FIXED Jenn-Air Range JDS9860AAP Buzzing Relay, very slow heating

[JimmyJimJim]

Model Number

JDS9860AAP

Brand

Jenn-Air

Age

More than 10 years

Hi.

So I had a buzzing relay along with heating slowly a few weeks ago so I ordered another one and put it in. The first time I did this it worked like a charm and has been going strong for about 6 years, but unfortunately, this time around the buzzing came back along with the stove heating very slowly again. I have the correct voltage coming in the stove and checked the bake element and broil element for continuity and correct ohms and all checked out. It's getting 40 Volts from the control board. My main question here involves the relay control board that sits just below the buzzing relay. The number for this relay board is 12001694. I've been searching like crazy trying to determine if this is the culprit. I've read that it only affects the downdraft, but I've also read it also controls the elements. Can someone clarify this for me? I've attached a picture of the relay board.

Thanks very much for any help you can provide.

 

[JimmyJimJim]

So I'm just looking at the tech sheet and it looks as though the board in the pictures above is only for the downdraft and has nothing to do with that buzzing relay above. I'll attach the tech sheet here. This thing has me baffled though. I've even replaced the control board on the front and it's doing the same thing. Hmm. Stupid question....when checking the bake element and broil element are they supposed to be 120 or 240 when heating? Right now they're only 120. The buzzing relay (T9ap5d52-24) is marked D.L.B relay. I'll attach a pic of that relay as well.

 

[Jake]

Here's the D.L.B. Relay for your model:
Relay WP74003482


Are both the bake and broil elements not coming on at all? You should be getting 240 volts at the Bake and Broil Elements.

If the broil element is not working either, I'd first ohm test your high-limit thermostat for continuity with a multimeter. Make sure the breaker is off before accessing it and ohm testing it, also remove at least one wire from it first before ohm testing it.

It should be located in the very back of your range, once you pull it out from the wall and remove the back access panel.

Here it is for your model in case you need to order it:
WP71001844 Thermostat


Here's the video to show you how to ohm test it for continuity:

Oven Won’t Heat? Thermal Fuse Test – Gas/Electric Oven Repair | Repair Clinic

Oven won’t heat? This video demonstrates how to test a thermal fuse on a gas or electric oven. Learn more from the experts at Repair Clinic.

www.anrdoezrs.net

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[JimmyJimJim]

Thanks for the reply Jake. I have the DLB relay so I'm good with that, unless I somehow burned it out. Good to know I'm supposed to be getting 240 volts for the Bake and Broil Elements..I'm only getting 120 volts. So they are technically working just not putting out enough volts. Great to know about that thermostat. I'll check that out when I get home tomorrow night---could that cause it to only put out 120volts? Thanks again.

 

[JimmyJimJim]

I checked the back for that thermostat and I can't find it anywhere. I'll check again tonight though....maybe it's on the side of the unit. I have a link below that I recorded this morning that shows the issue. Thanks-

 

[Jake]

What's the buzzing sound? Is that the new DBL relay you just replaced? Where did you get it at? It may be bad, let's test it with your multimeter:

Plug the range in and set the meter to read Volts AC. Connect one meter lead to the L1 (black wires) terminal where the power cord connects to the range. Touch the other meter lead to one of the red wires on the relay and then the other red wire. You should read 240 Volts AC both times. If the relay checks good you'll need to replace the control board (EOC).

You are correct, the small control board underneath is just for the downdraft fan motor, that's it.

Jake

 

[JimmyJimJim]

Thanks Jake for helping me with this. I really appreciate it.

So one wire connected to to the black terminal and one to red produced 250 volts. The other red wire (that splits) produced only 120 volts. I have a short 30 sec. video of what I did below for clarification.

I got the DBL relay from two different places. It wouldn't buzz at first but would eventually after about 15 min. or so. and I would end up with the same problem.

I get 40 volts coming to the relay from the control unit to the 2 black wires on the relay.

