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FIXED Jenn Air JDR8895AAS Range - Low Burner Output

SeaDee

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Ctown
Model Number
JDR8895AAS
Brand
Jenn-Air
Age
6-10 years
We have an older Jenn Air stove that's begun to give us issues with output. The front two burner are the high output burners, but the flame is getting lower on both. The right front actually doesn't even have enough gas output to light with the igniter, and the left front burner has a noticeably lower flame. Beyond the visual output, both take much longer to boil water as well. The three other lower output burners seem unchanged.

In the last year or so, the range was removed and replaced to allow for kitchen remodel work. That said, I don't see any kinks or anything on the gas line that could be restricting flow. While out though, maybe some dust could have settled in the input?

Any suggestions on what to look for? To me, it seems like culprits could include a valve or regulator, or even just a clogged jet. Jet seems most likely but if that's the case I'm not sure how to get to it. I can see it through the top of the burner but the screws the hold the burner head down are are really corroded. Phillips head on those are either gone or will be with a twist of the screrdriver. Guessing the screws would just need to be drilled out.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Location
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....the screws the hold the burner head down are are really corroded.....the screws would just need to be drilled out.
If you're using natural gas (NAT) and only if you're using natural gas, temporarily bypass the gas regulator by connecting the gas line directly to the manifold and see if that makes a difference. There might be dust inside the regulator. If there's no change, I don't envy you my friend. The main top needs to come off to get to the orifices, either to clean or replace. Here's a valuable tip I learned after my second one, use a good left hand drill bit. As you're drilling the screw, the heat from the friction and the CCW direction of the drill bit, the sharp bit will grab the screw and unscrew it for you (most of the time).

Disconnect power before servicing. Remove surface burner control knobs by grasping knob and pulling straight upward.

Remove screws securing infinite switch bracket to maintop.

Remove screws securing burner assemblies to maintop.

Remove screws securing maintop to chassis. Screws are located in the front left and right corners with the upper oven door open.

Remove screws securing ground strap to chassis.

Raise and remove maintop from unit.Loosen and disconnect fittings securing surface burner tubing to burner assembly and manifold.
 

SeaDee

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Ctown
If you're using natural gas (NAT) and only if you're using natural gas, temporarily bypass the gas regulator by connecting the gas line directly to the manifold and see if that makes a difference....
We do have it connected to natural gas. If the regulator turns out to be the culprit, is that something that can be cleaned out or would dust inside the unit require replacement?

On the rest of the steps, assuming the regulator is not the culprit, it sounds like the entire stove top has to be removed to access the holder/orifice? These aren't setup in a way that the center brass orifice/jet is threaded and removable? Good option on the reverse drill bit. Thankfully I haven't had the need for one in years so I'd forgotten about those.
 

SeaDee

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Ctown
Thanks, got the ideas it was separately replaceable from a video of someone removing and cleaning out deposits in the orifice. It was a different stove, but the part itself looked fairly universal.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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but the part itself looked fairly universal.
Don't you believe it...lol. Here's the thing; If you take the burner out you can probably get the orifice out if you want to clean it but then you'll need to readjust it when you put it back in. On your model the igniter and orifice only come with the burner.
 

SeaDee

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Ctown
Two things I'm still trying to figure out before delving in too deep.

- If the regulator is found to be the issue, can it be cleaned and repaired or is it a replacement only piece?
- What size screw (diameter/pitch) holds the burner down? I'm guessing that it's the same size screw holding the valves and burner heads to the top plate. If I drill the ones out of the burner heads, don't know that I'll be able to find an equivalent at the hardware store.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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SeaDee

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Mar 12, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Ctown
So I'm trying to figure out how to bypass the regulator to test whether that may be the issue. The input to the regulator is 1/2" FIP but outlet side is a female 1/4" compression fitting. I can find a 1/2" to 1/4" reducer in black iron or galvanized pipe, but the threads are different and without a proper compression fitting on the reducer, I'll never get a proper/safe seal.

I'm not sure what the play is here.
 

rickgburton

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You'll need to pick up an adapter at one of the home centers. Usually you can take the fitting out of the regulator and if it has internal threads you can screw it on the manifold. This is a different size flare end but you get the idea
Gas adapter.jpg
 

SeaDee

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Mar 12, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Ctown
Worked with someone from the big box store to create a convertor that let me collect the gas line from the wall to the input line that connects to the outlet from the reservoir. Bypassing the regulator didn't make any difference on the flame height and didn't help the other front burner to start working.

Seems a good indicator the regulator is not the problem.
 

rickgburton

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to create a convertor that let me collect the gas line from the wall to the input line that connects to the outlet from the reservoir.
LOL .... I have no idea what that says or means. If the regulator is good, get the drill out...lol
 

SeaDee

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Ctown
Finally got around to removing the burner heads, and as expected the four screws on the two front burners wouldn't budge. Got the heads off with drilling but no way to remove those screws from the orifice holders. While I had the stove top off, pulled the orifices as well to see if there was any visible buildup. Didn't see anything.

So I'm going to have to replace the orifice holder to allow me get screws back in there, but I'm not thinking that's going to get our burners back to max output. So far inspected the regulator and the orifice heads and nothing doing. Only other part that could get clogged would be the valves. Is that realistically a potential issue?
 

SeaDee

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Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Ctown
Can they be removed and cleaned at all? Looks like only one of the two is available (16K/front left) and it's about $100. That's an expensive black box repair.
 

rickgburton

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When I was rebuilding appliances for resale I often got a gas range with stiff hard to turn knobs. Most valves can be taken apart and cleaned, regreased and installed without any problems. Not all valves are designed the same. Some have a spring and metal stop that need to go back together exactly how it came apart. Everything needs to be clean. Coat the grease on the barrel but try not to get any in the holes and use the right grease. Something like this:
grease.jpg
VALVE.jpg

There's two "O" rings that need to be replaced or they will leak. The manifold "O" ring on the valve and the screw "O" ring on the mounting screw.



 

SeaDee

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Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
23
Location
Ctown
Thanks for the insight. I'm going to focus on getting the burners themselves back to good again. This will be the next step.
 
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