Jenn-Air Range JDS9860ACP oven not reaching full temperature - sometimes

[pjstock]

Model Number

JDS9860ACP

Brand

Jenn-Air

Age

More than 10 years

My oven sometimes - only sometimes - dose not get to the set temperature.
when I bake pizzas or bread I want the hightest possible temperature. 550 for pizzas, 475 for bread.
However, last night (Pizza night) for instance though set at 550 Convection Bake, it only hit 475 and that after a very long preheat time.
this morning however, just before writing the post, I tested it again and it raced to a full 550 very quickly.
similarly, in the past, I have set it at 475 for baking bread and it struggled to get to even 350 or 375.
the next day then too, I remember testing it and it hit full target temperature easily.

I would say that 95% of the time it prehats correctly. of course it is only when it doesn't that I notice and freak out.

what could be causing this intermitent failure to hit target temperature?

 

[Jake]

Hi Peter, possibly the oven sensor, you can ohm test it to make sure. Disconnector power to your range first.

It should read about 1050 to 1100 ohms at room temperature. You will need to pull the range out from the wall then UNPLUG IT, then remove the back access panel then you will see the connector that goes to it, it just unsnaps and pulls off.

Sometimes you can get lucky, and by taking the screws out from inside the oven where the oven sensor mounts, you may be able to pull the oven sensor wire through the hole and test it without pulling the range out from the wall.

Here's the oven sensor for your model:
Oven Sensor 12001656

Jake

 

[pjstock]

I'll test that. Thank you.
but should this sensor not be binary? WOrks / Doesn't WORK?
I cannot understand why the next morning the oven would zoom to top temperature.
but you all do not work in the world of hypotheticals or speculation. You are data driven.
so, I will test it and come back.

 

[Jake]

but should this sensor not be binary? WOrks / Doesn't WORK?

No, you have to ohm test it to make sure its within range.

Jake

 

[pjstock]

I get 1.08ohms (on the 20k scale)
what does that tell you?
and bizarrely, last night was Bread Baking Night and again, though set to 475 it didn't rise above 405. and that was at 1030 pm.
this morning at 8am when I tested it again, it fired right up to 475.
it always seems to fail in the evening and it always seems to work again the next morning.
Maybe our electric supply company is throttling back our power at nights. (and the weather is cool here so it's not like there is a heavy A/C demand on the system.)

 

[Jake]

1.08 or 1080 ohms?

Maybe our electric supply company is throttling back our power at nights. (and the weather is cool here so it's not like there is a heavy A/C demand on the system.)

That's very odd they would do that.

@jeff1 or @Dan O. might know, they live in Canada too.

Jake

 

[pjstock]

1080 ohms when on the 2000 scale.
So Yes I think that must be 1080ohms period

 

[Dan O.]

Maybe our electric supply company is throttling back our power at nights

I've never heard of such a thing and it wouldn't affect the temperature regardless. It would still heat to the set temperature, just take a bit longer to get there.


I have no idea what could cause intermittent temperature besides maybe the control malfunctioning.

Dan O.

 

[Jake]

Thanks Dan!

Yes, if you get 1080 ohms, then the oven sensor is good and the problem would be the control board.

Oven Control Board 5760M302-60


RepairClinic ships to Canada: https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/WP5760M302-60/1534555

Jake

 

[pjstock]

Happy New Year.
I am Back! as I am frustrated again.
I am trying to get the oven up to 475 for bread baking and it is again stalling at 300-315
I wonder if one of the elements was bad. not knowing how to test if they were both hot without injuring myself, I touched a piece of bread to each of them
the top element singed the bread.
the lower element did not. and with my finger wet, I could tap the lower element without burning myself.
I think it is basically contributing nothing.

what would I test? Ohms test the suspect element?
and if that test okay.... how would I test that power is getting to those terminals? Power On and multi meter the terminals with the element removed?

 

[pjstock]

I resistance tested the element and it is Good. (0 reading)
next?
test that I am getting 220v at the terminals?

 

[pjstock]

I tested the Bake terminals this morning and I got 240v
BUT then I promptly shorted everything out and welded the element tab to the oven chassis (don't ask any more questions. I feel stupid enough)
I was able to chip out the welded bit but broke off half the Male tab on the element (I replaced the female tab on the cable)
So now I have to either weld or silver solder a replacement Male tab onto the element or find another replacement element.
Stand by. the saga continues

 

[pjstock]

What determines whether a replacement bake element will work? besides making sure the arms of the replacement element fit the power connectors,
this one has connections 18" apart.
I see plenty of universal replacement bake elements that look like they would fit.
should they work?

 

[Jake]

Happy New Year!

I resistance tested the element and it is Good. (0 reading)

0 to 50 ohms means its good, correct.

So what I do next is check for 240 volts across the bake element, meaning put both meter probes on both bake element terminals at the same time and see if your meter reads 240 volts.

Also ohm test your high-limit thermostat for continuity with your multimeter. Make sure the breaker is off before accessing it and ohm testing it, also remove at least one wire from it first before ohm testing it.

It should be located in the very back of your range, once you pull it out from the wall and remove the back access panel.

Here it is for your model in case you need to order it:
WP71001844 Thermostat


Here's the video to show you how to ohm test it for continuity:

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[pjstock]

while I look for more permanent solutions (either welding a new Male tip onto that element i busted Or just getting a replacement element)
last night I dreamt up (literally, in a dream last night) a temporary fix.
I ground down the stubby element post to a thinner flat blade-like tip, opened up and crushed in a bit the female connector so they friction fit.
and Voila! it works

set to 450 the element glowed red hot and in 4 minutes the oven was up to full temperature.|
but if you will recall I often had this same result - wouldn't get to temperature at night and then the next morning it would work fine and race to full temperature.
(Maybe this oven is just a Morning person.)
though I will do some more tests throughout the day and week (especially at night when it has so often let me down) and see if it reliably heats up.
Maybe there was a bad connection at one of the terminals. If memory serves I think I did replace this element a year or so ago. Maybe I didn't clip the male and female securely together then and that flimsy connection was unreliable.
I'll report what I find,

 

[Jake]

Here's the bake element for your model:
Oven Bake Element WP74010750


RepairClinic ships to Canada: https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Bake-Element/WP74010750/1184162

while I look for more permanent solutions (either welding a new Male tip onto that element i busted Or just getting a replacement element)
last night I dreamt up (literally, in a dream last night) a temporary fix.
I ground down the stubby element post to a thinner flat blade-like tip, opened up and crushed in a bit the female connector so they friction fit.
and Voila! it works

Good job.

set to 450 the element glowed red hot and in 4 minutes the oven was up to full temperature.|
but if you will recall I often had this same result - wouldn't get to temperature at night and then the next morning it would work fine and race to full temperature.
(Maybe this oven is just a Morning person.)
though I will do some more tests throughout the day and week (especially at night when it has so often let me down) and see if it reliably heats up.
Maybe there was a bad connection at one of the terminals. If memory serves I think I did replace this element a year or so ago. Maybe I didn't clip the male and female securely together then and that flimsy connection was unreliable.
I'll report what I find,

Maybe there was a bad connection at one of the terminals. If memory serves I think I did replace this element a year or so ago. Maybe I didn't clip the male and female securely together then and that flimsy connection was unreliable.

That sounds logical to me too.