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FIXED Jenn-air range SVD48600P oven not heating problem

bob@oncallnetwo

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Carrboro NC
Model Number
SVD48600P
Brand
Jenn-Air
Age
More than 10 years
I have an SVD48600P that generally fails to heat with either the top or bottom elements, on regular or convection modes. When setting a temp or mode, it will flash the heading mode notification for about 15 seconds and then the light stops flashing and about 15 seconds, later, it shows -F5-. This generally happens with convection, bake, convection roast, bake or broil. The door hinge springs failed and I replaced both hinges and it tends to come to rest about a half inch from fully closing, so that if you pull out the door slightly the convect fan will stop and if you push it in slightly it will start and remain running.



Today, when I went to observe the failure behavior to report it here,5, it stated up and is heating OK. It had failed twice on convect bane and then when I went to observe the behavior on bake mode, it started heating without incident. This is very unusual: sometimes trying the same thing over and over, hoping for if not expecting a different result will actually get a different result. by endlessly retrying it. It has never stopped once started.

About six months ago a pizza stone on the floor of the open touched the bake element and caused it to fail, essentially shorting it internally and nearly breaking in two places. I replaced the lower element and this control unit failure behavior started about a month after replacing the lower element. I don’t remember where I bought the element from but it was some legit place with FSP parts.


So I don’t know what to do: I don’t have a repair or troubleshooting guide and I don’t know where the secondary boards are in this thing. I was inclined to replace the main touch panel but I understand that this may not be the cause of the problem and even if was bad, there are two other boards that could be part of or the cause of the problem.

In the other SVD48600P thread one of you mention getting relay boards but I don’t know where in the stove they are and whether they can be replaced without pulling the oven out from the wall. I’m no longer in the shape to do that if that is required.

Advice?

I was thinking of sending in the front panel for repair but I don’t know of anyone that would test one to see if it is the cause of the problem.


Any repair organizations with the info and skill to fix this?
 

bob@oncallnetwo

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Carrboro NC
i just got an email from a repair shop that said that they didn't think my issue was the main control unit. They sent me this troubleshooting info they said might be useful
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
136,041
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
That's the wrong tech. data sheet for your model you attached. The oven sensor is inside the oven, but you have to pull the range out from the wall, then unplug it, then you can get to it and the oven relay board.

Here's the correct one: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz...=sharing&resourcekey=0-Ek1oLOn1v9B2lLEDAhuT9g Look on page 1-6.

Screenshot 2022-09-17 07.15.22.png


I mentioned what to check in this thread:

F5 error is power to the element relays was disabled/interrupted. Disconnect power to the range, Check for any loose wire connections on the power board. Check for any pinched or broken wires. Check the oven sensor connector on the board. Check the oven sensor with a multimeter.

At room temperature the oven sensor should measure about 1100 ohms.

Here's the oven sensor for your model:
Temperature Sensor 12001656



Let us know what you find.

If your oven sensor ohm tests good, then its your relay board you will need to replace. You need this relay board: 12001690 Board, Relay W/shield

But its no longer Available for your model.

Pull your range out from the wall, then unplug it. Its located in the very back of your range, behind the back access panel.

You oven sensor connector is in the very back of your range too, just disconnect it and ohm test it, make sure you keep the range unplugged when ohm testing it.

Jake
 

bob@oncallnetwo

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Carrboro NC
my question is how come it sometimes works, and when it doesn't work, trying it over and over will make it works at some point. That kind of flies in the face of a part failure theory, doesn't it? I gather there 4 possible theories, depending on who you ask? a relay board, a thermistor, ,a control board or a loose wire.

I cant move the unit form the wall by myself as the downdraft would have to be moved first sand I am not well enough to do that but I can remove the front panel but you don't think that's it. I'm guessing that it isn't the sensor as it will work if you try enough times. but maybe that theory is wrong. what would you have me do? your advices is to pull the unit and check the parts on the rear panel?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
136,041
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
my question is how come it sometimes works, and when it doesn't work, trying it over and over will make it works at some point. That kind of flies in the face of a part failure theory, doesn't it?
Nope, Because its a Intermittent problem.

I cant move the unit form the wall by myself as the downdraft would have to be moved first sand I am not well enough to do that but I can remove the front panel but you don't think that's it. I'm guessing that it isn't the sensor as it will work if you try enough times. but maybe that theory is wrong. what would you have me do? your advices is to pull the unit and check the parts on the rear panel?
See if a friend or relative can help you move it.

Look for any burnt spots on that control board.

Disconnect power to the range first!

Jake
 

bob@oncallnetwo

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Carrboro NC
Thank you for your help and patience.

I had the control board repaired at Circuit Board Medics with the same day surcharge. I sent it out out on Wednesday and got it back and installed on Friday, and the stove works correctly now.

I have one remaining question:

I replaced the door hinges, both of which had broken off internally. I don't have the order for details but I recall that I'd found a pair of hinges that look like the originals.

They appear to be the original (part 18 on the attached picture, item # 71002792)

However, they seem to prevent the door form closing fully, keeping the door open a little under a half inch, not quite seating. If you push gently on the door it will close enough for the internal convection fan to turn on.

Is there an adjustment on either the internal parts or in the stove?
 

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Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
136,041
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
I had the control board repaired at Circuit Board Medics with the same day surcharge. I sent it out out on Wednesday and got it back and installed on Friday, and the stove works correctly now.
Excellent, glad to hear that.(y)

I replaced the door hinges, both of which had broken off internally. I don't have the order for details but I recall that I'd found a pair of hinges that look like the originals.

They appear to be the original (part 18 on the attached picture, item # 71002792)

However, they seem to prevent the door form closing fully, keeping the door open a little under a half inch, not quite seating. If you push gently on the door it will close enough for the internal convection fan to turn on.

Is there an adjustment on either the internal parts or in the stove?
They are likely aftermarket door hinges and they will not work properly, because the manufacturer has replaced part number 71002792 with part number WP71003353

You should have a email receipt of where you got them from?

Jake
 
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