NXTreme
Premium Member
- Model Number
- YIED7200TW
- Brand
- Age
- 1-5 years
Hey all! I'm new to the forums, and I've come with some questions about a malfunctioning dryer (did I come to the right place? 
). I did not post this in one of the manufacturer sub-forums as none of them were applicable to the dryer in question, an Inglis #YIED7200TW. A bit about myself so you know my level of "electronics education." I'm an almost completely self-taught electronics hobbyist; I like to tinker with microcontrollers, sensors, and fix any electronic/mechanical device I can such as cellphones, computers and now dryers! I am competent with both a soldering iron and a multi-meter, though I definitely don't have the experience that a professional repairman would! I've been a part of quite a few online forums focused on electronics of various sorts over time, so I have some idea of the etiquette expected, but please let me know if there is something I should be aware of in that regard!
As the thread title states, I'm trying to fix an Inglis dryer (electric heat) that is not heating, though the tumbler (or drum, which of the two is considered the "proper" term?) still rotates normally. The dryer is my aunt/uncle's, they originally called the "official" repairman but he stated that it was faulty main control board, which would be about $380 to replace, and he suggested buying a new dryer. This conclusion surprised me as it is a new-ish dryer (just under five years) that has been taken care of quite well. My uncle ran it with the exhaust duct disconnected with the same result, which I believe rules out a problem in the exhaust ducting. It's been used as is with no heat for at least a month, and my aunt has noticed the back of the unit getting warm at least twice, though the wet laundry stays cool. When I took it apart to test components I vacuumed it out thoroughly, though as it has been taken care of there was what I'd consider a minimal amount of lint in it. I checked all the vents and tubing for blockage and found none. This leads me to believe it's an electrical issue.
Searches of the forum here have revealed two relevant threads that have helped to a degree: [http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/30841-inglis-whirlpool-dryer-yied7200tw-how-to-replace-heat-element], and [http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/40738-Inglis-Dryer-No-heat]. The former of those links led me to two very helpful documents posted by 'jeff1' that I've been using to diagnose my dryer problems. Some parts numbers have not corresponded to those in the machine I'm working on, such as the main control board which is model #MDE27 on the machine but #MDE6700 in the technical information document jeff1 posted. Nonetheless, I think I've tracked the problem down to a faulty thermistor. I will post my tests below for the experts, the measurements were all taken at approximately 24 °C and with the wires back to the control board disconnected. I've taken the part naming from the technical information document.
The only anomaly I see is that of the thermistor, measured both at the sensor and at the control board it seems to have failed "open." Another thing of note, the door switch terminology used in the technical information document is confusing, as well as being reversed in logic according to my measurements. I also got into the diagnostics with the help of the document, I'll explain that below. I ran the LED/switch check for the fun of it, everything checks out fine.
I accessed the diagnostic codes by holding 'Chime' and 'Temperature' for three seconds and then pressing 'Wrinkle Prevent' (I don't know about you, but diagnostics usually cause me wrinkles, they don't prevent them!). I then rotated the dial clockwise, getting the following.
I'm partly confused by the result, as the 11 code and the -- code do not appear in the diagnostic codes in the technical information document. The 02 code would line up with what I tested myself though, a faulty thermistor! The 10 code is also somewhat confusing to me, what could I gather from it?
As per the manual, I also pressed the 'Start/Pause' button to get the number of cycles ago that the individual codes occurred at. One additional thing I noticed is that the 'Control Lock' LED lit up when the 02 code was displayed, and only when that code was displayed. I'll add the cycle count below the codes here.
Does the machine remember codes and cycle counts despite a loss of power? I've unplugged it several times while tinkering with it, and we've also had several power outages due to heavy snow fall and downed trees last week, can I still rely on the codes being accurate?
That is all I can dig out of my brain and notes for now, I hope it's a sufficient starting point! I did take some pictures along the way, if they might be useful you can find them here [https://plus.google.com/photos/114837171770523347098/albums/6059867786848213985]. I'm sorry if I did ramble on, it seems like transferring all my mental notes to paper makes them twice as long. Maybe I should start compressing them...
!