I have a fairly new control unit that I have in now (although it is old it's barely used). that I replaced last week.

The last time I had this problem, I replaced the buzzing relay with new and I was good to go----not this time.

Video below.

THANKS!

 

[Jake]

Hold on, let me ask Rick, I remember he made a diagram of this DBL relay testing procedure , but I can't find it and I want to make sure this is right.

Jake

 

[rickgburton]

I couldn't find any relay diagram for this machine. I made one for the evenheat dryer a while back. You're just getting old Jake. Your memory is playing tricks on you...LOL

I get 40 volts coming to the relay from the control unit to the 2 black wires on the relay.

That's why the the relay is buzzing. It's a 24 VDC coil. Measure the resistance of the coil (2 black wires). Check for approximately 575Ω. The double red wire is L2 common for both elements. The single red wire is L2 supply voltage. When the coil is energized, the magnetic field closes the contacts between the two red wires. So your board is bad because it's sending the wrong voltage to the DLB coil and you should recheck the DLB relay. The high voltage may have damaged it.

 

[JimmyJimJim]

Thanks guys. That would explain why the DLB relay would work for a bit and then quit on two of them I guess. I'll check this stuff tonight....When you say control board I assume you mean the control board on the front right? I have two of them--is it possible to get one fixed if I determine that is the source of the problem?
Thanks!

 

[rickgburton]

-is it possible to get one fixed if I determine that is the source of the problem?

Boards? There's a couple places that rebuild boards if that's what you mean.

 

[Jake]

Thanks Rick!

For this model they make 2 different clock oven control boards(yes, the clock oven control board in the front of your range) based on the serial number of your range.

What's the serial number of your range?

Jake

 

[JimmyJimJim]

Ok, so I get 553 ohms on the coil. I get roughly the same for both relays that I have.

It's looking like the control board I assume right?.

The voltage going to the coil in bake mode for this new (old) control board is 17.5 when read off the relay and roughly 16.5 when read on the relay.
(Note) when I initially read the voltage going to the coil with the other control board and got 44 volts I was reading it as AC....just to add to the confusion. So I really don't know what that was. Sorry!

Jake my Serial # is 17234314CR and I'm attaching a pic as well.

Making a donation now--thank you both!

 

[rickgburton]

The voltage going to the coil in bake mode for this new (old) control board is 17.5

That's not enough voltage but low voltage is more common than high voltage. That will also cause the relay to chatter. 7V can be in a pinched wire, almost broken wire. or bad connection Worth taking a close look at.

 

[JimmyJimJim]

Good to know...I'll see if I can test that tonight. what gauge wire should I get to test? Just have to verify where those black wires go.

 

[JimmyJimJim]

Hi Jake. Do you know what the link to my controller by chance. Just want to make sure I have the right one in case it’s not the wires.. Thanks!

 

[Jake]

Ok Jimmy,

Per your serial number, the part number for your control board is this one:

Range/Stove/Oven Oven Control Board - WP5760M302-60 | Fast Shipping - Repair Clinic

Buy Oven Control Board, Part #WP5760M302-60 with fast shipping! Our 365-day return policy guarantees you'll always get the right part!

www.anrdoezrs.net

Jake

 

[JimmyJimJim]

Thank you!

 

[Jake]

Is that one you have installed now? But yours was used?

If you don't have a pinched or broken wire and you want to keep this range, its best to buy the NEW control board.

Jake

 

[JimmyJimJim]

Hi Jake. The board was the original board so (used). I ended up getting a brand new control board, but it put out only 17.5 volts just like the board I have in there now. I did another check at the board and it put out the same amount. I also checked the voltage going to the board and it was 120. Still have a buzzing relay. This is nuts...but I'm going to get another relay delivered on Mon. and cross my fingers. Hopefully that will do the trick. Is there a way to find out if 24 volts is supposed to go to this relay? Right now I'm not sure how to make that happen. Thanks!