FIXED JP328WFWW GE 30" Coil Cooktop Suddenly Died - HELP!

[GoodGuy1]

Model Number

JP328WFWW

Brand

GE

Age

More than 10 years

My GE® 30" BUILT-IN ELECTRIC COOKTOP, MODEL JP328WFWW, suddenly stopped working (went to cook breakfast) and none of the burners worked, nor did the "burner on/hot surface/indicator light". I cooked on it one night and the next morning - nothing! These are the steps I took to troubleshoot:

1) Yes, I did go and check the breaker - it had not tripped.

2) It's hard-wired, so I got out my no-contact tester to check for power in the junction box in the cabinet under the cooktop: there's power coming into the box from the breaker panel and there's power leaving the box to the cooktop.

3) I then turned off the breaker, lifted and propped open the top, and unscrewed and turned over the box covering the burner/infinite switches. After turning the breaker back on, I used the no-contact tester and found that there is power coming into the switch cover and power going out to all four burners and through the indicator light.

4) None of the coils tips are corroded/pitted or anything that resembles a reason to short out. No melting/corrosion on the jacks where the coils connect. No blackened/burnt/browned/singed connectors.

I am completely stumped. I have included a few pictures which I hope will help (sorry about the terrible text - I'm no good at drawing with my finger on the touchpad!

 

[rickgburton]

so I got out my no-contact tester

The problem with a "no-contact" tester is it doesn't tell you how much voltage is actually there. Use a DMM and check for 220 VAC across the red wire and the black wire on this switch:

 

[GoodGuy1]

Thank you for the prompt reply! Pulled out the multimeter and checked the voltage 3 times where you indicated: it measured between 125 - 131 VAC.

 

[rickgburton]

Access your circuit breaker for the cook top and check for 220 VAC across both wires on the circuit breaker (double 40 amp breaker)

 

[GoodGuy1]

Access your circuit breaker for the cook top and check for 220 VAC across both wires on the circuit breaker (double 40 amp breaker)

I'm no electrician - should I "access" the circuit breaker? How would I do that?

 

[rickgburton]

It's easy. Take the front panel off the breakers. There's probably two screws and it lifts off. Take a picture of your circuit breakers and post it here. I'll tell you how.

 

[GoodGuy1]

It's easy. Take the front panel off the breakers. There's probably two screws and it lifts off. Take a picture of your circuit breakers and post it here. I'll tell you how.

Thank you for the guidance! After reading your post regarding the breaker panel, I got to thinking . . . I have a problem with my clothes dryer, too . . . that stared happening at the same time as the cooktop . . . it too, stopped working, but in the middle of a drying cycle, and guess what - no tripped breaker. Used the no contact meter again on the dryer's outlet and there's power coming from the outlet. The cord is fine because there's power at the terminal block. I looked on the internet (please, stop laughing!) and tested the switch and the timer, which if I did things right, tested fine. I was about to move on to the thermal fuse, but don't know where it is, and then this post and your replies. More thinking . . . the dryer and the cooktop share breakers . . . maybe, just maybe . . . see the pictures.

To test the dryer outlet, red goes where, left or right (note: the picture is NOT upside down - this is the way the outlet is mounted)? Or might the entire issue be resolved at the breaker?

 

[rickgburton]

 

[GoodGuy1]

Hi, Rick:
I removed the breaker panel cover. Here is the picture of the uncovered dryer and cooktop breakers. Looks like they are double 30 amp breakers, not double 40 amp breakers. Point out where to test as you stated above.

I've also included another picture of the dryer outlet for my own clarification.

 

[rickgburton]

That doesn't make sense to me. One double breaker should be for the cooktop and the other for the dryer. You should have 220 VAC across the top red and black and 220 VAC across the bottom red and black. That looks like two double breakers connected together. You may need to call an electrician.

 

[GoodGuy1]

That doesn't make sense to me. One double breaker should be for the cooktop and the other for the dryer. You should have 220 VAC across the top red and black and 220 VAC across the bottom red and black. That looks like two double breakers connected together. You may need to call an electrician.

Based on the way the was the breakers are wired and switched (top and bottom for the dryer, two middle for the cooktop), I tested/measured the voltage with the DMM and found 93 VAC on both the dryer and the cooktop (see the attached photo with remarks).

 

[rickgburton]

Here's your test points:

 

[GoodGuy1]

Hi, Rick:

Again, thank you for your help with this issue. Those are the points I checked, taking my cues from which switches were connected (as seen on the right side of the photo). That's where I got the two 93 VAC readings, not 220 VAC. Time to call in the electrician?

 

[rickgburton]

Time to call in the electrician?

Yes

 

[GoodGuy1]

Hi, Rick:

Sorry about just responding.

Well, the electrician came. At some point years ago, water somehow infiltrated the house alongside the service line and leaked into the breaker box causing rust and corrosion along the connection between the bus bar and breaker (see pictures - sorry, I don't have a picture of the bus bar), which over time, built up and preventing the proper current flow. (There's no active leak now - a few year ago, we had new siding installed and the point of entry was properly sealed.) The electrician installed two new breakers, one at the top/left and one at the bottom left, separating the dryer and the cooktop. Problem solved! Thanks for the step-by-step breakdown and explanation - you saved the cost of an appliance service call that would not have solved the real problem. DONATION FORTHCOMING!

 

[rickgburton]

Thanks for the update!