FIXED Ikea/Whirlpool "Nutid" single wall oven IBS550PWS00 Dead No Display/No Power

[kdiffily]

Model Number

IBS550PWS00

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

More than 10 years

Our Ikea/Whirlpool "Nutid" single wall oven IBS550PWS00 is completely Dead No Display/No Power. We last used it a week ago at a high temp (500) to cook pizza and it was fine and then we noticed over the weekend that it was completely dead. Repair person said electricity is coming in, so needs a new control board at $700. This is an 11 yr old oven that cost $1000 in 2011 (that we got for $800) so $700 investment seems crazy.

I *think* I could handle installing the part, but I'm seeing 2 "control boards" for this model:

Whirlpool WPW10158965 Cntrl-Oven (AP6015938) - AppliancePartsPros.com

CNTRL-OVEN WPW10158965 / AP6015938 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

and

Whirlpool WPW10158972 Electronic Control Board (AP6015939) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Electronic Control Board WPW10158972 / AP6015939 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

and I'm not sure which one is likely the culprit and what the difference between the 2 parts is.

Also, reading forums here, I wonder if the thermal fuse/High-Limit Thermostat (https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/WP9759243/1061376) is the actual culprit? Any input is appreciated!

 

[Jake]

I'm posting your tech. data sheet below and also a service bulletin pertaining to the thermal fuse.

Now on the tech. data sheet it says you have a control panel thermal fuse, look on Page 1 where it says THERMAL FUSE, not the oven shutdown thermal fuse.

I could not find that control panel thermal fuse on your parts list.

Ohm test the control panel thermal fuse first for continuity. Make sure you disconnect power to your oven before you ohm test the control panel thermal fuse.

Here's the thermal fuse kit for your model:

Whirlpool W10625528 Thrmst-Fix (AP5803432) - AppliancePartsPros.com

THRMST-FIX W10625528 / AP5803432 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

It includes both the control panel thermal fuse and oven shutdown thermal fuse.

Jake

 

[kdiffily]

control panel thermal fuse, look on Page 1 where it says THERMAL FUSE, not the oven shutdown thermal fuse

I'm a total newbie but trying to educate myself and maybe avoid a huge $$ expenditure. So bear with my very basic questions:

Can you point me to instructions for testing the control panel thermal fuse for continuity?
By disconnect power, do you mean just turn off the breaker?

Also, to clarify -- the THERMAL FUSE shown on Page 1 of the tech sheet is actually a control panel thermal fuse? What's the difference b/w the control panel thermal fuse and the oven shutdown thermal fuse (which I also see on the tech sheet)? Does oven shut down only dissable heating elements (and if so is not presumably my problem)? What about repair person's diagnosis (for $130) of needing new control board?

Interestingly, when the oven was about a year old in Nov. 2012 (before this 2013 service bulletin) we ran self clean for the first time and it completely fried the oven's electronics. It was under warranty at the time and my recollection is that the repair person serially replaced basically every part before finally finding the culprit, which if I had to guess was the control panel. We've obviously never run self clean since and its been fine since then until last week . . .

 

[Jake]

This video below shows you how to ohm test a thermal fuse for continuity. Yes, turn the breaker off to the oven.

Yes, the control panel thermal fuse kills power to the control panel, the oven shut down thermal fuse just kills power to the heating elements, but the control panel would still work.

If both thermal fuses ohm test good, then the control board the tech. mentioned would be the culprit.

Jake

 

[kdiffily]

Thanks so much Jake. I went ahead and ordered that thermal fuse service kit you mentioned and a multimeter. If the fuses test OK, I'll try the control board (ordered as well) -- but which one? I see 2 for my model: WPW10158965 and WPW10158972.

 

[Jake]

If you look at your wiring diagram schematic you will see where the power comes in to the control panel.

(click to enlarge)


Look where it says Control Power Transformer, the black and white wires should have 120 volts AC and then the blue wires that go out should have 12 to 24 volts AC to your main control board WPW10158972 That's where you also see that Control Panel Thermal Fuse on the blue wire to JP03-2 to your main control board.

Then if you look at JP04 on the main control board, that goes to your Gemini board WPW10158965 which goes to the display board.

Here's the Control Power Transformer for your model:
WP9760587 Transformer


So the tech should of ohm tested the Control Panel Thermal Fuse FIRST and if that was good, then he should of done a voltage test to confirm which part is bad instead of just assuming the control board was bad.

So unless you have the time and patience to do all that testing, then the only way to repair this machine is to order and replace both boards and the Control Power Transformer.

Jake

 

[kdiffily]

Cheapest part was the fix — installed new control panel thermal fuse and oven works again! Plus used this as an opportunity to clean the heck out of it inside and out — it was pretty grimy/nasty after 11 years! Thanks a ton for empowering this middle aged mom to feel a little badass here. Take that “it will be an $800 repair” repair guy! (Who btw clearly did not even open the control panel or test the fuse for continuity. Gonna call and see if I can get my $120 back — doubtful but it’s worth a try!)

 

[Jake]

Excellent @kdiffily glad to hear the new control panel thermal fuse fixed it.

Thanks for the update!

Jake