• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake
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JE2160SF03 Microwave blows fuse, trips circuit breaker

hodograph

Premium Member
Joined
May 14, 2014
Messages
7
Location
Melbourne, FL
Model Number
JE2160SF03
Brand
GE
Age
More than 10 years
Was cooking vegetables the other night. At the end of the cook time, the microwave beeped as usual, and then completely shut down. Display is blank, light doesn't come on when I open the door. Food is cooked though. Circuit breaker is tripped however.

Replaced the 20 Amp ceramic fuse on the board where the power cord initially enters the microwave, everything comes back to life. Cooked more food tonight, same thing happened.

Any thoughts or tests I can run to repair it? TIA
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
39,775
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The latch actuator might need to be adjusted or maybe a faulty microswitch. Check the microswitches for continuity by opening and closing the door. The monitor microswitch, also called the deadman switch is designed to keep the mag tube from turning on if the door is open. It does this by shorting L1 and N together blowing the 20 amp fuse.
Latch Actuator WB06X10498
Latch-Actuator-WB06X10498--01505794.jpg

Micro Switch WB24X10103
Micro-Switch-WB24X10103-01391149.jpg
 

hodograph

Premium Member
Joined
May 14, 2014
Messages
7
Location
Melbourne, FL
Thanks for your reply.

All three microswitches passed the continuity test.

In testing the switches, I likely disassembled more than what was required, so I readjusted the latch alignment in the process.

It's all back together, and I was able to heat a mug of water for 1 and 2 minute cycles w/o tripping fuses or breakers. When these previously tripped it was after a 4 (or longer) minute cycle, which I haven't run yet, so I don't think I've really tested the system.

I also don't believe I've actually fixed anything--in the likely event that I bust circuits/fuses the next time, what's next to check?
 

hodograph

Premium Member
Joined
May 14, 2014
Messages
7
Location
Melbourne, FL
It passed the 5 minute cycle (large glass bowl of water) test.

I'm still not convinced I've done anything, but at the same time pleased that it works again. I'll be cautiously optimistic over the next couple of weeks.

Thanks again for your assistance!
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
39,775
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I'm still not convinced I've done anything,....
You replaced the fuse. They can wear out over time. You adjusted the latch assembly. If the monitor switch is activated a fraction of a second before the other switches the fuse will blow.
 
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