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FIXED Issue Using Timed Drying Heat

this_is_nascar

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2005
Messages
52
Location
Gloucester, NJ
Model Number
110.62952100
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
My wife always uses the timed-drying setting on our Kenmore unit. This unit has something called a Wrinkle Guard II. Recently, my wife has informed me that when the dryer stops after its 90-minute timed-dry cycle, the clothes and inside of the dryer is burning hot when the cycle completes. We always use the "Ultra Delicate/Extra Low" temperature setting, which is one step warmer than the "Air Fluff/No Heat" setting.

Up until now, my wife says the clothes and inside of the dryer are normally only slightly warm (and even cool for the most part) at the end of the cycle, whereas now, they are extremely hot. It almost feels that it's drying on the hottest drying setting and not lowering in temperature toward the end of the cycle. Doing some testing, it seems the cycle is fine at the 30-minute mark or so, but sometime after that is when all the additional heat is being produced. It also seems to be now that even on the "Air Fluff/No Heat" cycle, heat is being produced throughout the entire cycle, whereas it should be producing no heat at all on that cycle.

Any advise or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


 

jeff1

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rickgburton

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You'll need a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) also known as a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter). It's almost a necessary tool for any appliance repair but comes in handy for many other repairs also. You can purchase a good one for around twenty bucks. If you do invest in one, be sure to take the time to read the manual and learn how it works. They are actually quite easy to use when you know what you're doing and how they work. You can pick one up at any of the home centers or places like Radio Shack. Here's a good one that has all the settings you'll need. It's one of the best ones I've seen for the money.

Digital Multimeter DM10T Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
Digital-Multimeter-DM10T-01128790.jpg
 

rickgburton

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Your machine uses the "Even Heat" electronic control and Heater Relay. A common problem when the electronic control failed was, it would heat in Air Fluff. Without a DMM, first do what Jeff said check the element by physically inspecting it to see if it's touching the side of the element housing. Be sure to unplug the machine. If the element looks good, and doesn't appear to be touching the sides of the housing, remove the back of the console. You'll see two identical relays. One is for the motor and the other is for the element. Swap the wires from one to the other and start the machine on air fluff, timed dry. If the motor won't start or has trouble starting or if the element does not turn on, the problem will be that heater relay. If nothing changes, there's a good chance (about 90%) the problem will most likely be the electronic control. Now, with a DMM we go from 90% to 100% diagnosing the faulty part.

Even Heat Console Components.jpg


Dryness Control Board W10116565 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
Dryness-Control-Board-W10116565-00699963.jpg
 

this_is_nascar

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2005
Messages
52
Location
Gloucester, NJ
dt830b.jpgProbably not the greatest, but I did find this one that I forgotten I had in the camper. It's a DT830B that I got years ago and never used. It should serve the purpose of doing these tests.
 

this_is_nascar

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2005
Messages
52
Location
Gloucester, NJ
Another question............ since the temperature and produced heat during the 1st 30-40 minutes of a timed-dry cycle is what it should be, would that rule-out the heating element as being an issue or not really. I understand the only way to truly rule it out is to perform the test you suggested, but due to the location of the dryer, if I can avoid the need to get to the back of the unit, that would be helpful. I'm assuming the heating element is accessed through the back/bottom, down by the exhaust hole.
 

jeff1

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I'm assuming the heating element is accessed through the back/bottom, down by the exhaust hole

Lower panal comes off for a peek...
LINK> Whirlpool Dryers | Appliance Aid

Link I left you at the beginning.
Can't rule out stuff without checking/diagnosing.

jeff.
 

rickgburton

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You need to check it. Remove the lower front panel to access it. You will still need to get behind it to access the console.
 

rickgburton

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Yes they are up top and it is where all the controls are. Unless you plan to grab the knobs and pull those controls through the front of the console and sheet metal, you're going to need to get behind it my friend.
 

this_is_nascar

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Gloucester, NJ
OK, thanks. I was watching a video where it showed that the top panel lifts up and back from the front, exposing everything. Maybe I was watching a video for a differert dryer, but it sure looked like mine.
 

rickgburton

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Oops, you're correct. I thought you had the older style and you have the newer style. My bad, sorry about that. You won't need to remove the top. Remove the two end caps (#14 & #18) and then the two screws (#12) and the console will fold up to access the electronics.
 

this_is_nascar

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Messages
52
Location
Gloucester, NJ
Well, because of the ease of location versus accessing/testing the heating element, I replaced the Heater Relay and the Even Heat Control Assembly. I quickly tested in the Air Fluff setting, but still had heat produced during that cycle. I guess I'm forced to test the Heating Element. At this point is there any reason not to think it's this item that is broken?
 

this_is_nascar

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Joined
Nov 24, 2005
Messages
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Location
Gloucester, NJ
I know that I keep beating this to death, so I really appreciated all the help. The reason I'm so reluctant to do anything with the heating element, unless absolutely necessary is due to what I'd have to go through in order to get to it. I have to do so much "stuff" in order to get the dryer moved from where it's located to access the back that it isn't even funny. That's why, I want to eliminate whatever I can before I have to access the back or the back bottom (where I'm assuming the heating element is located). I know you guys are thinking, why is is this guy not doing the simple test of the element to rule that out, however to get to that is a nightmare.

In addition, I continue to question that the heating element is a problem, because I am getting heat. I'm also getting heat at different temperatures, as you'd expect on various cycles. Everything I've read about a grounded or broken element tells me that heat is much less (1/2 or less) when the element is broken. That's not the case here. I get plenty of heat, it's just occurring when it's not supposed to.

That being said, do you think the timer would be worth replacing next?
 

rickgburton

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The reason I'm so reluctant to do anything with the heating element, unless absolutely necessary is due to what I'd have to go through in order to get to it. I have to do so much "stuff" in order to get the dryer moved from where it's located to access the back that it isn't even funny.
If you watched the link Jeff gave you, you would know the element is accessible from the front behind the lower panel. You don't need to get behind the dryer. If you don't have time to fix it right the first time, when will you find time to fix it again?
 
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