• ** REMEMBER! **The microwave can still shock you even unplugged!!

    ALWAYS discharge the high-voltage capacitor first if you even think your hands will come close to any HIGH VOLTAGE components.

    Jeff mentions this: Anything in the high voltage ( magnetron, capacitor, diode, wires to and from ):
    ...Use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

    From Jeff's site: http://www.applianceaid.com/component-testing.php

    Jake

JVM7195RF1SS Stopped working -- Thermal Fuse?

woodcycl

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Feb 9, 2012
Messages
18
Location
Indiana
Model Number
JVM7195RF1SS
Brand
GE
Age
1-5 years
Less than 4 year old microwave. Never any issues. Placed a meal inside. Closed Door. Pressed 3 key to begin a 3 minute heating. Came on for a split second, made a popping sound, and all power went out. Checked main house fuse and ensured unplugged and plugged back in. Nothing.

So, do I need to order and replace the TCO-Magnetron / Thermoprotector WB27X11095 fuse? I found the item on RepairClinic and AppliancePartsPros. But, not sure if this is the problem or not.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Brian
 

woodcycl

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Location
Indiana
Thanks Jake. Sounds like, to be on the safe side, I need to have all 3 parts available and replace all of them at the same time.
 

Jake

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Wouldn't be a bad idea, let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

woodcycl

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Indiana
[FONT=&quot]I ordered both Door Switches and the Capacitor / Transformer. Hoping it is one of the door switches so I can return the other more expensive capacitor/transformer.[/FONT]
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good, keep us posted.:)

Jake
 

woodcycl

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Indiana
I learned that this microwave has 3 switches in the door and not only 2 so only able to replace two of them. No power. Removed from wall and replaced capacitor/transformer. Still no power. Now, I assume I can keep the microwave mostly dismantled to test it correct?

Two door switches replaced and door closed. capacitor/transformer replaced and cables re-inserted, but cabinet off, etc. I plug it in to a known good outlet and simply nothing happens. No LCD panel, etc. What do I do now?

The microwave is only 4yrs old, I hate to scrap it. Also, should I remove all the new parts and send back for refund? If not, I'll eventually spend enough $ on parts to have bought a new microwave (This one was $359).
 

Jake

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Hold tight, I will ask Rick.

Jake
 

rickgburton

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Most likely one or both 20 amp ceramic fuses is open (blown) on the noise filter. Use a meter to check them for continuity. If a fuse is open you'll need to check the door microswitches for continuity by opening and closing the door. The monitor switch, also called a "deadman" switch, is a Normally Closed microswitch. It's designed to keep the microwave from operating with the door open by shorting L1 to Neutral. If that switch is bad or if the latch bracket is out of adjustment, when you press start, a direct short will blow the fuse. That's why you want to check the door switches before you replace the fuse or buy a hand full of extras. The two fuses on the noise filter are available at any of the home centers or Walmart and look like this:
Snapshot_8.jpg

R-Microswitches.jpg
 

Jake

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Thanks Rick!

Jake
 

woodcycl

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Messages
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Location
Indiana
Most likely one or both 20 amp ceramic fuses is open (blown) on the noise filter. Use a meter to check them for continuity. If a fuse is open you'll need to check the door microswitches for continuity by opening and closing the door. The monitor switch, also called a "deadman" switch, is a Normally Closed microswitch. It's designed to keep the microwave from operating with the door open by shorting L1 to Neutral. If that switch is bad or if the latch bracket is out of adjustment, when you press start, a direct short will blow the fuse. That's why you want to check the door switches before you replace the fuse or buy a hand full of extras. The two fuses on the noise filter are available at any of the home centers or Walmart and look like this:
View attachment 42565

View attachment 42566
Thanks Rick. I'll pickup a handful of fuses and go from there. I'll update ticket. Going to try and return the Capacitor for refund.
 

woodcycl

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Location
Indiana
I'm thoroughly confused since my door has 3 switches. Two of the switches I replaced. Both of these are the Normally Open switches. When I test these outside the microwave (unplugged) w/ the button pressed, I see 0.00 to 0.01 to 0.02 and that's it. When button not pushed in, meter shows 0L. However on the gray colored Normally Closed switch, the meter ranges from 0.00 to double digits and varies every few seconds when button not pushed. When button pushed, I see the 0L. So, does this mean the gray colored NC switch is bad? By the way, the meter shows 0.00 for both ceramic fuses so they seem fine.

Edited to Add: Apparently, I purchased one door switch and one monitor switch. So, I'm even more confused than before. So, the switch in the photos is the new one?!

See photos for door switch that is NC. Thoughts?

20190401_200311.jpg20190401_200323.jpg20190401_200326.jpg20190401_200328.jpg
 
Last edited:

woodcycl

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I tested all 3 switches with MM

Test #1
Door Switch #1 (NO): Meter w/ button pressed stays 0.2
Door Switch #2 (NO): Meter w/ button pressed varies constantly from 0.0 to double-digits
Monitor Switch (NC): Meter w/o button pressed varies constantly form 0.0 to double-digits

Test #2
Both Door switches showed 0.00 to 0.2
Monitor Switch: showed 0.1 consistently

So, not sure if I trust. I used two different Mutlimeters (new one and 5 yrs old one) on the test #2 with same results.

Starting to think the switches are working fine.

I can no longer determine which Door Switch was replaced unfortunately!

Hope this info is helpful. Thoughts?
 
Last edited:

woodcycl

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Messages
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Location
Indiana
Again ... there is NO Power showing anywhere. No display, no fans, no anything. Capacitor appears fine and switches appear fine after 2nd test. Ceramic fuses also seem fine (show 0.00 on MM)
 

rickgburton

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OK, don't check the microswitches out of the latch bracket. When you put the tips of the leads in the holes on switch terminals it moves the contacts and you'll get erroneous readings. Check the switches with the wires removed, by opening and closing the door. Remove the fuses to check them. Measure the voltage on both sides of the fuses (120 VAC). Check for 120 VAC at the power relay on the main control board. If you can post a copy of your wiring diagram I can tell you where to check.
 
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