I would start since you have already installed a new icemaker and assuming your inlet tube tip at the icemaker isn't frozen.
Thanks, I'll give it a shot.
 

Netpog

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Apr 13, 2010
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Brookline, MA
An easy FIX if icemaker fails after a repair or a start-up

After repairing my KSRS27SS13 (condenser-fan failure, so that compressor's starter-relay cooked), my ice maker wasn't delivering ice.

Probing with my finger, I discovered ice in there that wasn't being ejected. Searching these forums, the consensus seemed to be "replace the unit".

But I don't believe in such coincidences (the ice-maker *happened* to fail after the repair?). On a hunch, I repaired it with these two steps:

1) Poured a half-cup of hot water on top of those stuck cubes.

2) After a moment, pressed down on plastic the ejector blades until they un-stuck (they budged a tiny bit).

A minute or two later, the cubes popped out, and the tray refilled!

Of course, the tray over-filled into the bin, and the first-batch cubes were messy. Both of these because of that hot water, but I just emptied the cube-storage tray.

A week later, it's still working fine. I'm guessing that this is a design flaw: when the unit starts up from room temperature, with water in the tray from when it last shut down, it must freeze-up and become jammed in a way that doesn't happen in normal use.

So you might not need parts for this fix, but if you do need parts, do support this forum by buying them by using the links on the "Look-Up & Order Appliance Parts" page, in the nav-bar above.

Thanks, Jake, for all the help!
 

Jake

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Thanks Netpog, thats the way to fix it, but if in time it keeps jamming, then replacing the ice maker would be the permanent fix, as they have improved the ice maker motor, the ice stripper and ejector arm.:)

Jake
 
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