FIXED KDPM354GPS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher clicking and constant spinning - Rehabbed and can’t win

[MrJm]

Model Number

KDPM354GPS0

Brand

KitchenAid

Age

1-5 years

Hello!

I’m at my wits end. My 3.5 year old machine hasn’t worked correctly in many months so I decided to fix what I thought was wrong.

Purchased new: motor/pump, assembly, drain pump, heating element, vent fan, inlet valve..

Upon disassembly, found the motor filter was completely wrecked.. fine stainless mesh ripped apart and plastic deformed. Surprised it still spun… SO off to local parts store to pick up a new one.

Reassembled, then thought all was well…

Motor was making groaning noises. Ahh, diverter valve.

Ordered, installed… leaked, rubber bushing didn’t fit snug so wrapped in Teflon tape as some here have done.

Then observed the clicking and constant spinning.

Any ideas why this is happening? Wiring to unit? What controls this?

Thanks so much!

 

[Jake]

Then observed the clicking and constant spinning.

From the diverter motor?
W10537869 Diverter Motor


Does the diverter disc look worn out(wallowed out in the middle) where the diverter motor shaft connects to it?

Watch this video below.

Here's the diverter disc(aka diffuser):
Diffuser WPW10476221

 

[MrJm]

To clarify, I observed the diverter valve shaft, spinning from underneath the machine… With a flashlight I could see and feel that it was spinning clockwise constantly… and clicking. Like it’s not being told where to stop. It looks like there are 4 positions for the flow, if you include the “blank” spot. I’m at a loss.

 

[MrJm]

The diverter disc does not look worn out in the middle… It has the little positioning notch and makes a good connection with the shaft.

 

[Jake]

I'm attaching the tech. data sheet below, Page 14--->Service Error Codes Table

See if you get error code 9-1 Diverter Cant find Position or 9-2 Diverter Stuck On.

The control board controls the diverter motor.

Here's the control board for your model: Cntrl-Elec W11341633

Check your owners manual warranty, most KitchenAid models have a 5 yr. warranty on the control board.

 

[MrJm]

Thanks Jake. I initiated the diagnostic cycle and the diverter valve spun/rotated clockwise and made that clicking noise every couple of seconds the entire time. At the end of the cycle it showed E1 F3 F9. I’m not sure what that means, as I don’t see that on the sheet.. could be missing it. But it sure seems like the control board may be the thing at the center of this issues screwing everything up and causing the machine to fail on multiple levels.

 

[Jake]

F9 E1 is Diverter Cant find Position, do what it mentions to do in the tech. data sheet for that that on page 19.

 

[MrJm]

Thanks for the tip about the control board 5 yr. warranty. After several 45 min on-hold calls with Whirlpool, I finally got through and they’re sending me the control board under warranty. I’ll let you know how it works next week.

 

[Jake]

Ok, sounds good. Yes, keep us posted.

 

[MrJm]

Well, after pulling off the door panel I found evidence of overheated wires, and arcing of two wires which burned all the way through… I spliced them back together and re-assembled. With fingers crossed, I powered the machine back up while watching for smoke.. it started fine and the diverter valve no longer spins aimlessly, rather it stops at what I hope are the normal intervals. Welp, learning experience with this here machine. I’m curious what caused the wires to break. They weren’t at a pivot point or anything.

 

[Jake]

Good find!

That is interesting, I've never seen those wires burn there before.

I really don't know what would cause that, unless the door panel black insulation was too hot, do you use the extra heat option on any cycles?

 

[MrJm]

I don’t normally use the extra heat option, but I’ve tried in the past. I wonder if overheated. I know the fan worked intermittently for a while.. then started washing poorly.. so possibly a component failed which increased the load on wires.. so far so good, 4 loads in.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Jake]

Here's the blower motor for your model below, when you click the part link to it, you will see a video that shows you where it is.

Blower Motor W11228135


You should be getting 115 volts to it when it should be running.

so far so good, 4 loads in.

Sounds good, thanks for the update.

 

[MrJm]

Yep, I replaced that blower motor and it’s running good, at the end of the dry cycle. Hopefully now we can get several more years service out of this bugger…

 

[MrJm]

Here are some shots of the internal filter that was destroyed.

 

[Jake]

Yes, your pump filter is in very bad shape, one of the worst I've seen.

On these models there has been a problem with the pump filter breaking and jamming up the wash motor.

Mike took lots of photos and documented them here too:

FIXED - KDTM354ESS3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Motor is buzzing

I'm not sure if anyone is still having issues with this, but it's basically a 100$ fix (CAD)... or at least it was for me... if the motor is buzzing it likely means that it is TRYING to spin but it's jammed. ... I opened up my dishwasher and found the filter inside the main pump had blown...

www.applianceblog.com

Here's that pump filter for your model, in case others need it too:
Pump Filter W11084156


If not in-stock at RepairClinic, It's also here: W11084156

Here's the wash motor for your model that comes with the pump filter already installed for you, in case others need it too:
Circulation Pump W10902589


If not in-stock at RepairClinic, its also here: Circulation Pump W10902589

Here's the video: