• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake

FIXED JVM1950DR1BB Magnetron buzzed with door closed, now there is no heating.

dougtaylor1

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
8
Location
arizona
Model Number
JVM1950DR1BB
Brand
GE
Age
6-10 years
Magnetron buzzed with door closed, now everything seems normal, except there is no heating.

Just before Christmas the microwave started to buzz when the door was closed. We continued to use it as normal but left the door open when not in use and had to watch the timer so that the food would not over heat after the time expired and the fan and turntable stopped. I also noticed that if I turned the power saver button off that the Magnetron would come on.

Now when the door is closed it doesn't buzz and everything seems to be normal with the timer and everything, but nothing heats so the Magnetron must not be working. Please help!

I bought it about 5-6 years ago for about $500
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
100,741
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi Doug,

I'll see if Rick can assist you.

Jake
 

dougtaylor1

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
8
Location
arizona
Hi Rick, I replaced the board and that did not help. Currently everything works except the light inside the microwave doesn't come on when the unit is running or when the door is open and there is no heat.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
34,066
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
OK, does the timer count down but just no heat? Check the door switches for continuity then check for 120 VAC going to the primary side of the transformer. Be sure to check the door switches by opening and closing the door.
 

dougtaylor1

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
8
Location
arizona
Right. The timer counts down with no heat and no light inside microwave. I will look for youtube videos on checking the door switches and the 120 going to the transformer.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Just remove the control panel so you can access the door switches. Then remove the common wire from the switch. Put one test lead on the common terminal and the other test lead on one of the other terminals and open and close the door. Your meter should indicate either open or closed and the just the opposite when the door is open.
C-Microswitch.jpg
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
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Messages
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Looking at a wire diagram for a similar model the problem is going to be one of the TCO's. Check the cavity TCO and the TCO on the mag (magnetron) tube for continuity. Most likely one will be open.

Cavity TCO:
Thermostat WB20X10060
Thermostat-WB20X10060--01809067.jpg

Mag tube TCO:
Thermoprotector WB27X11095
Thermoprotector-WB27X11095--01723424.jpg

Click on the links for a repair video.
 

dougtaylor1

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
8
Location
arizona
The Cavity TCO was ok. Before pulling the microwave out I checked the two fuses in the front and the top fuse was burnt out. I replaced it and everything worked but the light. I pulled the light and it was burnt out, probably from leaving the door open during the time that the magnetron was coming on with the door open. I guess I will just leave the new board in since even though changing it didn't seem to fix anything, maybe the old one is what caused the magnetron to stay on when the door was closed and the fuse to burn out.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
34,066
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The control board was the original problem and caused the TCO to open because the mag tube was on, you're correct. If you replaced just the TCO you would still have the same problem.
 
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