). I did not post this in one of the manufacturer sub-forums as none of them were applicable to the dryer in question, an Inglis #YIED7200TW. A bit about myself so you know my level of "electronics education." I'm an almost completely self-taught electronics hobbyist; I like to tinker with microcontrollers, sensors, and fix any electronic/mechanical device I can such as cellphones, computers and now dryers! I am competent with both a soldering iron and a multi-meter, though I definitely don't have the experience that a professional repairman would! I've been a part of quite a few online forums focused on electronics of various sorts over time, so I have some idea of the etiquette expected, but please let me know if there is something I should be aware of in that regard!As the thread title states, I'm trying to fix an Inglis dryer (electric heat) that is not heating, though the tumbler (or drum, which of the two is considered the "proper" term?) still rotates normally. The dryer is my aunt/uncle's, they originally called the "official" repairman but he stated that it was faulty main control board, which would be about $380 to replace, and he suggested buying a new dryer. This conclusion surprised me as it is a new-ish dryer (just under five years) that has been taken care of quite well. My uncle ran it with the exhaust duct disconnected with the same result, which I believe rules out a problem in the exhaust ducting. It's been used as is with no heat for at least a month, and my aunt has noticed the back of the unit getting warm at least twice, though the wet laundry stays cool. When I took it apart to test components I vacuumed it out thoroughly, though as it has been taken care of there was what I'd consider a minimal amount of lint in it. I checked all the vents and tubing for blockage and found none. This leads me to believe it's an electrical issue.
Searches of the forum here have revealed two relevant threads that have helped to a degree: [http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/30841-inglis-whirlpool-dryer-yied7200tw-how-to-replace-heat-element], and [http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/40738-Inglis-Dryer-No-heat]. The former of those links led me to two very helpful documents posted by 'jeff1' that I've been using to diagnose my dryer problems. Some parts numbers have not corresponded to those in the machine I'm working on, such as the main control board which is model #MDE27 on the machine but #MDE6700 in the technical information document jeff1 posted. Nonetheless, I think I've tracked the problem down to a faulty thermistor. I will post my tests below for the experts, the measurements were all taken at approximately 24 °C and with the wires back to the control board disconnected. I've taken the part naming from the technical information document.
- (Exhaust) thermistor = ∞ Ω
- (Exhaust) thermostat 1 = 0.0 Ω
- (Heating element) thermostat 2 = 0.0 Ω
- (Heating element) thermostat 3 = 0.1 Ω
- Heating element coil = 9.6 Ω, also checked for shorts between metal shroud and the element itself and found none.
- Door switch when close, COM and NO are connected, NC is floating.
- Door switch when open, COM and NC are connected, NO is floating.
- Pink wire pin 4 to Orange wire pin 5 is stated to be "sensor bars" (humidity sensor?), I only measured it without wet clothes, it measured ∞ Ω.
- Blue wire pin 2 to Red wire pin 6 is stated to be the "cycling thermostat", it measured ∞ Ω. However, from the wiring diagram in the technical information document I believe to actually be the thermistor, not a thermostat.
The only anomaly I see is that of the thermistor, measured both at the sensor and at the control board it seems to have failed "open." Another thing of note, the door switch terminology used in the technical information document is confusing, as well as being reversed in logic according to my measurements. I also got into the diagnostics with the help of the document, I'll explain that below. I ran the LED/switch check for the fun of it, everything checks out fine.
I accessed the diagnostic codes by holding 'Chime' and 'Temperature' for three seconds and then pressing 'Wrinkle Prevent' (I don't know about you, but diagnostics usually cause me wrinkles, they don't prevent them!
). I then rotated the dial clockwise, getting the following.
Code:
( d) - (02) - (11) - (10) - (--)I'm partly confused by the result, as the 11 code and the -- code do not appear in the diagnostic codes in the technical information document. The 02 code would line up with what I tested myself though, a faulty thermistor! The 10 code is also somewhat confusing to me, what could I gather from it?
As per the manual, I also pressed the 'Start/Pause' button to get the number of cycles ago that the individual codes occurred at. One additional thing I noticed is that the 'Control Lock' LED lit up when the 02 code was displayed, and only when that code was displayed. I'll add the cycle count below the codes here.
Code:
( d) - (02) - (11) - (10) - (--)
0 22 25Does the machine remember codes and cycle counts despite a loss of power? I've unplugged it several times while tinkering with it, and we've also had several power outages due to heavy snow fall and downed trees last week, can I still rely on the codes being accurate?
That is all I can dig out of my brain and notes for now, I hope it's a sufficient starting point! I did take some pictures along the way, if they might be useful you can find them here [https://plus.google.com/photos/114837171770523347098/albums/6059867786848213985]. I'm sorry if I did ramble on, it seems like transferring all my mental notes to paper makes them twice as long. Maybe I should start compressing them...
!
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