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IF71CM33NW Idylis 7.1 cu ft freezer- similar question

dasherbravo

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2020
Messages
7
Location
oklahoma
Model Number
IF71CM33NW
Brand
-brand-
Age
1-5 years
I have the same model freezer as Benzyoc had issues with back in Feb. of this year but I'm uncertain as to what his symptoms were so I am unsure if the fix provided by the Appliance Tech who responded, Dan O., would be the same for my issue. Link to Benzyoc's issue:


The freezer is not running- when I cycle power at the switch, I get about 5-10 seconds of a hum that sounds like it's wanting to start up but then it clicks and stops humming.

Is this the same relay combo kit fix as described at the above link or something different?

Again, this is an IDYLIS brand freezer-

I am attaching photos for reference if that helps- thanks in advance.

dasherbravo
 

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dasherbravo

Premium Member
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Messages
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Location
oklahoma
Thanks... my Fluke meter does continuity/resistance on the same setting and it tones out between all 3 pins regardless of which 2 i'm reading between- the pins are oriented as shown in the top graphic, left side and the readings are as follows:

C-S = 7Ω

C-R = 9Ω

S-R = 15Ω just in case this helps in determining any issues

Any pin to chassis ground is infinite

And, btw, not sure this matters but there is no Start Cap on this model, only a Run Cap as shown in one of the pics in my original post.

I am not sure what the bottom graphic is showing, is this the relay/connector that connects to the compressor pins?

Thanks for your help!

adding another photo if it helps
 

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Last edited:

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
40,252
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Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Replace the relay/overload/start device. I have no resources for parts on that machine.
 

dasherbravo

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2020
Messages
7
Location
oklahoma
more info:

this has happened twice now. i walk away from it because i'm stumped and either do more research or get busy with something else- so, after awhile, i go back and rotate the power switch back on again and the compressor kicks in and stays running.

the first time this happened, i though ok, i had just checked the connections by wiggling them a bit so maybe that was the issue but in haste, i started putting it back together and was placing the door with the power switch/temo control back into place and bumped the back of the temp control into the chassis and tripped the GFI... so i started all over with the same issues, not working

second time, walked away again, returned about 30 minutes later i guess and the compressor kicks on again and is still running.

based on the above readings from the windings, i think i'm good there so...

what is it, can something be loose inside the compressor that's causing it to engage intermittently or is it something like the temperature control? or, like you replied, this is in line with replacing the relay/overload/start device?

i'm stumped but glad i haven't run out and bought an replacement parts/freezer yet if it's still a doable fix for me
 
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dasherbravo

Premium Member
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Nov 5, 2020
Messages
7
Location
oklahoma
can i replace it with a 3in1 relay combo kit like the one linked here?

this has been previously identified to be a good replacement part for this model:
 

rickgburton

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A 3-IN-1 will destroy pc boards and compressors from the voltage spike of the start capacitor so no, don't use it.
 

dasherbravo

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Messages
7
Location
oklahoma
one more addition... after the freezer reaches temp and the compressor shuts off, it doesn't want to come back on once the temp rises again- i can hear the relay click (due to the signal from the thermostat i suppose) and it hums for about 10 seconds but then the overload kicks it back off as the compressor isn't starting up... ??? !!!
 

dasherbravo

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Messages
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Location
oklahoma
A 3-IN-1 will destroy pc boards and compressors from the voltage spike of the start capacitor so no, don't use it.

the particular 3in1 i linked to doesn't have a start cap but a run cap and i do not have any electronic control boards in this unit, same advice?
 

rickgburton

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All 3-IN-1's use a start cap, not a run cap. A run cap is not necessary for the compressor to run properly so leave it off and use a solid state relay/overload:
 

dasherbravo

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Messages
7
Location
oklahoma
Thanks again... did you see the additional info/symptoms i posted above as well, this may change things but am unsure.
 

rickgburton

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Messages
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Location
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C-R = 9Ω
My bad, I missed this. Your compressor is shot! I was about to write, "If the compressor checked good........That's when I noticed it. Sorry my friend!
 
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